fbekholden.com

Info needed:
I am after an ignition switch that will fit the dash hole that has an accessory position. Do EH switches or HD/HR switches fit our dash? And if so, does the key barrel swap?
Thanks, B

Brett,

Yes, and yes. With certain qualifications. The threaded section of an EH ignition switch is probably the same length as FB/EK, since EH ignition switches fasten directly to the dash. HD/HR ignition switches have a longer threaded section because of the escutcheon.

The lock barrels will interchange . . . he says . . . checks master parts catalogue.
FE-EH ignition lock cylinders have the same part number. HD-HR have a different part number.

You'd be best off chasing down an EH ignition switch.

Rob

Thanks Rob.

Swapped the original ignition switch for a reconditioned HR switch. Bought a Rares bezel nut to make it work but it wouldn't screw on. Total waste of money. Ended up making a spacer and using the EK nut. Used the EK lock barrel without any problems. It is nice to have an accessory circuit.
On another note, finally got the Celica 5 speed certification in the RMS system. Only took 13 months.

Well done. Yes, what a luxury to have an accessory circuit.


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A bit of Easter weekend play.
Mathew at Rosie's garage Belconnen fitted the rack for me a week ago and I drove home with the old Torrie column and linkage. It was soooo light and no bump steer or nasties. It did bind a bit with the single uni up top, so bought a double one to solve that.
This weekend I fitted a tilt column and upgraded the rods and unis to account for a seriously tight angle. There are no binds and while it could be massaged a bit to look a bit prettier, I'll wait and see how it goes. I had to remake the firewall mount from the Torrie setup and fit a ball floor fitting to fit the angle.

George from Alien Retro Steering in Melbourne supplied and got the Commodore rack shortened to fit and also supplied the mounts.

Looks very tidy there Brett, a great improvement no doubt too!

Good work,

I particularly like the stand off bracket holding the rod end to support the movement of the double uni.

It looks like the rack is shortened, do you still have good lock to lock ?

Rack and pinion gives you very precise road feel, a great improvement.

Greg

I will eventually have to change that support bracket to flatten out the bearing angle - it looks a bit too untidy.
Lock to lock is not noticeably less than original, but it must really be a smidgen less. Steering is so much lighter at low speeds now that an extra maneuver, if required, will not be hard work. I like the tilt column - I will be able to see my indicator lights properly for the first time and getting in and out will be a fair bit easier now that decrepitude is well advanced.
For those wondering, the oil filter setup is off a Starfire engine and was a necessity with the single uni out of the Torana column. With the double uni installed the original z130 oil filter will now fit. I won't change it back though because it is so much easier to change and gives me more space. It's also very much less messy to change as the oil drains back into the engine from the inner part of the filter and the oil in the outer part stays in because of the anti drain flap. For those even more inquisitive, I use the v8 filter because the engine gets pressure a bit quicker and it takes up less space

Very nice work Brett.

Thanks Clay.
After a couple of weeks away, came back and tidied up the steering. Changed the bracket angle of the uni support to get that a bit truer, and made a little spacer for the Torrie steering wheel to get the horn and indicator cancel mechanism to work.
For anyone contemplating fitting a tilt column, it's like all mods- takes a bit of mucking about. I had to trim about 100mm off the outer, inner and shaft to get the collapsible section to fit and stay the 127mm length required by regs. Fortunately on this column, the shaft collapsible section is at the top end, so no changes needed to that bit, which keeps it compliant.
I had to pull the column apart (US GM type) which was pretty straightforward once you know three tricks. The first is that the top cover is a push on fit with no fasteners, the second is that you need a short screw to lever the two pivot pins out. And thirdly, the fastening plate needs to go back with the correct side facing up. These columns have a history of coming apart/ loose because of the screws in this plate working their way out. Need to use loctite on reassembly.
Very happy with this column and have settled on a slightly higher steering wheel position than previously. The column was a 30 inch one from memory and purchased from Australian Rod and Custom. Some pics of components, lengths cut offs and fit.

The rest of the pics.

Very nice. Steering wheel looks great and in the Torana theme.


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Thanks for the insight there Brett. I have the same column, but I am going to mount mine to the original style steering box so hopefully there is enough room there to avoid chopping it. But if I need to, now I now how to pull it all apart.

nice, - I have a similar tilt column at home, I am not entirely happy with the steering wheel placement in the rattler, its OK but it isn't where a "normal" FB/EK wheel sits and I guess that seeing as I have had one for over 40 years I am just so accustomed to it being where you would normally find it it seems wrong. Going to give it some time and see how I go but if not I am going to need to either find an alternative or move the one in it.