Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

FireKraka · Post by **FireKraka** » Tue Apr 10, 2018 10:04 am

Hi Clay
The flaring is not too bad just take it easy when you are doing them so that you don't split he tube I use a cheap Super Cheap Auto one and it goes pretty well.
Make sure you get the right amount of tube above the flare tool first and it should go ok.

Show us a photo of you flash tool mate.

Neil

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:10 pm

This turned up today

Seems a quality tool but no brand evident

Stage 1 produces a bell flare

Stage 2, SAE.

Easy

Should have the rears done over the weekend

Drums came up well in the acid bath. Cheers to Gazza for the inspiration.

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:19 pm

Bundy tube is a nice fit in the carb vacuum port

Dont use gasket goo a whole lot, the tube has been open since 1996.

I want to fit new manifolds so I can get on to the exhaust but starter may come out for a swap with one I picked up. Just need to swap the solenoid and clean up the stator maybe. The new one has a better pinion gear.

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Harv · Post by **Harv** » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:21 am

Interesting, those 2-piece die blocks for the turret flaring tool look very, very similar to the dies in my MasterCool tool. The corresponding forming tool and cone are held differently though, so would be hard to interchange.

Cheers,
Harv

FireKraka · Post by **FireKraka** » Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:20 am

Very nice looking flare tool mate it is a bit flasher than my Super Cheap one but end up with the same outcome.

You can never have enough tools I say.

Neil

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:43 pm

Neil
I’ll have to tart it around the local club (the tool) to pay for it. Seriously though i anticipate getting some use out of it. Thinking about running a booster on the yoot. Then there is the van. I want to put the booster under the floor with the battery and window washer.

Achieved a bit over the weekend, though I didn’t complete the rear brakes. I have decided to get the wheel cylinders re-sleeved. The fronts were pitted and cutting corners on the brakes ain’t smart. Although I wax lyrical about Power Brakes they have moved out to the far side of town. I’m giving Glenelg South Brakes a go.

I have made up the lines for the rear axle. I need to get more flare nuts and another roll of 3/16 bundy. Removed the complete brake hydraulic system now. All a bit crusty. The main from master to block is pretty good but I’m thinking seriously that I need to boost the drums. I do have lines for booster setup from the old EK 215 somewhere...... I also want to make up fuel and vacuum lines from pump and dizzy to carb.

I have two excellent solid drums, two excellent finned drums and two usable solid drums. The finned drums are lighter because of the grooving. Not sure what combo I’ll use at this stage.

Even though I’ve got a bunch of good shoes I’m also leaning towards getting a set re-bonded. It is not dear so why not.

Changed the water pump (again) and fitted 179 pulley and fan ready to go with belt from the sedan. Pulled off the EH manifold and extractors (again) ready to fit alloy manifold with HJ carb and 186 exhaust mani. Ran out of light before pulling out the starter to swap the solenoid on to a better one and reinstall with heat guard.

With the front in the air and wheels off I got the gurney in to the front guards and underneath. Orange clay from the Victorian wheat belt continues to rain down.

The brakes are well under way as is getting the engine running properly. Seat and steering wheel and I will be able to go for a sneaky punt around the block.....

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:57 pm

Took wheel cylinders to South Glenelg Brake Service this arvo. Sitting on the shelf was this

Now I need to find a spot to mount it.

He had some interesting old cars up on the hoists including FJ sedan with FE rear brakes and EJ fronts?! MG with plywood floors.

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FireKraka · Post by **FireKraka** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:53 am

Hi Clay
I have seen them mounted towards the radiator and now with you new flaring tool you can make the lines to run from the master cylinder.
I thought I have seen a photo on here or the fe/fc forum of this setup.

Neil

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:00 pm

That is the standard fitment Neil. Under the guard or under the tray floor are other options.

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:30 pm

Front end getting pretty clean

good time to get out the grease gun.

Brake hoses quoted 50-80$. These ones seem fine. Destruction tested a spare

They are pliant. Rubber and natural fibre braiding. So far I’m up to $650 on the brakes. Excludes machine drums, booster $350 and master cylinder I’ve got a few. I heard master cylinders only $15 for a China nock off. What’s another $150 on hoses?

these drums are like brand new. After a soak in citric I’m not sure whether to paint them.

In the process of salvaging the spring shielding off the rear main brake line

As you can see I’m all over the shop.

ive got the starter out to swap in new one with original solenoid. It’s a Bosch. Ect libe dit. None of yer pommy rubbish.
Cheers
Clay

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EK283 · Post by **EK283** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:37 pm

Hi Clay,

Your doing a grand job of revival there !

Don't worry to much about the $650, some I know spend this a month to have flashy new cars !!!

Good to see the ute is in good hands.

Greg

Post by **Blacky** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:28 pm

money spent on brakes is an investment

In the Shed · Post by **In the Shed** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:04 pm

All over the shop? Nah just multi tasking, something I'm still working on. Between house maint, work, looking after ageing parents, kids birthday party on weekend with seven kids sleeping over (clearing furniture, cleaning, taxi duty, assisting with craft projects, assisting catering & returning the house to normality), trying to get my outfit back on the road after 13 yrs of hibernation ..........

Keep up the good work Clay!

Regards
Stephen

Harv · Post by **Harv** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:13 am

In the Shed wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:04 pmAll over the shop? Nah just multi tasking

Multitasking works well. When something just will not !@#$%% work, walk away from it and work on something else. Come back to the task with a clear head. Funny how it works really easy the next time.

Cheers,
Harv

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:21 pm

So swapped the solenoid to new starter and reinstalled. With the manifolds off I cranked it over for 20 seconds. No fuel was coming out the pipe so I kept going. Still no fuel. When I released the starter it continued to crank even though I turned off ignition and removed key. It seems solenoid is stuck in the engaged position. No engine firing to throw the pinion out, I had to remove the negative battery lead to stop it cranking. Suppose I’ll investigate the fuel supply and throw on manifolds to see what happens when it fires. Anyone experienced this issue with starter motor?

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Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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