Lies about HR's and FB/EK's brake conversions

[Finny]

This is apparently the HR disc brake master.


And the non Disc one as well.


And the rear HR brakes for a disc front. At least the same way up as the EK/FB's

[Dee]

Hi Finny,
can't answer all your q's - but will tell you what I can.

I used a standard master cylinder - the first one came from PBR and all I did was take out the check valve - it worked fine for me.
The second one came from Bursons - it was also a standard master cylinder and I took out the check valve in that to make it work proper with the booster.

I don't know of the master cylinder you are showing with the disc brake markings - I have never had anything to do with that type - others might be able to tell you..

The rear brake assembely you show is exactly what mine used to look like - but I took off the auto adjust - the one I got was frozen.
By the pic the one you have put up is the rear left one - the red link rod and the extra lever under the rear are part of the auto adjust unit.
There is a short spring which puts thelever back after it makes an adjustment - I took all that off mine and just turn up the adjustment every now and again like the old way of doing the EK one - tighten up and back off half a turn - it might not be right, but it works for me.
You can use both type of shoes - but you need to put something in for the button ended wheel cylinders to push against if you use standard rear shoies.
I got the disc brake compatable shoes and I will not let any brake place take them away - they can reline your shoes in a day or two.
think Blacky or Thommo posted something about having to make a standard shoe mod..

Wheels - your EK wheels will not go over the rear brake drums - or if you put them on and tighen up the nuts they will "cramp" the drum - you need HD/HR wheels..

I was told I needed the HR disc wheels and went out and got a full set - I have since been told -whether this is true or not I dunno - but I have been told any HD/HR wheels will do the job.
I was told to pick the HR disc wheels is by a small hole in the webbing between the stud holes in the wheel and I have also been told there is a groove around the inside of the rim..... some of this may be crap - but that's what I been told.

Diff housing - I used an EH but will change to HR - I have one and will do it up to make the change.
The HR one has different mounts as others have posted but there are a lot on FB and EK's.
I think I like the HR setup a bit better - the brackets for the brake lines on a HR is the same as FB EK - the EH one is on the other side and you need to make something to hold the bit on to the housing - mine was pretty easy to do.
The pipes just get put on the opposite way around.. at least this is what I think I did a long time ago..

Um.. was there anyhing else you wanted... brb..

oh yeah - I don't know if the EH backing plates are the same as HR - I used HR and they bolted straight up to the EH housing I used..

Hope some of this clears stuff up for you - you been working on this for a while

Dee

[Finny]

Thanks Dee, really appreciate the info.

I didn't manage to get the EH, but did manage to get the HR rear end. Will be collecting it tomorrow. The master should be OK. As you said, will just remove the check valve.

Had a look under the EK this afternoon, so I could work out what I needed.

Looks simple enough Connected at the tail shaft (needs to change somehow), two shockies (I assume in the same positions), springs at front and rear (Hopefully identical on both)(Strange that the rear where it attaches to the frame does seem to have anyway of removing, you can unbolt the spring, but the U shaped part seems to be permanent) and brake line and handbrakes x 2 (Holden wreckers can make the cables to suit) Will let you know after I give it a try.

[Dee]

Hi Finny,
You need to use your rear EK Springs - HR ones are longer - I think?
Do you mean where the spring fits onto the diff housing or where the spring is bolted to the car?
If its the car the front of the spring comes out by unscrewing the flat had bolt which is fitted in from the inside of the body frame - it might be a bugger to get out - penetine might help loosen it or RP7 or WD40 they can get pretty much frozen in. I wouldn't worry about taking them out - as I said your EK spring is going to be the best.
I haven't put a HR diff in yet - mine is EH and it uses the U bolt setup.

The front end springs if you use the HR ones are a bit shorter - I should have put the EK ones in. You can pick those of us who used HR =- the front sits that little bit lower.

I don't think i had a prob with shocks - mine are Koni - been on the car thirty years without any need to look at them - had to replace one set of rubbers long time ago..

Tailshaft - yes you have to use the U bolt uni but you need to do something about a shorter tailshaft if you use an Aus box or some other longer box.
I dunno if theres a difference in length of the diff centre - I don't think so.
If you are still using the grey motor and box you'll still need to do something where the rear taishaft uni bolts up to the diff - I dunno if you can get a U bolt uni to fit an EK tailshaft.. others might

good luck Finny - this is just about all I know now..

but post again when you done the job. hope it goes good.

Dee

[FB MAD]

"If you are still using the grey motor and box you'll still need to do something where the rear taishaft uni bolts up to the diff - I dunno if you can get a U bolt uni to fit an EK tailshaft.. others might "

If you are still using grey motor and box and are converting to a red motor diff centre you still can use the grey motor tailshaft.

Just buy a red motor uni joint, knock out the old grey motor rear uni joint in the grey motor tailshaft and install the red motor uni joint in the tailshaft.Very easy,and then just bolt the tailshaft up using the red motor uni "U" bolts.

[mrs ratbox]

just a quicky on the topic of uni's recently did some for a mate, standard uni $14 rear to suit grey 3.89 centre $60 and that was a good price to us original special price quoted $90
it must suck to be a restorer

[karsten]

yeah i did the u bolt thing worked on my hydro tail sharft although ie got a 3.08 ndiff centre

[Finny]

I picked up the HR rear end yesterday, and gave it a quick clean today.



Yes the new one is off a sedan (4 leafs) so I was going to swap the springs anyhow. It will be a lot thicker with the 6 leafs.
Dee the U bracket was where the spring is bolted to the car, but now that I have seen the HR it's the same set up, so doesn't matter.


Haven't been able to see much under the car, so not sure about the tail shaft and what I'll need for the U bolt connection. Really didn't want to change the tailshaft, don't have one of them

Good to hear FB Mad, I'll get a uni joint.
Ratbox, it does suck, all adds up at the end. I just hope this has everything I needed. It didn't have a tail shaft, so no bolts or brackets for the end ?????


Guy I bought it off also showed me an original HR disc brake wheel. The visable difference being the hole on the left hand side of the photo, between the wheel nut holes.

[Finny]

Forgot to ask, how can you tell what the diff ratio is on the diff ?

Guess I'll need to remove the entire handbrake cable, shame they don't match.


Also whats the cap in the middle of the photo (under the brake line), Don't know if there's one the same on the EK.


I'll add some more info and photo's to my project post

[mrs ratbox]

pretty sure springs won't fit too long, diff ratio unless it's been changed if you look at the front where the tailshaft bolts up there's like a tin plate where it goes to the housing it should be stamped on there, the little nipley thing is a breather