fbekholden.com

Well the gizmo with the red bubble is an air balancer. So you loosen all the linkages and adjust each idle stop so all three carbs are drawing the same volume of air. Some folks use a hose in the intake area of each carb and listen to the hiss to try and get same sound from each carb.
The photo of the spark plugs shows a see through plug that is used to adjust the mixture. Yellow is rich and a blue tinge like in the photo is about right. Do this on plug opposite each carb.

Clay-Throttle cable is set up and working. It is a pull type.
Dave, gizmo is a carburetor air flow balancer.

Thanks for the lesson Brett. At some point I hope to be doing something similar.


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Won't be long Sam.
Lot's of nonsense spouted about multi-carb balancing and how painful it is. All the manifolds have a balance tube on them so if it's a bit rough everything works anyway on average.
Mine on the other hand, are just perfect.

Brett027 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 1:07 pm Well the gizmo with the red bubble is an air balancer. So you loosen all the linkages and adjust each idle stop so all three carbs are drawing the same volume of air. Some folks use a hose in the intake area of each carb and listen to the hiss to try and get same sound from each carb.
The photo of the spark plugs shows a see through plug that is used to adjust the mixture. Yellow is rich and a blue tinge like in the photo is about right. Do this on plug opposite each carb.

A see through plug... well I never, what will they think of next?

Dave

Bought it in the late 70s Dave. They are still available to buy and a good investment for anyone with adjustable mixtures.

You can still buy the colourtune device. A club member has one. He is rumnning CD150 same as you.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Sorry, you said that already.

Have you got a fair idea of fuel consumption with the WW Brett? I would expect an improvement with the triples.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Sorry, no Clay. Haven't done any serious driving as yet so nothing to compare. Car has probably only done 80kms all up. Still chasing mistakes, faults and improvements in drivetrain and rest of car. It's a long journey getting a modded car operating how it should- for me anyway.

Yes it is Brett.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Update on fault finding: determined that rear brakes were not getting any fluid and therefore not contributing to braking. Found that the combination valve was not letting fluid into back line. As a stop-gap removed the offending piece and brakes are now as they should be. Will chase down a replacement valve. Astounded that car could pass both engineering and blue slip brake tests with only the front brakes working. I saw the print outs and it did!

Steering is now considerably lighter. Improved alignment of the box and column to reduce column friction. Pulled the box apart and found the spring missing that should be on the sector shaft. Fellow who did the engineering on the column shaft must have forgotten to put it in when he reassembled the box. I suspect the spring prevents the shaft teeth from binding on the worm drive teeth. Put a 3mm shim on the front shim stacks each side to increase the caster. Dont know what it is in degrees now but much more sure footed on the road. Happy days.
Replaced incorrect thrust bearing. I had installed the one that came with the ckutch kit not realising that cable clutch bearings are different to hydraulic type. Spoke with friendly fellow at Dellows and managed to track down a new one. Still a little bit to do on the linkages to get it smoother but on the right track.
Those few lines account for a week!

Good news. Does that mean you won't pursue ratio change on the steering?

I assume you meant with only front brakes working, not only rear brakes. The only explanation I can think of is that they focus on front locking before rear. Certainly makes you wonder at all the engineer requirements.

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Yes, only front brakes working. Those mighty Torrie discs just corrected post. As for steering ratio change- I haven't worked a solution to it yet anyway so will stay as is for the moment. It's significantly lighter now so may be good enough.

As you step on the anchors, the fronts do 60-70% of the braking (more in FWD cars) due to weight bias. Good news that you found the other 30-40%.

Cheers,
Harv

Brett
My brakes are HQ disk front drum rear, there is a proportioning valve in the line it is designed so if you get a leak in rear it stops fluid from going to rear brakes only front work or vice a verca.In the proportioning valve there is a vavle that togels to stop the fluid it has to be reset to the centre easy fix,talk to brake people or Google