matty martins mild custom wagon
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mattymartin
- Posts: 841
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 12:49 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: sydney
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mrs ratbox
Hi Matty,
you're the one who has to make the decision - I can onlyoffer my suggestion.
My wiper motor is an SWF type - same as yours.
I decided to "theme" my engine bay - all my links/rods/pipes etc are done in a glossy wheel silver - I also used it on the gearbox end of the wiper motor -
For other parts like the air cleaner cover and oil filler vent - I went with acrylic black - I used this on the wiper motor.
As I suggested some time ago when you were hiding wires - find a convention or "theme"
- I think it makes the bay a little more "organised"
I think there is a pic of my bay somewhere on this forum where you can see my "theme"............. if not - I'll post one again.............
frats,
Rosco (still the raccoon)
you're the one who has to make the decision - I can onlyoffer my suggestion.
My wiper motor is an SWF type - same as yours.
I decided to "theme" my engine bay - all my links/rods/pipes etc are done in a glossy wheel silver - I also used it on the gearbox end of the wiper motor -
For other parts like the air cleaner cover and oil filler vent - I went with acrylic black - I used this on the wiper motor.
As I suggested some time ago when you were hiding wires - find a convention or "theme"
- I think it makes the bay a little more "organised"
I think there is a pic of my bay somewhere on this forum where you can see my "theme"............. if not - I'll post one again.............
frats,
Rosco (still the raccoon)
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mattymartin
- Posts: 841
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 12:49 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: sydney
thanks guys
rosco, a picture would be great thanks....
ratbox, yeah joe thinks it should be too long before its finished now, as mine is first in line...
i can see red paint but it looks to be on the chrome... are these things easy to pull off... how ????
theo, the cars original colour was like a pinkish colour so i guess its not gonna match up...
i'll call joe today... in regards to fixing the steering wheel 7 the chrome heater housing...
thanks
matty martin
rosco, a picture would be great thanks....
ratbox, yeah joe thinks it should be too long before its finished now, as mine is first in line...
i can see red paint but it looks to be on the chrome... are these things easy to pull off... how ????
theo, the cars original colour was like a pinkish colour so i guess its not gonna match up...
i'll call joe today... in regards to fixing the steering wheel 7 the chrome heater housing...
thanks
matty martin
go the wagons....
Hi Matty,
ok - couldn't find one on this machine just of the wiper motor, but here's one of the bay without the air cleaner.
I had forgotten that I painted each end of the wiper motor in Wheel Silver - the motor body is in acrylic along with hood springs, both baffle crossmembers, oil filler cap, radiator and horn............. I decided not to paint the firewall plate of the wiper motor - it came up pretty good with a metal polish.

if you want one just of the wiper - I post a happy snap tonight.............
The dash vent and heat control cover - remove the two (if you have both fitted) knobs from their levers using an allen key, remove the nut from behind the dash and the philips head screw from the lower front ...........
the cover should then lift off (if it doesn't fall off as you loosen the screw first).
To remove any paint - use acrylic thinners - be sure to polish and wax it before you put it back on - thinners will strip any protection...........
frats,
Rosco (the vanishing raccoon)
ok - couldn't find one on this machine just of the wiper motor, but here's one of the bay without the air cleaner.
I had forgotten that I painted each end of the wiper motor in Wheel Silver - the motor body is in acrylic along with hood springs, both baffle crossmembers, oil filler cap, radiator and horn............. I decided not to paint the firewall plate of the wiper motor - it came up pretty good with a metal polish.

if you want one just of the wiper - I post a happy snap tonight.............
The dash vent and heat control cover - remove the two (if you have both fitted) knobs from their levers using an allen key, remove the nut from behind the dash and the philips head screw from the lower front ...........
the cover should then lift off (if it doesn't fall off as you loosen the screw first).
To remove any paint - use acrylic thinners - be sure to polish and wax it before you put it back on - thinners will strip any protection...........
frats,
Rosco (the vanishing raccoon)
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vintageholden
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 5:58 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: W.A carlisle 6101
Re: door buttons... yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeah....

still having trouble posting pics... hopefully sorterd out by next week...
thanks
matty martin[/quote]
where can i get buttons from i like that look
keith
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mrs ratbox
Yes Malcolm - I'm sorry Matty - I have stolen your post here.............
I fitted silicon when I did the mod in '82 - it's been in there ever since - no signs of cylinder wear anywhere in either the brake or clutch systems - just a few little issues you need to be aware of - don't.
It costs an arm and a leg, is not recommended by anyone in the trade and cannot be mixed with any other type of fluid........ good points - no corrosion, and can pour it over your car without one jot of damage.............
Dow Corning used to supply it to limited outlets - then stopped abruptly - I then found Shell marketed it for a short time under their "Ultra" brand - then stopped - fortunately, Harley Davidson use it and it can be purchased from motocycle shops - WARNING, WARNING, WARNING.........!!!!!
If you consider doing this - you must competely drain, clean and flush your entire system - and MUST REPLACE every rubber in the system - if you don't replace the rubbers they will turn to MARSHMALLOW when this stuff makes contact with those which have come in contact with "normal" brake fluid -
End of the day - would I do it again - NO - but I'd flush and change the entire system twice a year - after winter and summer.
Cost per 330 ml = $32
frats,
Rosco
ps yes it's purple - but after 12 months or so without a drain off - goes opaque grey/green............
I fitted silicon when I did the mod in '82 - it's been in there ever since - no signs of cylinder wear anywhere in either the brake or clutch systems - just a few little issues you need to be aware of - don't.
It costs an arm and a leg, is not recommended by anyone in the trade and cannot be mixed with any other type of fluid........ good points - no corrosion, and can pour it over your car without one jot of damage.............
Dow Corning used to supply it to limited outlets - then stopped abruptly - I then found Shell marketed it for a short time under their "Ultra" brand - then stopped - fortunately, Harley Davidson use it and it can be purchased from motocycle shops - WARNING, WARNING, WARNING.........!!!!!
If you consider doing this - you must competely drain, clean and flush your entire system - and MUST REPLACE every rubber in the system - if you don't replace the rubbers they will turn to MARSHMALLOW when this stuff makes contact with those which have come in contact with "normal" brake fluid -
End of the day - would I do it again - NO - but I'd flush and change the entire system twice a year - after winter and summer.
Cost per 330 ml = $32
frats,
Rosco
ps yes it's purple - but after 12 months or so without a drain off - goes opaque grey/green............
Took some happy pix of the wiper motor Matty - with my Box Brownie.......
I lied - the gearbox end of the motor I left alloy - the cap end I sprayed in wheel silver.
All bolts were replaced and re-tapped to take 4mm polished stainless allen key dome heads (theme for carb, fuel pump rocker and side plates - size differs)
I will polish the alloy once more and coat it with the new POR Glisten PC I am playing with at present....
Here are three pix of the wiper motor assy...........



again Matty - sorry - I have stolen your post..............
frats,
Rosco
I lied - the gearbox end of the motor I left alloy - the cap end I sprayed in wheel silver.
All bolts were replaced and re-tapped to take 4mm polished stainless allen key dome heads (theme for carb, fuel pump rocker and side plates - size differs)
I will polish the alloy once more and coat it with the new POR Glisten PC I am playing with at present....
Here are three pix of the wiper motor assy...........



again Matty - sorry - I have stolen your post..............
frats,
Rosco
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mattymartin
- Posts: 841
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 12:49 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: sydney
thanks guys,
craig, the door button are from paul,
(smooth customs is his name on this forum)... i love them & paul has been very patient witn me as i'm only new to the custom thing...
rosco, thanks for the pics... love how clean everything looks in your bay.
how did you get that wiper base soooooooooo shiny... what did you use to polish it...
thanks
matty martin
craig, the door button are from paul,
(smooth customs is his name on this forum)... i love them & paul has been very patient witn me as i'm only new to the custom thing...
rosco, thanks for the pics... love how clean everything looks in your bay.
how did you get that wiper base soooooooooo shiny... what did you use to polish it...
thanks
matty martin
go the wagons....
Hi Matty,
I am an eccentric - I would certainly not point anyone towards this obsession - I no fingers left - I know when it's time to start polishing again - when they grow back to the first knuckle and I can bend them.............
For alloy, I used to use Brite Shine waddig - it comes in a yellow can and the stuff has a magic incredient in it - there are also "bits" in the wadding which somehow bring alloy up very well.
I have found a new product which seems to go just as good a job, but with a lot less work - it's a bit expensive, but well worth the money in my opinion.
this one is called POR Artisan metal polish - it comes in a 120 g tub - I don't think you'll be disappointed - it works great on stainless and also aluminium.
I have used just about every product on the market for metal polishing.
Next to buffing on the bench grinder, I have probably had the best results with this one.............. I don't know yet if it has any "protection" factor.
Meguiar's certainly do, this one does not state protection - only polish.
I have been amazed since my first "nationals" on how the "standard" of vehicle presentation has escalated.
I would like to think I have contributed in some small way to this.
Always happy to pass on anything I feel is in the interest of other people with the passion, Matty..........
and by the way - mine will look in exactly the same awful mess if a hose lets go whilst out on the road - it's just the weeks and weeks it takes to get everything back up again - especially alloyss - they have a bad habit of getting etched - especially if you leave them for some time without knowing they've been "hit"........
frats,
Rosco
I am an eccentric - I would certainly not point anyone towards this obsession - I no fingers left - I know when it's time to start polishing again - when they grow back to the first knuckle and I can bend them.............
For alloy, I used to use Brite Shine waddig - it comes in a yellow can and the stuff has a magic incredient in it - there are also "bits" in the wadding which somehow bring alloy up very well.
I have found a new product which seems to go just as good a job, but with a lot less work - it's a bit expensive, but well worth the money in my opinion.
this one is called POR Artisan metal polish - it comes in a 120 g tub - I don't think you'll be disappointed - it works great on stainless and also aluminium.
I have used just about every product on the market for metal polishing.
Next to buffing on the bench grinder, I have probably had the best results with this one.............. I don't know yet if it has any "protection" factor.
Meguiar's certainly do, this one does not state protection - only polish.
I have been amazed since my first "nationals" on how the "standard" of vehicle presentation has escalated.
I would like to think I have contributed in some small way to this.
Always happy to pass on anything I feel is in the interest of other people with the passion, Matty..........
and by the way - mine will look in exactly the same awful mess if a hose lets go whilst out on the road - it's just the weeks and weeks it takes to get everything back up again - especially alloyss - they have a bad habit of getting etched - especially if you leave them for some time without knowing they've been "hit"........
frats,
Rosco