Painting the light garnishes I think. It's more work and I've got perfectly good chrome bits which I may fit but hey while I'm squirting the etch around.
Or then there is the brushed alloy look.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
The chrome suits most FB/EKs, and the painted garnishes look good on commercials. The silver or brushed alloy look is hard to pull off. Neil's Frankenstein ute is a good example of where silver works, as the bumpers etc tie-in well with the silver wheels. I reckon silver wheels look out of place without the silver garnishes to tie it in.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Looking good, Clay.
I've got computer problems at present and am only able to come online for short spells every couple of days (blasted Microsoft and their updates).
I have not painted stainless.. but have used ribbons of it as stirrers..... I have had success with "Protec 426 Etchpro".
It seems, anything I don't want to paint - gains good results... and things that I do - don't seem to fare as well... maybe, I try too hard.
I note you have the heavy HR draglink .... I hope I am mistaken, but believe you are in for issues with the sump clearance.
I would like to hear of anyone who has fitted a HK/T/G sump/pick up when using the HR draglink and a red motor. I am led to believe it works - but have no confirmation...
Harv wrote:The chrome suits most FB/EKs, and the painted garnishes look good on commercials. The silver or brushed alloy look is hard to pull off. Neil's Frankenstein ute is a good example of where silver works, as the bumpers etc tie-in well with the silver wheels. I reckon silver wheels look out of place without the silver garnishes to tie it in.
Cheers,
Harv
Good point about the wheels Harv. I was only yoking about the brushed. Just the way the shit metal looks off the strip disc. I don’t need the extra work. I’ll leave the stainless around the windows for now, but paint the surrounds now I’ve stripped them. One needs a bit of filler. Someone has tried to lever it out of the headlight opening with a large flat head screwdriver. Came off the fb that has donated a few parts to my projects.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Hi Rosco,
Yes I’ve expeienced the draglink issue on a previous car. Might have to build self a clearanced sumpst some stage. Short term solution will be more agricultural.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
First time spraying anything bones. I basically did the car in three or four sessions, getting better as I went. The Epotec two pack epoxy etch primer is probably much the same as anything to use. You have to really suit up, single use coveralls, carbon filter mask etc. Got a couple of runs getting over zealous on tricky bits like the headlight openings. There are some dry pinholes in some of the filled areas which I’m hoping will fill up with the high build acrylic primer that goes on next.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Big day indeed Clay,
Good stuff. You will be glad to go back to work for a break and stock up with more ice cream sticks. They come in very handy for a multitude of tasks! Look forward to the next instalment.
Errol62 wrote: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:39 pm
First time spraying anything bones. I basically did the car in three or four sessions, getting better as I went. The Epotec two pack epoxy etch primer is probably much the same as anything to use. You have to really suit up, single use coveralls, carbon filter mask etc. Got a couple of runs getting over zealous on tricky bits like the headlight openings. There are some dry pinholes in some of the filled areas which I’m hoping will fill up with the high build acrylic primer that goes on next.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Tip Clay,
Dab the pin holes with a brush after you spray the high build on. You have to rub the primer again so it wont matter with the high spots.
Keen to learn of this Epotech... might have to chase up my supplier.
My current method is Protech 1K etch then acrylic primer and top coats.... I'm not happy with the acrylic primer in heavier builds - it shrinks over the years and my efforts to get that mirror finish often turn a bit rippled...
If I can get a build of 2K down and finish off with a light final couple of coats of acrylic primer to bond - I believe this shrinking issue will be resolved.
great work, Clay - and yes, totally agree with Blacky - workshops are great receptors for paint.. they seem to attract it better than panels at times...
We spend ages prepping, cleaning and laying down a layer of paint.... seems, leaving stuff covered in dust, oil and grit does little to assure us that all this prep work is necessary.