Thanks for the encouragement Rosco. The roof has come up pretty well. Plan is to lower the car so much that the rest will be less noticeable......... I’m only half joking.
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Looking good Clay. I'm looking forward to seeing colour. I'm interested in the humidity issue. Does wetting the floor affect epoxy primers adversely? I know it works ok with the old acrylic.
I guess anything that causes a spike in the humidity is an issue Brett. Something I have to worry about less than you east coast enthusiasts, but the cold winters kill it for me. As per Rosco’s suggestion a humidity meter might be a worthwhile investment. At work we use the Kestrel weather gauges which are very reliable but not cheap. Having said that they are probably in the price range of a home weather station. I know which I would put my money on. The weather stations are not much better than toys really. For me an old analogue thermometer does the job.
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I'm trying madly to get rust work and body prep done so I can paint shell in April before it gets too cold to manage. Hoping that I can keep it warm enough with heat lamps to paint individual panels after that. Time just slips away - and there is just sooo much rust. I wonder if the lower pressure gravity fed guns at about it half the operating pressure of the suction fed ones make a difference in the amount of dust disturbed in the home painters setup. Will see soon enough.
Most of the work is in the prep costs hey. Dust not really an issue because you’re sanding it back. Plenty of warm still days in April in Adelaide at least. So I can do top coat under the carport out of the dusty shed. Middle of the day with hopefully no insects. Acrylic dries comparatively fast. That is the plan anyway. My shed is about the dustiest place on earth.
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Yes, my spray painting window is closing... the cold will all-too-soon be on us and I simply refuse to rush spray jobs when I know they are only band-aids to a rub back and respray when the weather comes back.... around October here..
Temperature and humidity have a great bearing on outcome... it simply isn't worth the risk to lay paint.
Having said that, this applies to a vehicle which is in storage - if a spray job is being done on a regular driver.. it is very important to keep the work sealed.
I have seen cars running around in primer for what seems yonks... many of them with guide coat on them... it's not my thing to do this, I believe i'd rather run a bit of topcoat over them to seal the primer.... more than likely, you'll appreciate that many of these cars running around with primer on them also have 'brown" stains.... and that demands rubbing right back to metal....
It was a favorite practice once to leave the vehicle in primer for a week or two so that the acrylic would "pull down"... prior to rubbing back and top-coating... which makes a bit of sense. Some of the really heavy builds of primer will shrink as the thinners find their way out... in time.
Heavy builds of acrylic primer result in this... hence my desire now to try another way in 2K primer.. with a thin acrylic primer under the final acrylic top coat...
I will post up a pic of the rear quarter of my old bus during a blocking down stage... you'll see the "work" involved to get that finish I seem to be besotted with now... will post it up here (with OP permission) when I find it.... along with one of my rear doors which went even further in differing color primers and fillers... quite artistic, actually...
Keep going, FJW's great pic should give you all the incentive you need during this somewhat laborious stage... if you want the finish he has achieved - you simply have to put in the work now to get it.... stunning, FJW.. simply stunning.
Second thoughts about the protec 458 I got. It seems I didn’t give Steve enough information, assuming he knew what I was doing. A read of the TDS told me it doesn’t like acrylic. It’s all getting sanded off. Went back and got this:
It likes epoxy, bare steel and acrylic, and can be used as a one shot etch prime, surfacer and filler.
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Yes I had it confirmed about the acrylic today Patrick , confirming my suspicions. As to polyester bog, Epotec 408 is the only thing I know of you can use if over, though I haven't done it, yet. Possibly other epoxy 2k systems are okay as they are generally impervious no?
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Well I’m frustrated. Warm dry day today, and as I’m WFH thought I’d get some more layers of hifill on the body. Quick scuff with 240 and wipe down with plas-chamois.
Cleaning thoroughly with wax and grease remover, going carefully on the bare metal sand throughs touched up with the new aerosol I got from Steve. Wiped it off back to metal. I can’t get him on the phone as the shop is flat out.
Previously I touched up the guards with the protec 458. I am going to have a go at painting over this with acrylic hifill as I can’t do the body. If it works I will do same on body. I probably should have just stuck to touching up with Epotec.
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