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I can see where that would cause a problem, but there is nothing lighting up when i apply the breaks.....could it be blown globes causing the problem, i know this would be very unlucky for both, but it is possibe.

Also my horn isnt working.....but everything else is...i promise

I haven't got my workshop manual here in front of me ATM to look at the electrical diagram but I guess you've checked the fuses with a test light??

I've got a feeling brakes and horn run on the same fuse but not 100% on that one.

Also, you should test fuses with a test light and not just a visual inspection.

Reason is that some fuseable strips in the fuse can look intact but still be "blown" at the fuse ends where you can't see them.

OK so i have looked in the work shop manual and this is the diagram that was in the book!!!



So it appears the horn and the brake lights are on a different fuse!!! I cant win!!!

Yep,I see now they are on different fuses but still check them anyway.Get a test light and work forward from the brake light side of socket to see where there is,or isn't power when the brakes are applied.Check for a good earth as well.Probably all that I can think of ATM.

Could be the brake light switch or switch adjustment perhaps??

Others might have other suggestions that may help.

There is a 99% chance it is either
1) Fuse
2) Brake switch - located under the dash and operated by the brake pedal
3) Globes
Check these 3 things and if it isnt any of them let us know and we will think a bit harder.

Just a quick update, not relating to fuses or anything......but........MY Springs and Blocks arrived!!!



YAY

So these will have to go in at some stage.......now anything i have to remeber when doing these???

Also.....are the any issues with getting the front springs out and the new ones in??? Tricks...Tips???

Hi Cam,
sorry - I seem to have missed all your fun........

Ok - brake lights - you mention that they don't work until you turn the park lights on - this one is a bit tricky - as you have probably found.........
My initial thought is an earth problem - when for some reason or other, the park light contact also makes the brake light...... you say the brake lights work when the parks are turned on - suggesting to me your problem is between the globe and the switch - I'm no of the opinion your switch is the issue - basically it works.......
There are a number of connectors in the wiring - you may wish to back-track from the globe - but as I previously suggested, make up a test lead.........

I find it unlikely to be a globe issue - if both brake globes are coming on with the parks - I still feel it's wiring/connectors........ I can't see how the parks would work and not the brake lights - they share the same body on the globe for earth............ Can you pull both of them out and use the battery to check................I'll explain if you aren't up to doing this.......

You may wish to temporarily connect a wire from one of the tail-light bolts and fit the other end to a good earth - boot-lid lock plate etc....... it may be that your tail-light assembly is not making good earth......... I don't think this will be the case - but worth a check............

There is a connector up under the r/hs fin which is basically a ball-pointed lug which goes into an "s" shaped connector - give that a very good clean and make sure it's not loose - they can get a bit of condensation in them ....... I'd like to be there to run these checks and show you how to trace wirign issues - just this little barrier called ..... Bass Straight......


Now to your starting issue - basically, there is nothing which should stop the starter motor get the full grunt from the battery - the major connections are not made through the wiring, but the heavy duty leads themselves...... they are .. positive direct from battery to starter motor solenoid.......
negative from battery to engine and through the engine direct to the bolted on body of the starter motor - this goes through the block, bellhousing and mounting bolts of the starter motor - there shouldn't be any issue here....... but..

The positive needs two actions to make the starter work....

the first is the primary - and as John points out, is the purple wire from the ignition key - it supplies 12 v positive to the starter motor solenoid contactor armature. When this is energised (given power) it "pulls" the starter solenoid "in" which does two further actions. It pulls the lever fork of the solenoid and causes the gear to engage with the flywheel.
The other action is to "pull" the contact plate of the solenoid to make the contact for the main (heavy gauge) power lead direct to the starter motor brushes and turn the starter motor over.......................

Our problem may very well be in either the starter motor solenoid or the actual starter motor itself..................

The solenoid contacts do burn out and may not be giving a good supply to the starter motor................ there could also be grease/oil/crud in there and this may create a "resistance" which prevents the motor developing full power to turn the engine over.........

If your starter motor is "poled" then you will most likely have to replace it...this is going to be the most expensive option..........

Cam, without running my tests on your system, I can only offer advice from within this machine............... but they are things to consider........

It is one way of learning how your systems work, rather than pay for it and come away learning little other than the expense........

I am very confident your brake/park and starter motor issues are not related - save for the fact that they are electrical.........

Don't for one minute think you are alone in this - all are vehicles are vulnerable - and usually "Murphy" plays a big role in when it is likely to happen........

John, as for your alternator....... I don't think we crossed the equator did we - did Neptune point that Trident at some of the people who ventured north and thrust this pestilence on generating systems........?

Very happy to get mine home in one bit............... I remember looking at your alternator whilst up there - was quite impressed with it, actually - mine is a little 40 amp Bosch............ internal reg and bought it new when I did the "deed" along with a new distributor adn starter motor........
Guess when one goes - the others may follow suit...... they have all worked faultlessly since '82........ just lucky, I gues.....

Cam, let me know if I can help with more - next to re-wiring your brake lights, you still have some things to check...... I'd try that earth trick first - it still doesn't make sense to me that parks cause brakes to come on - do your parks work without the brakes being applied at the same time - if not- I'd go for the bulb making a good earth with the light assembly....... it could need the extra bit of "attraction" to make the circuit.........

frats,
Rosco

Hey Rosco,

Always a good response from you......you always amaze me

The park lights come on without the break being applied, but when the break is pushed nothing changes......when lights are off or on!!! I do wish that you were down this way, its always easier when you have people to come and offer support and help teach.......I'm more the type of person who learns from watching......which makes it hard!!!

But i will certainly give this a go, and if i cant will talk to some peole who might be able to help!!! Might have to pay them some money for this though ....but thats life!!!

Will give the lowering blocks and springs a lookin though!!!

I will keep you posted, and once again thankyou for your response Rosco.....one day i will make it to a holden day on the mainland and it would be great to meet you and the others on here....i hate Tassie for this reason. I miss out on all the fun

Me again - been out for a few minutes and had some further thoughts whilst away.......

I may have fallen victim to my own advice.................. your tail-light/brake light connectors..............

There is a "chance" that the connectors have been fitted incorrectly........

If you look into the back of the tail-light you will notice a black plastic/bakelite connector which pushes into the metal housing........
There should be two "lugs" on this connector which prevent it being fitted topsy-turvy........ these lugs are not horizontal, but are angled (downwards) slightly from memory...... this is to ensure that the connector can only go into the housing in the correct orientation - effectively brake light comes on with brake and vice versa.........

I remember with one assembly I looked at - these "lugs" had been broken off resulting in two faults.............. one was that they were fitted wrong way around and the other that was they weren't holding against the springs of the connector to the bulb - this meant that when the bulbs were fitted they "pushed" the connector out and broke the electrical contact.......

You may wish to remove the tail-light lens from outside the car - three screws - don't over-tighten when re-fitting or you'll "crack" the lens tabs....

I would suggest making sure that the lights are "off" when doing the next step or you'll blow the fuses.......

Push in and take out the bulbs....... press on the connector with your finger and make sure they push and spring back smoothly - it mus be a "sliding" action so that when the bulb is fitted, they spring out again onto the contacts of the bulb..........

The other thing to look at whilst you are in there, is to check the walls of the socket where the bulbs push and turn into....... there could be some corrosion in there - particularly if the lens gaskets are damaged and water has entered - it becomes condensation when the sun gets on it - and eventually will corrode up the inside........

If all this proves correct - I would still use a test lamp and check your wiring produces power from the brake and tail-light metal connectors - be very careful, Cam that you don't touch any wires or leads from these connectors to the body - anywhere........ or you'll blow the fuse........

Let me know how you go with this.............. The black lead is your tail-light wire and the yellow is the brake light wire - on the bulb, you should be able to see which of the connector makes contact with which connector on the bulb..................

Now the starter motor again, had another think on this........

There is also a chance the brushes in the starter motor are worn - only making partial contact with the commutator (big words Cam - it's the copper part of an electric motor which has all the slots cut across it)
If the brushes are worn, they will not make full contact with this commutator and won't give a good supply of electricity to make it turn at full power..........

You may find and auto elec to check your starter motor - they will charge to get it out - if you are going to do this...... make absolutely sure you disconnect BOTH the battery leads - to be sure........ there is some big heavy wire in those leads and they will "Weld" if left to wander around.......whilst working on the starter motor.......

Removal is done by removing the lead to the starter solenoid to the battery and also the small wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid.
Mechanically you'll have to remove the three bolts holding the starter motor to the bellhousing......the inner one is a bit tricky - you might want to use an extension bar and also a universal joint to drive the socket.......

It should then pull clear and you can take it down to the auto elec and have it checked or hopefully a change-over........ if you want to put a kit through the solenoid - we can help with that - but it takes a little bit of knowledge and experience........

I'd still make absolutley sure your connections are secure and that all leads do not show signs of fraying........

let me know how you go with this Cam - if anyone else has ideas before pulling the starter motor - I'd be very interested to hear (and learn).....

frats,
Rosco

Had an old Landcruiser once that would start fine when cold but would wind over real slow when hot - tried all the usual tricks with checking leads etc, it turned out to be the bolt hole that the earth strap was bolted into on the block was full of rust, I ran a tap down it and put a new bolt in and off it went !
Bloody electricity

So....update time!!!

Some issues arose and now I have a F#*ken problem!!!

Firstly the springs i received were wrong, if anyone wants king springs, part# needed is KHFL01...NOT KHFL06 which is what i received, unless you have a Gemini...yuck

So anyway first time i have attempted to lower a car, and got through the drivers side, using the orginal which i ended up cutting 1 and half coils out of.....looked good. Got to the otherside and had the shock out and was undoing the out control arm (Is that the one???) bolts, and the inner one is a bolt, and the other is the threaded rod with the grease nipple.......So trying to get that out and it was jammed!!!

Now i was undoing it the right way........i promise......and it just wouldnt come........one more big effort and SNAP.......so now the nipple is off and the rod is in there and one side of the car is lower than the other and is undrivable...... Sort of funny i guess but not really

I have an HR front end in another Ute (EK) and was thinking about transfering, but i know it needs new bushes and was wondering the cost and ease in which it is to do this!!! Can i do it myself....any specific tools required for pushing the bushes in and out???

So basically a small job has become a huge job and now the car could end up running a disc front end with a red motor!!! I would retain the crash box for now!!! Any ideas or opinions on best option/s

Please!!!

Cam

Anyone?

Hi Cam,
It would appear you are now locked into two very different aspects - but all is not lost............... I assure you.

I have not ever lowered a vehicle (other than down from a jack, stands, ramps etc.) I know they look "cool"....... and probably handle a lot better around corners, but it's just not me........... and as such cannot help with the issue.......

On the matter of shearing one of those bushes off - we need to know just a little more.........

Can you take a pic of the offending bush and show us what is left, please......

It will most definitely need replacing - and I am a little concerned you may have done some damage to the pivot pin ........ I have just deleted much of what I wrote - as I feel you may be stating you have damaged the upper control arm, bush or wishbone................. it is some time since I have worked on an FB/EK version - for the past twenty six years I have had a ball jointed front end in mine and I am struggling to remember the procedure to remove the upper wishbone........
I feel to remove the spring in either - I would have removed the outer lower wishbone pivot.............. or is this what has been broken........?

Plan A is to get that bush out and replace it - I have done these on my HR front end (actually, late HD ball joint with optional disc brakes)

Plan B is to find a replacement (temporary) spring, remove the one you have cut on the other side and lift that side of the vehicle up again - but finding one exactly the same length and thickness of the remaining un-cut one (the one you can't get out to measure - pointless exercise as if you get it out you're going to cut it and will have the "bush" issue in hand.....
If you can find an original to put back for the short term - if after fitting it, your vehicle still sits "low" you can "pack" probably add just a few extra nylon insulators as required to even the first side up to the problem one........... if I type any more, I'll confuse you......... think that has already lost many reading this - it's me, I know what I'm trying to say, Cam...........

Plan A is of course the correct course - and that is to have someone remove the bush.............. was there any evidence that someone had spot welded the bush to the wishbone - this was a bad habit which started to emerge many years back before we could get over sized bushes - the wishbone threads would wear and they would "pivot" around the bush itself - many people stopped that by welding the bush to the wishbone........

I feel we need to see maybe a couple of pix pretty close up what has happened .......and I do appreciate you stated you were turning in the correct direction - for others learning their way through doing things....... one of our younger and newer lady members impressed me with her saying of......

leftie - loosey, righty - tighty ....... referring to direction of turn for a "normal" threaded bolt, nut or screw.........

One thing I may have suggested before attempting to remove the bush - would have been to spray some RP-7, WD 40, Penetrene etc around the outside of the bush/wishbone for a few days prior - to break any rust and permit the bush to undo......... I still feel there is some sinister other reason for the bush to shear............


All is not lost, replacing the front end is a fairly big job - you'll have to consider either removing or supporting the engine/trans and having the ball joint crossmember modified to take the front engine mount for the grey..........
Brakes will be different, and probably a number of other "issues" all of which I am too tired at present to remember........

hope this helps, Cam.......

frats,
Rosco

ps post us back with those pix and I'll have a think on it.......

Is there anyone that can supply or take a photo of oneside of the suspension with the wheel off or behind the wheel, that way i can then point out, as i am unable to get to the car at this stage???

Please

Ok....so i got hold of my workshop manual....and this is the offending item!!!



A - Shows the part of the thread that has broken off......this is the end with the grease nipple!!! The part thats meant to be attached to take the pin out......

B - Shows the bolt that came off fine, on this side of the pin there is a small amount of thread left.



So as you can see i have an issue and have no idea how i am going to get it out......???????????????????????????????????????????????????????