EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

Post photos of your pride and joy, or updates on your rebuild!

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Finny
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Post by Finny »

oldnek wrote:Will that grey motor fit inside your garbage bin Finny :lol: :lol: :lol:
Go to see progress, Mate....
The garbo's should never notice, they don't open the bags.

I hope so........ I hide my dead animals inside it. Or sometimes it just sounds that way. :shock: :lol: :lol:
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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Finny
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Post by Finny »

My how time flies when your having fun. :lol: :lol:

Just realised that I have passed my first anniversary. :shock: :shock:

It's been 12 months since I started my quick job of getting the Wagon back on the road. Seems like I've done an awful lot, but to look at it haven't actually got too far.
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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Finny
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Post by Finny »

Installed new kits into both the Brake and Clutch master cylinders.
Went to bleed the clutch and brakes this afternoon. :D
Isn't it a great place they put the bleed valve on the clutch ? :cry: :evil:
Couldn't actually see the bleed valve, but could feel it. 3/8 AF ring spanner fits the bleedvalve on the booster and the extra clutch slave cylinder I had, so I assumed it would fit the slave on the car.
After twisting and trying several angles, I found the answer.
NO :evil: :evil: :evil: :twisted:
And 7/16 was too big..........
Ended up disconnecting the slave and pulled it out completely so I could see why I could get the spanner on it. It's a 10mm one ???? Go figure. It looks like it has been replaced previously.
I can now add clutch slave cylinder to my list on items.

Got the brakes bled to the booster, will try to get the actual wheels bled tomorrow, and the clutch.


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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Finny
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:30 pm
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Post by Finny »

Thanks Tim, and if you have a disc front end throw in a 11mm for the bleeders on those. :shock: :shock:

OK. This looks much better.Nice clean fluids and no leaks anywhere.
And I can drive it and stop it. So I took it for a little outing to check everthing was working.
She really wanted to go around the block, but we didn't

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But I am still having an issue with engine revs. I'll post that under a separate topic
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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Finny
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Post by Finny »

The latest challenge was the difficulty in getting the motor to rev without stalling. :cry: :cry:

After swapping the carby for other units and trying different things, still having issues, even worse. So I have decided to put a kit through the carby.

All stripped down and ready to clean and rebuild.
So many little parts to remember where they came from, and not loose !! :shock: :shock:
PS:- I can remove and/or install a carby in less than 3 minutes (Have done it about 6 times now). This is my 2nd carby breakdown, wonder how quick it will be in the end ? :shock: :shock:

The only thing I haven't been able to get out is the "Main discharge Jet" which uses a special tool, although I'm going to make one up from a tube of metal.
The actual tool is a pointed thing, although mine will go over the top, a "D" shape with both sides straight.
It does just unscrew normally, doesn't it ? ???? :?: :?:

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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
ben
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Post by ben »

Finny i always drop of the main body to a carby shop for cleaning. It costs next to nothing, comes back looking brand new, and you can be pritty sure there is no crap left in any little galleries. Also make sure the mounting face at the base of the main body is flat, it can worp being alloy and over tighened. Some wet-n-dry on a sheet of glass gets it flat
Finny
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Post by Finny »

Carby has been stripped down, cleaned out, new kit put in and rebuilt again. :D :D :D
Had to make my own tools for removing the main jet.
At the bottom of the first picture. Use steel dowl, filed it down to fit into the hole and cut a notch out of the middle to go over the jet.
Took a while to make but worked beautifully.

Will re-install and see what happens. :? :?

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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
blue jackett
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Post by blue jackett »

carby,s like a bought one well done finny
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Sputzwagon
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Post by Sputzwagon »

Nice job Finny.
I used to be able to do a carby kit in my sleep! But it seems that the older I get the thicker my fingers get! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Scotty.
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FB MAD
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Post by FB MAD »

Doing a good job there Finny with the carby rebuild.Just make sure you blow out all the jets and fuel passages with air compressor and blow gun and I'm pretty sure with the new rebuild kit installed you will fix up your engine rev hesitation problem.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Finny
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Post by Finny »

Thanks guys.

The hardest part was getting the clip that holds the float in place back on.

Yes fired up the compressor and blew out everything and then checked that everything was clear. :D :D Every little hole, several times. :D :D

I did notice that the original "pump piston" was very dirty and gritty.
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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
FB MAD
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Post by FB MAD »

:roll:

"I did notice that the original "pump piston" was very dirty and gritty."



:roll: I'd say that was most likely the major part of the problem originally.

Yes that bloody clip that holds the float pivot pin in is a bloody pain in the arse to get back in :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Trev
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Post by Trev »

Just put a kit through the 2 carbs i got off Terry and one of the pistons was totally eroded, I was glad I went to the trouble of doing it :D , Trev 8) .
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Finny
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Post by Finny »

Put the Carbi back in and decided to do a static time first. :shock:
Has been 20 years since I did this. Damn.............

OK. so the process is.

Turn the motor until you align the timing mark with the imbeded ball baring. The cover is just behind the dissy.

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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Finny
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Post by Finny »

Didn't quite finish.
Then check that the rotor is pointing towards number one cylinder in the distributor. If it is pointing towards Number 6, keep turning the motor by hand until it points ttowards Number 1.

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This is the Number 1 lead position, almost at right angle o the engine.
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Loosen off the lock nut at the base of the distributor. The points should be close to the high point on the central lobe, at or almost at opening.
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Put a test light on the negative of the coil and turn the distributor until it lights up.
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Lock down the bolt on the distributor, and it should be timed correctly.
Last edited by Finny on Sun May 24, 2009 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
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