Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Definitely appropriate my opinion rosco
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Congratulations Clay you have just hit the 100th page of your build not bad for a quick clean up and drive project mate
Neil
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Gee thanks Neil. More sanding and less posting needed.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Ha Neil you beat me too it. More pages than I've had roast dinners!
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Centurian thread now, Clay..... bit more to do yet... wonder what the final page number will be with you strap on the test pilot's helmet....
frats,
Rosco
frats,
Rosco
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
I think this thread holds the record for most pages of a build - maybe Mick Jaggers got this far but I cant think of any others ???
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
longest in "My FB EK" section, most are 30 pages for a build, must be all the red cans...
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
A spot on the passenger rear quarter had a d up which I had missed , not having skim bogged the whole thing. So I whipped out the strip disc and refilled it.
Down for another 4l tin of PPG Dulon premium 1k prime fill surface.
It is 40% and 28C. Mixed up the 4L with 3L thinners and giving the whole thing another three or four coats.
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Down for another 4l tin of PPG Dulon premium 1k prime fill surface.
It is 40% and 28C. Mixed up the 4L with 3L thinners and giving the whole thing another three or four coats.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
That shit in the cans ain't proper Coopers.gpi wrote:longest in "My FB EK" section, most are 30 pages for a build, must be all the red cans...
Nothing but issues with the primer this arvo.
Started on the roof, driver side. Went to the passenger side and thick clumps of dust. WTF?? I just cleaned it, before I shut the roller door...
Then the tip clogged between first and second coat. Must be too hot today.
Next issue the breather clogged, causing a vacuum in the tank. Had that one before so soon sorted. Thank God it wasn't the top coat. At least I got a good cover on the rear quarters.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
A lot of dry paint and overspray. Probably should have used more thinners considering the heat maybe.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
I’m pretty disappointed. Can’t quite work out what went wrong. It is possible that the dust I had was actually paint that dried before it hit the panels. Most of it will end up on the floor together with the copious amount of overspray that is already there,
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Happens to the best of us, Clay..... yes, to me it looks as if the paint was too "hot".. or too thick - that is, the thinners dried in the air before they hit the panel.
Other causes can be too far from the panel - or too much air pressure...
If it is of any comfort to you, and may help when you go to lay the next coat down - I run a "wet" coat over a test board before I hit a panel.. mainly to set the gun up but also, if the atmosphere is going to play merry heck - it can do it on a scrap piece...
My suggestion is also should this show up again... stop - nothing you can do with the gun will fix it.... the paint is there and you can't do anything about it... if you ply more on - it's only more that you'll have to rub off.
I think I've made mention of my differing thinners... I have three grades I rely on... one is ordinary GP thinners, then I have "hot" thinners and also "slow" thinners... depending on the day.... for most of the time, the GP will pretty much work well... but, on days which are cold - I use a "hot" thinner... so as to prevent runs... on days which are dry or hot - or both.. I use a "slow" thinner.... it will stay "wet" in the fan until it has well and truly hit the surface and spread into the adjoining passes....
I know that paint suppliers stipulate the mix rates... but, if the paint is too thick on a warm day - it will both dry in the air and also clog stuff up in your gun.... I probably mix more thinners in than most people who spray cars.. not a great deal.. but more than what the can says.
Another little trick I do, which to me makes a lot of sense and has saved me many times - is to mix up the paint in a glass jar... I like the "Dolmio" ones.. they come with measurements on the jar....
I add all my paint and thinners into the jar - close the lid up tight... and shake the living daylights out of it for a few minutes....
When I know it's mixed... I give it a really good shake again and stop abruptly looking at the side of the jar.... I "count" the number of seconds it takes to see the meniscus (level of paint) show up on the side of the jar...
I have my own reference times for different paints.... too thin a paint will take less time to show this line.. too thick - more time...
It's a darned good guide as to how thick your paint is at a certain temperature.
If it's too thick - just add more thinners... too thin, and you can either close down your needle a bit or add more paint to the mix....
I do this not only with spraying all types of paint in general and auto applications, but also do it in modeling.... it's a pretty "constant" guide across the entire playing field of spray painting...
It's just so frustrating to finally get the right day when you've been waiting 50 years for it... and this to happen....
It won't happen next time.. but, bear in mind - you'll probably over-compensate.... look for any sign of running... and don't be tempted to go for the extra gloss when you can see your face in it after a good solid pass... let those thinners evaporate out before laying down another wet pass over the same spot......
And yes, thank goodness it wasn't top or colour coats.....
It's a thin line, this spray painting... you might be in pain now, but I can very much assure you - those great coats are coming... just not yet....
frats,
Rosco
Other causes can be too far from the panel - or too much air pressure...
If it is of any comfort to you, and may help when you go to lay the next coat down - I run a "wet" coat over a test board before I hit a panel.. mainly to set the gun up but also, if the atmosphere is going to play merry heck - it can do it on a scrap piece...
My suggestion is also should this show up again... stop - nothing you can do with the gun will fix it.... the paint is there and you can't do anything about it... if you ply more on - it's only more that you'll have to rub off.
I think I've made mention of my differing thinners... I have three grades I rely on... one is ordinary GP thinners, then I have "hot" thinners and also "slow" thinners... depending on the day.... for most of the time, the GP will pretty much work well... but, on days which are cold - I use a "hot" thinner... so as to prevent runs... on days which are dry or hot - or both.. I use a "slow" thinner.... it will stay "wet" in the fan until it has well and truly hit the surface and spread into the adjoining passes....
I know that paint suppliers stipulate the mix rates... but, if the paint is too thick on a warm day - it will both dry in the air and also clog stuff up in your gun.... I probably mix more thinners in than most people who spray cars.. not a great deal.. but more than what the can says.
Another little trick I do, which to me makes a lot of sense and has saved me many times - is to mix up the paint in a glass jar... I like the "Dolmio" ones.. they come with measurements on the jar....
I add all my paint and thinners into the jar - close the lid up tight... and shake the living daylights out of it for a few minutes....
When I know it's mixed... I give it a really good shake again and stop abruptly looking at the side of the jar.... I "count" the number of seconds it takes to see the meniscus (level of paint) show up on the side of the jar...
I have my own reference times for different paints.... too thin a paint will take less time to show this line.. too thick - more time...
It's a darned good guide as to how thick your paint is at a certain temperature.
If it's too thick - just add more thinners... too thin, and you can either close down your needle a bit or add more paint to the mix....
I do this not only with spraying all types of paint in general and auto applications, but also do it in modeling.... it's a pretty "constant" guide across the entire playing field of spray painting...
It's just so frustrating to finally get the right day when you've been waiting 50 years for it... and this to happen....
It won't happen next time.. but, bear in mind - you'll probably over-compensate.... look for any sign of running... and don't be tempted to go for the extra gloss when you can see your face in it after a good solid pass... let those thinners evaporate out before laying down another wet pass over the same spot......
And yes, thank goodness it wasn't top or colour coats.....
It's a thin line, this spray painting... you might be in pain now, but I can very much assure you - those great coats are coming... just not yet....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Thanks Rosco. The gun was set per usual at 25psi, max fan, 2 1/2 out on the needle. Gee is that right on the needle or should it be 1 1/2?
Test piece was ok. I will check the needle setting and add more thinners. I mixed it 4 to 3 as recommended for filling.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Test piece was ok. I will check the needle setting and add more thinners. I mixed it 4 to 3 as recommended for filling.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
looks like the last day for painting for a while, fingers crossed for you.
Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
Going surfing now. Warm and windy today, but yes will do some sanding. Still hoping top coat next week now, weather dependant.
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FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
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