New Member - Orange Betty

[Orange Betty]

Thanks for the advice. I was planning on getting her blasted and thought I'd do a complete strip down including removing the front subframe, and everything under the rear and ship it off to the blasters that way including doors, bonnet, boot lid and fenders.

Wayne why wouldn't you blast the roof and large panels? Also I see that you shipped Milkshake to the blasters as a rolling unit, does that make it easier?

Definately tagging and bagging, including all the nuts and bolts - which leads me to Q3 - do you re-use / re-condition them or just get new ones?

Q4 is what is a dog leg? Other than the leg of a dog...

Cheers
Dave

[FireKraka]

Dave;
I think you are going down the right path/plan, I procrastinated with my ute for a couple of years not really knowing where to start or what was underneath the little paint and rust that was there, blasting got my bum into gear and I could see where I needed to go.

Wayne is saying not to get the roof blasted because some blasters are not as good as others and may use a harsh blast medium, can put too much heat into the panel when blasting and this causes the panel to warp or ripple, soda blasting is a good way to go I'm told but may be more expensive, my ute was done using garnet but the blaster was very experienced with old cars.

Maybe somebody on here can recommend a good blaster near you.

Answers to your questions as best as I know
Strip it down to bare bones and take all the panels you want blasted to the blaster this is a good idea including sub-chassis.

If you look back in my ute build you will see that I took my ute to the blaster on the rotis otherwise build a rolling frame as Wayne did it makes life a bit easier for the blaster.

Reuse/recondition as much of what you take off as you can, nuts and bolts are imperial threads (UNC UNF) and alot have heads designed to go into certain spots i.e. countersunk etc. so if you have them it is easier than trying to source again.

Lastly I think Wayne is referring to the K legs of the sub-chassis but I could be wrong I'm sure he will answer.

Regards
Neil

[EK283]

Thanks for the advice. I was planning on getting her blasted and thought I'd do a complete strip down including removing the front subframe, and everything under the rear and ship it off to the blasters that way including doors, bonnet, boot lid and fenders.

Wayne why wouldn't you blast the roof and large panels? Also I see that you shipped Milkshake to the blasters as a rolling unit, does that make it easier?

Definately tagging and bagging, including all the nuts and bolts - which leads me to Q3 - do you re-use / re-condition them or just get new ones?

Q4 is what is a dog leg? Other than the leg of a dog...

Cheers
Dave

The dog legs are in front of the rear wheels, they can rust badly from the inside out normally

Regards Greg

[59wagon]

The dog legs are in front of the rear wheels, they can rust badly from the inside out normally

Regards Greg

Like this....

GEDC1218.jpg (158.99 KiB) Viewed 1069 times

[Orange Betty]

Ahhh, I think my dog legs are ok. Unlike the bottom of the A Pillars (?where the front door hinges go) but handy to fish out the bolts attaching the fenders...

Some progress over the weekend. Removed the front and rear glass - the rubber was so brittle I just broke it all off from the inside and the rest came out easy.

Removed the fuel tank. There is a hole in one corner and some stuff rattling around in it. Can the sender unit be replaced, it doesn't look like it on this one? Is it worth salvaging?

tank.JPG (44.16 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

Also removed the "shroud upper outer panel" and am up to removing the "plenum chamber cover panel and door assembly" which I assume is this:

Under shroud grille.JPG (37.21 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

but the manual says it is located under the instrument panel?

Under Dash.JPG (36.05 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

Can any point me in the right direction?

Also I assume this widget is something to do with the spare wheel?

Spare wheel thing.JPG (38.58 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

Still having fun...

Dave

[gledge]

There is a cover over the fuel sender mate ya just have to gently prize it up then ya will be able to see how to remove it the senders can be purchased from rare spares but fuel tanks are getting pretty hard to find but your probably in the right place on this forum to find one..


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[Patrick_R]

I’m looking forward to see how Betty progresses Dave.

Ric.

[Errol62]

Also removed the "shroud upper outer panel" and am up to removing the "plenum chamber cover panel and door assembly" which I assume is this:

Under shroud grille.JPG

but the manual says it is located under the instrument panel?

Dave,
Have a good look under the dash. Carefully remove the cardboard glovebox insert. You will see the plenum door and frame which is actuated by the chrome lever next to the ash tray. Can you see any evidence of rust holes in the panel it is mounted to? Is the plenum chamber full of pine needles or leaves? There are drain tubes either end of the chamber which allow any water to escape to the inner guard area. You can remove the door assembly if the seal needs replacing. Minor rust holes can be accessed under the dash rather than removing the cover panel but this is easier if the interior is out of the car and easier still if the car is on a rotisserie.

In my thread EK panel van project
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t I have som piccies of the under dash area. Also recently described replacing the plenum door seal in my FBUte thread. This job was actually the first task I ever undertook on my EK sedan when I first got it in 1986.
Cheers
Clay


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[59wagon]

Removed the fuel tank. There is a hole in one corner and some stuff rattling around in it. Can the sender unit be replaced, it doesn't look like it on this one? Is it worth salvaging?
tank.JPG

Hi Dave, when you remove the sender unit, you can test to see if it works. If it's not working, it's possible to fix, depending on what's wrong and how far you're prepared to go fixing it. They're about $170 from Rare Spares, which includes the gasket and new screws/washers. If you need help, just sing out.

Also I assume this widget is something to do with the spare wheel?

Spare wheel thing.JPG

Yep, it's the spare wheel holder.

Cheers,

John

[Orange Betty]

There is a cover over the fuel sender mate ya just have to gently prize it up then ya will be able to see how to remove it the senders can be purchased from rare spares but fuel tanks are getting pretty hard to find but your probably in the right place on this forum to find one..

Thanks gledge, will give that a try.

Have a good look under the dash. Carefully remove the cardboard glovebox insert. You will see the plenum door and frame which is actuated by the chrome lever next to the ash tray. Can you see any evidence of rust holes in the panel it is mounted to? Is the plenum chamber full of pine needles or leaves? There are drain tubes either end of the chamber which allow any water to escape to the inner guard area. You can remove the door assembly if the seal needs replacing. Minor rust holes can be accessed under the dash rather than removing the cover panel but this is easier if the interior is out of the car and easier still if the car is on a rotisserie.

In my thread EK panel van project
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t I have som piccies of the under dash area. Also recently described replacing the plenum door seal in my FBUte thread. This job was actually the first task I ever undertook on my EK sedan when I first got it in 1986.

Thanks Clay. I must admit it was dark and so didn't have as good a look under the dash as I should have. The pictures in your panel van thread are great, I know what to look for now. Hope that build is still going well, the work you are doing is amazing. The rotisserie looks like a useful piece of kit to have!

Hi Dave, when you remove the sender unit, you can test to see if it works. If it's not working, it's possible to fix, depending on what's wrong and how far you're prepared to go fixing it. They're about $170 from Rare Spares, which includes the gasket and new screws/washers. If you need help, just sing out.

Thanks John, appreciate it. I have now seen a picture of the spare wheel holder in action !

Bring on the weekend.

Dave

[WayneXG95]

The fuel tank might be saveable if you can find someone to weld and patch it - If you can and the rest is reasonable you can get a POR15 Tank sealer kit - Ute, Van and Wagon tanks are getting rare these days.

[Orange Betty]

A bit more progress, a few more questions...
I managed to prise the cap off the fuel sender. The screw heads are very rusted and I don't like my chances of getting them out easily - any hints? There isn't a lot of room to work in there.

Have cleared out under the dash and although the windscreen wiper motor connection and all the wiring frustrated me no end, we got there. However I can't figure out how to get my ignition mechanism out and for which I don't have a key?

What is the spot next to the ignition for?

What was here.JPG (93.17 KiB) Viewed 889 times

and what is this thing under the accelerator pedal and how do you remove it? The fastener on the underside is not something I recognise.

What was here.JPG (93.17 KiB) Viewed 889 times

Cheers
Dave

[In the Shed]

G'day Dave,

A good project you have there! Your going to need the ignition key to remove the ignition switch unless someone else on here has an alternative. You could see if another early Holden enthusiast has a key that might fit your lock as can sometimes be the case.

The opening in the dash to the left of the ignition lock is for the headlight switch.

Mounted through the floor is the headlight dip switch, however I note you seem to have two? The one mounted on the access panel by the steering column is an after thought. I reckon the other one is correct and I think from memory is held in position by two screws (been a while since I've had to touch one). The wiring will be accessible from the underside.

You would find it helpful if you could get your hands on a workshop manual. Keep an eye out on Gumtree.

Regards
Stephen

[gledge]

Hi Dave I had the same problem with the ignition Barrell and in the end I just used a pair of multi grips and I nice thick piece of rag and gently but forcefully wriggled and pulled on the chrome outer bezel until it clipped off and then the chrome retaining nut unscrews and you can remove the whole switch. Mine clips on and off no worries so I just do it that way every time even though I now have a key cut and can do it the correct way.. but even if it didn’t clip back on you can at least take it to the locksmith and get a key cut without paying for a home visit and use a dob of glue to hold the bezel on..


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[Errol62]

The thing under the accelerator pedal is simply a spring fitted to hydramatic cars. Mounted on a captive nut welded to the floor. I believe the idea was to make full throttle application require extra pressure. Apply penetrant and marinate for 24 hours. Then attach point nosed multi grips between spring coils to centre shaft and simply unscrew.


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