fbekholden.com

Got a few ww spammers but couldn’t find one that fit. 10mm fits perfectly. Tried two other slaves, both 3/8”.


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Clay,

You're right about the 10 mm spanner thing. I think that both brake pipe nuts and bleeder nipples are made from 10 mm hex stock these days.

Rob

Must have been replaced. Interestingly the old slabs had a cast in post on the bottom to take a throw lever return spring. Newish one didn’t so drilled a small hole in the gearbox mount plate. Previous cars haven’t had this but it is a feature I like and will add life to the thrust bearing.


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Need to source replacement pedal bump stops as well


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ardiesse wrote: Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:14 pm Clay,

You're right about the 10 mm spanner thing. I think that both brake pipe nuts and bleeder nipples are made from 10 mm hex stock these days.

Rob

The new bleeder nuts drive me crazy. Imperial thread, metric AF. Need both sets of flare nut spanners (metric and imperial). Grrrrrr

Cheers,
Harv

Errol62 wrote: Tue Mar 13, 2018 1:41 pm Need to source replacement pedal bump stops as well

I think Rares sell them ?

All too busy with work and volunteering on school camp (to my favourite surf spot). May be able to squeeze in a visit to my favourite shop, Fitch the Rubber Man.


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Rares definitely sell them - brake and clutch separately and a complete accelerator mechanism also.

Pulled off the rear brakes. drums are badly grooved but plenty of meat on them. Top set of shoes are from my collection and got good linings. I’ll use these and the best of the drums I have. Not sure whether I will swap in a good used handbrake cable or fork out for a new one.


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Looking at the condition of the accelerator pedal, seat and trim I reckon the 65000 miles on the clock are right.


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Finally an hours she’d time this arvo.
Rear right wheel cylinder looks quite serviceable after a rub with 400. the bunny is pretty rusty. Thinking about reefing ones off my EH housing but then I’ll probably need to get the front ones done anyway. If I can get away with just cups on the wheel cylinders it will save a few bucks. We shall see.


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Finally all the rear brakes off. Hand brake rear cable is in a bad way probably from paddock bashing. I’ve got two good spares to chose from I’m thinking about trying some shrink wrap over the outers as there are a couple of cracks
Th e car has heavier ek type rear drums but they’re pretty badly grooved. I dug out an fb pair which are in better condition. One of the fb drums is slightly narrower although it accommodates the 1 3/4” shoes. Yet another little inconsistency in the model run no doubt. I want a matching pair of course.

This stock 186 exhaust manifold has had the studs cleaned up, de-burr, acid bath, Ranex rust converter and a few coats of heat paint. I wonder how long it will look like this.

My plan to use the 2” exhaust from the sedan has fallen in a hole partly due to the fuel tank location difference. There will need to be some cut and shut engine pipe wise as well.




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One for the bowfins: I am having trouble identifying the vacuum advance port on this HJ 202 carb. The booster port has an additional tube to provide manifold vacuum but I need a signal from the venturi before the throttle valve of course. It has the carbon canister vent to fuel bowl which has been plugged. I believe this is the largest single barrel strommie fitted to a red at 1 7/32” venturi.


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It appears I just need the right plug to fit this port on the left I’ll friction fit some bundy or brass tube with a bit of gasket goo for luck.


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Clay,

Your photo of the brake drums - you have two side by side, one finned, one not. They're both FB/EK drums, but the narrower one below them is an FE/FC drum. Do not use.

HJ carburettor - you've drawn a blank with me. The threaded vac. advance fitting on the throttle body of pre-emissions carburettors has been deleted on this one. Do not attempt to use the port on the side of the main body. It's right at the waist of the venturi, which is the wrong place to take the vacuum advance signal. I'm beginning to think that this is an ADR27A (aka HX) carby. What size are the mounting studs? If 5/16", and 1/2" AF nuts, then it's definitely an emissions model. The tube at the inlet manifold just below where the carburettor bolts on is for the PCV hose. I think the emissions motors only applied vacuum advance to the distributor if the engine coolant temperature is within a certain range of fully warmed up, and the car was in top gear, and if . . . and if . . . Basically, you need a higher degree to work out the plumbing.

Rob