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Cheers Gazza

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Cam and lifters back from Clives

Hopefully fitted soon then diff centre 3:36








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Chrissy come early over there mate

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Nice. Clive is good people.

With your lift and duration, roughly comparing to Camtech cam profiles:
a) GMH Standard Standard camshaft
b) Smooth idle, good throttle response and low end torque.
c) Good street performance cam. Excellent low end and mid range power.
d) Good street performance cam. Strong mid range power. Minimum 9:1 compression ratio required.
e) Your cam.
f) Performance street and track use. Strong mid range and top end. Requires 9.5:1+ compression ratio and 3.5:1 + diff ratio
g) Performance street and track use. Great for weekend cruise car, street strip meetings or circuit use. Very strong mid range. Minimum 10:1 compression ratio, 3.5:1+ diff ratio.
h) Rough idle, strong top end, modified engines only. Minimum 10.5:1 compression ratio.

Cheers,
Harv

Off to Guzzlers to have the cam n carbs installed





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Thanks Harv

With the 215 @50 duration it’s not a huge cam

I did look at Camtechs 609 grind which is 231 a little more aggressive

Spoke to Clive regards my engine and his 82 grind was the recommendation


Looking forward to seeing how it goes

Regards

Gazza


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Going to be nice Gazza. You’re sticking with the crash box I’m thinking.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yes mate crash box
Once the cam is in its off to a mates workshop for an engine bay paint and a Dulux rebuild

Regards

Gazza



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Well that didn’t go according to plan
Cam wouldn’t fit, bearings in motor smaller ID than cam journals

So off for new cams bearings
Decided to freshen up the head red motor valves ect, engine builder called 2 pots have oil blow by, so we take the sump off and we has see through multi piece main bearings bores are 60 thou and out of shape

Have a few blocks in the shed one is original bore but the only pistons I can find are 60 thou over seems a shame to go strait to 60 but it seems to be the norm from 3 engine builders ??
This one is not going to be cheap

Anyone have any info without buying forged pistons

Much appreciated

Gazza







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Gaz,

I just deleted the reply I was typing. Swear words off the record. Second attempt.

I would not be too quick to discard your cylinder block. I don't recognise the code on the piston crowns, but it's likely you have a 3-1/8" bore motor. Do you have a digital caliper to measure the bore size? Your bores aren't scored, and they look less worn than many I've seen (my own engines included).

Auto Surplus in Melbourne has a full range of oversize grey motor pistons and rings. Nornda Automotive in Adelaide (aka JP Pistons) also has a full range of pistons. Plus they will sell rings and new piston pins. Or you could try Nason.

Here's an idea: pop the pistons out of the bores. Select the most worn-looking bore and clean the carbon from the top of the bore. Remove the second compression ring from the piston and put it in the top of the bore so it only just enters the bore. Measure the ring gap. Now push the ring down (use the piston, upside-down) to just below the ring ridge. Measure the ring gap again. Subtract the first reading from the second, then divide by 3. That's your bore wear. I'd be really surprised if your bores are more than 0.005" worn. With about 0.005" bore wear, you'll be fine with a hone and new rings, provided that your top ring grooves are not worn.

Check the small ends for loose fit on the piston pins (any perceptible front-to-rear rock of the conrod on the piston pin means new piston pins and bushes).

Your "see-through" main bearings suggest that the bottom end will need work . . . probably a crankshaft grind.

You have one of the very few grey motors without head gasket leaks between 2&3 and 4&5. Says to me that your motor is worth working with.

Rob

Agree with Ardiesse , we just sourced some standard pistons and rings from auto Surplus for a partial rebuild a few weeks back so they still have stock mate.

I got away with 20 thou over with mine which was done at Top Torque in nunawading who source all the gear from Auto-Surplus which were JP I believe.
So there should be better options than 60 thou over for sure.

Back in the day of mass engine change overs you would find that all engines were punched out 60 thou off the bat.
This was because engine re conditioners that were on the larger scale found that measuring blocks then machining them to the next size was costly in terms of efficiency.
The answer was simply bore the blocks 60 thou whether they need them or not. Their machines were set once and the stores had one size piston on the shelf, the money making production line was at its peak !
Its quite hard to find a 202 that has not copped this treatment as those motors were the most popular.

I would search first Garry before going so big on the bore as this tends to lead to issues especially with a modified engines like a big cam, compression etc. Split bores can eventuate unless you xray and bore to suit the cores. This become expensive so its much better if you can find the right piston for the block.

Greg

Thanks all

The block is a 132 60 thou over
So it looks like a home and new rings and bearings
Should save me a few $$

Will post some pics soon

Regards

Gazza


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Standard 138 bore then Gazza. 3 1/8 = 3.0625


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie