Floor Replacement

[Errol62]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic? ... source=app

Link to my van thread. You can see what I've done with the tunnel but this was a basket case unlike yours.

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[Mickmtcb]

Clay you are a glutton for punishment. That is a massive effort to get where you are. Here I am whinging about some a pillars and a few floors. Waiting on some butt welding clamps to arrive then I will start grafting. Front will come off to check inner sills. I like your rotisserie? Two engine stands welded together? I am considering rolling it up onto tyres with all the running gear and doors removed. Otherwise will buy another engine stand and make my own like you have done.
Keep send us pics of the build.
Cheers Mick

[Errol62]

Hi mick,
Heavy duty engine stands modified to be higher. Welded together with two lengths of two inch pipe after setting the body in place.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Errol62]

If the underside doesn’t need too much work you can dispense with the rotisserie. I wouldn’t like to be replacing inner sills without it.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Mickmtcb]

To be honest im happy with inner and outer sills. All seem good of what can be seen. I have used an industrial pressure washer and all the drain holes are clear. All that came out was some brown water when I put the washer in the various drain holes. So Im hopeful I don't have to start chopping them out. I also have a forklift and slings so I could actually swing the car up onto its side if I needed to and I have hoists as well so hoping the rotisserie is not needed?

[Mickmtcb]

Trying to post some floor pics but it keeps saying the image is invalid?

[Errol62]

I use Tapatalk app on my phone so can’t help with computer stuff. You could try Tapatalk even if only to directly load up images from your phone and use computer otherwise.

Yes I wouldn’t go ripping the sills off unless rust starts coming through. If you do most of your welding on the floor from the top you’ll be right, especially if you can get it up on the hoist to clean up and zap the odd pinhole. Under the car is a good way to spot any small holes in your butt welds if you are anywhere near as poor a welder as me.

With all hanging panels and drive train out as you say, you can tip it over on the wheels and balance just over centre with the roof gutter/door top resting on a pile of rims with tyres or similar if you need. That is what I did with the ute I’m doing. First took off the subframe and repaired all that. Refitted and then tipped over to do repairs on the rear inner wheel arches and floor.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Mickmtcb]

I use Tapatalk app on my phone so can’t help with computer stuff. You could try Tapatalk even if only to directly load up images from your phone and use computer otherwise.

Yes I wouldn’t go ripping the sills off unless rust starts coming through. If you do most of your welding on the floor from the top you’ll be right, especially if you can get it up on the hoist to clean up and zap the odd pinhole. Under the car is a good way to spot any small holes in your butt welds if you are anywhere near as poor a welder as me.

With all hanging panels and drive train out as you say, you can tip it over on the wheels and balance just over centre with the roof gutter/door top resting on a pile of rims with tyres or similar if you need. That is what I did with the ute I’m doing. First took off the subframe and repaired all that. Refitted and then tipped over to do repairs on the rear inner wheel arches and floor.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Here some photos of the floor blasted. I've epoxy and primed it in the interim. When the butt weld clamps arrive next week I'll head out and get some floor pans and have a crack at it. Those clamps will make things so much easier.

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[Errol62]

Not bad at all. Just patches in front I would think. By the way sone of the front floor pans can be slightly short in the outside front corner.

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[Mickmtcb]

Actually when the light is under it there are pin holes all over the RHS. LHS just needs the outer bit only about 4 inches wide. The guy left it sitting outside full of water. I have had it dry stored since 2012 but the damage was already done by then. both chassis out riggers are shot at the sill mounts. I'll just chip away and hopefully can do it all without having to up end it!

[Mickmtcb]

Hi Clay
I am confused over the join at the b pillar. My car appears to have what looks like factory oxy welds around the base of the B pillar where it meets the floor. The rare pans have the upturned edge all along that B pillar area. Are you able to confirm if the factory was oxy welded around the B pillar base or should there be a hard upturned edge as per the rares pans?

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[Errol62]

I really couldn't say Mick. The production sequence is evidenced in stock images whereby the sills and pillars were assembled on a horizontal jig, then stood up and joined together with front, floor and roof. Four floor panels being rear with fuel tank hole and axle hump, rear floor from front of axle hump to the box section under front seat, front floor and firewall cowl section.

So floor would have been joined after sills and pillars. I don't know how much oxy was used as skilled labour would have been required. Brazing is evident here and there in the Ute and van bodies. Mostly spot welding was used. I don't gthink it matters how you do it as long as it is strong and tidy.
Cheers
Clay

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[Mickmtcb]

Thanks Clay

I've just been talking to my engineer. A mate who I play cricket with. He is ex Vic Roads and now has his own business modifying cars for people with disability. He has told me for engineering he wants lap welds for the floors. Apparently much stronger. I can flange them in if I like? He says the resto guys butt weld and then bog smear for that perfect look however because the weld is harder than the metal they will eventually stress crack over time. Which I sort of have to agree with. Even when using the argoshield light that gives a softer weld. When I broached the subject of corrosion he said the whole car is put together with overlap panels and as long as I do the proper prep and sealing I shouldn't expect the lap weld to perish given todays range of rust inhibitors.I have a flanging tool so Im going to recess the new panel so the inset brings the base of the floor downwards to a near perfect match but I reckon its going to be harder than aligning the butt weld. As soon as I get my head around the cut out and get it lined up I'll post some pics
Thanks again for your assistance.

[Errol62]

Lap weld will be stronger, but use weld through primer inside the laps and stitch weld either side 20mm length followed by 20mm gap. Grind and bog if required but make sure moisture can’t get in. The overlaps are where these cars are all rusted.

I hear tig weld is not hard like mig. May be worth discussion.

If you need to bog the butt welds they are not done correctly.

It’s only the floor in the end.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Harv]

He has told me for engineering he wants lap welds for the floors. Apparently much stronger. I can flange them in if I like? He says the resto guys butt weld and then bog smear for that perfect look however because the weld is harder than the metal they will eventually stress crack over time.

You have to do what the engineer wants, but his opinion sounds like a myth. The weld in a lap joint would be just as hard, and just as susceptible to cracking. The small overlap, even if seal welded both sides of the lap, would give little bracing against flexing. I've seen my share of repaired floors (butt welded and lapped), but haven't seen many crack.

To ease his concern you could always do the easier butt weld, then anneal the heat affected zone with an LPG torch or gas axe.

Cheers,
Harv