fbekholden.com

Nice work. Love the socket dolly!
You are doing some great work here: thanks for sharing.
My understanding is like yours: deoxidine is a pre-paint clean metal treatment and of no use as a flaky rust converter. Something like Rustbuster, or any of the rust converters or Penitrol Rust Treatment (which I can't buy anywhere) will treat flaky rust and leave a pritective coating. POR15 will stem surface rust growth too, but not flaky crusty rust. I've been trying to get some Penitrol to coat bits behind pressings and to go into where the folds are but just can't find any one selling it. Will probably spray in POR and hope for the best.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Nice work indeed Scotty. Any loose material including flaking rust must be removed. If you have solid bits that are too hard to remove then you can convert to iron phosphate which is basically what deoxedine does, or so I believe. Bondall Ranex us such a product and seems very similar to deoxedine. A bit cheaper and available at Bunnings.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Better check for yourself Scott, but I'm confident that you cannot successfully use deoxidine to control rust in areas that you are not painting or sealing within 4 hours. It will not work as a spray in the hole rust solution, not the least because if you do not neutralise it the acid will keep working away. No more from me on this.

Scotty,

Both Deoxidine and Ranex Rust Converter are phosphoric acid-based products. Both appear to me to have wetting agents, but I don't know what concentration of H3PO4 is in both. I have used rust converter as a substitute for Deoxidine, and it appears to work just as well as Deoxidine in that application. But the instructions for rust converter say to brush the product onto rusty surfaces and leave up to 24 hours to allow the tough coating to form.

I'm not short of rusty Holden offcuts a.t.m., so maybe I can put my "experimental inorganic chemist" propellor-head cap on and see what happens when I use Deoxidine like rust converter.

Rob

Won't touch clean metal only oxidized. Therefore won't protect clean metal, and only recommended to paint over with enamel. So yes get it off before paint.

Metalfix is another product which converts and protects and can be painted over with acrylic at least, or left as an under car finish as I have done on my ute. Available in a matte finish read lead or black. Not cheap but effective. Once again needs rusted metal to adhere to best.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Errol62 wrote:Won't touch clean metal only oxidized. Therefore won't protect clean metal, and only recommended to paint over with enamel. So yes get it off before paint.

Got lost on all the options being discussed here Clay - which one are you referring to in the above quote?


Scott

And got a bit more done.
Covered all the hidden areas in copper weld through primer. I’ll squirt cavity wax in there too later. Drilled more holes to plug weld this piece on.
Final checks to make sure it all lines up, don’t want to cock this up after how many hours have gone into it.
Tack all corners and start filling in the gaps. Had a small bit of copper in behind the gap to help bridge it with weld
And here’s the first round of welding done. Plug welding work really well on most holes. Grinding and welding etc to follow. I’ve also got to re form and weld the channel for the door rubber. That won’t be fun.


Scott

Great work!
Sorry was referring to the deoxidine and ranex. They aren't coatings. But you can paint enamel over. Metallic is a non porous primer, water based. You can have it as a final finish underbody or paint over like I did in my engine bay. Generally applied by brush.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Thanks clarifying Clay, will have a look at metalfix.


Scott

Nice work Scott, thanks for the updates

Stephen

Gidday Guys. I had my wagon blasted in 1990, bought it home and tried blowing and vacuuming as much sand out then scrubbed De-oxidine( neat) in to it. I have also used Rust chek (phosphorus based product). and has lived in a warm shed since. Just getting back into it lately and all it needs is a buff with a cup brush to bring the panel up mint. The residue dust coming off is not pleasant so a good mask is required. Very happy with this product.
Have used some crap on other parts ( looks like milk then goes black- water based ) after a couple of years , it is still rusty underneath ,so wire buffed it off and reused De-oxidine. Regards Daz.

Finally got around to finishing this little rust repair. I managed to re use the old 'gutter'. Was meant to be easy, but wasn't. Should have just fit as I copied the metal around it but clearly it was not. Much hammering, twisting and swearing. Gave up and threw it in the corner. Nearly cut it in two but decided to give it one more try yesterday and managed to find a line that matched the curve of the car (sort of). Its behind the passenger door so I'll never see it And so I started with this in November And ended up here. Haven't test fit the door. Fingers crossed. Gutter looks a little high.
Time to move on and find some more. Time flies.

You dun good
Couple taps will clearance it if necessary. You’ll need to match door to guard, all bolted up, before you can be sure. My ute I left the hinges on the car and unbolted the doors. That way you only have to gap it unless the guard changes. Even then I found the door mirror screw touches the gurtter slightly, doh.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

You have done a great job, no way in the world I would have the patience to do that.

I agree that is a great result for the effort. Everything else will be a breeze !!!

Greg