Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:22 am
and use plenty of polishing compoundratbox wrote:stinky says it's very gratifying polishing yor own stuff.......just make sure no one is watching
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polishing & repairing moldings
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:16 am
Matty this may article be helpful
Metal polishing is just making big scratches smaller, like painting, the work is all in the preparation. You can however get great results quite easily.
Usually stainless is quite smooth so it needs little work; deeper scratches need to be taken out with P800 /P1200 sandpaper.
With alloy/aluminium you don't have to be too fussy as the metal is soft and you can polish big scratches out easily. You just have to be careful not to take too much material out.
Once you have your smooth piece of metal, you can polish it on the bench grinder.
Set up your grinder away from anything of value if you are doing a lot of polishing as it gets hell messy.
You need an arbour which is usually a piece of hexagonal bar stock with a tapered external thread on one end (for the mop) and an internal thread at the other (for the grinder).
You'll need a mop or two, there are various sizes, stitched or unstitched, stitched is firmer and easier to control, unstitched is more for final buffing and they'er messier as well.
You'll need compound & there are various compounds for various jobs, pick one to suit, they come in a solid bar.
Wear safety gear, good shoes and welding gloves, (metal gets hot enough to burn) & not absolutely necessary, a facemask, otherwise you'll have black snot for days.
Once you have set-up the mop apply some compound to the spinning mop & work on the metal. Practice on scrap to start with.
Have a sharp piece of metal handy - an old bit of angle iron cut to a sharp point is good. You'll need this to clean the mop as it becomes loaded with compound and polished off metal. If your wheel face is looking black and shiny, you need to clean it.
Metal polishing is just making big scratches smaller, like painting, the work is all in the preparation. You can however get great results quite easily.
Usually stainless is quite smooth so it needs little work; deeper scratches need to be taken out with P800 /P1200 sandpaper.
With alloy/aluminium you don't have to be too fussy as the metal is soft and you can polish big scratches out easily. You just have to be careful not to take too much material out.
Once you have your smooth piece of metal, you can polish it on the bench grinder.
Set up your grinder away from anything of value if you are doing a lot of polishing as it gets hell messy.
You need an arbour which is usually a piece of hexagonal bar stock with a tapered external thread on one end (for the mop) and an internal thread at the other (for the grinder).
You'll need a mop or two, there are various sizes, stitched or unstitched, stitched is firmer and easier to control, unstitched is more for final buffing and they'er messier as well.
You'll need compound & there are various compounds for various jobs, pick one to suit, they come in a solid bar.
Wear safety gear, good shoes and welding gloves, (metal gets hot enough to burn) & not absolutely necessary, a facemask, otherwise you'll have black snot for days.
Once you have set-up the mop apply some compound to the spinning mop & work on the metal. Practice on scrap to start with.
Have a sharp piece of metal handy - an old bit of angle iron cut to a sharp point is good. You'll need this to clean the mop as it becomes loaded with compound and polished off metal. If your wheel face is looking black and shiny, you need to clean it.