fbekholden.com

Yep I knew that comment would bring peeps out of the bushes, but the fact is an A section belt profile is rated at up to 5kw. I used to deliver 8 tonnes of wheat in a 3 tonne tipper too. Stuff can be done.

Just to do the math: a 130 amp alternator flat out is only 1.56 kw, pump might be 1-1.5kw and engine fan would use much, much more as revs rise. So without a fan you are safe as houses Harv.

While thinking things over Brett, don't forget your idle Amps, the Bosch 120 i had has a rating sticker 25/120A, that's why i have a Mechman 170, tested 147 @ idle, 178 @ 6,000 alternator rpm, does the job nicely, but had to convert to multi rib set up.

Got me interested in power draw. 5kW is only 7hp. That’s not many ponies. If you use the Gates sizing method (I did this in the Norman thread – link here to the calc method: http://www.conbear.com/dc/file/Vee%20Belt%20Design.pdf) with early Holden type pulley diameters, you get that an A-belt is only good for 8-10hp. Close enough to 5kW.

For the fan, Engine Master did some tests (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXdLgaFXZzs&t=736s)
Fixed steel blades: 30hp
Clutched fan: 14hp
Plastic flex fan: 24hp
(Stiff) aluminium flex fan: 20hp
Fixed steel blades without shroud: 22hp (this is probably closest to an FB/EK fan… though ours is only 4-bladed. Say 20hp).

How does a factory 60’s Detroit small block with fixed steel fan (like the Engine Master test) pulling 30hp not destroy a factory A-belt that is only good for 7-10hp?

Along the same lines, MotorTrend did some tests on water pumps too (https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp- ... uck-power/):
Aftermarket ally water pump: 4hp
Iron water pump: 8hp (the FB/EK pump will be a little smaller… say 6hp).

This would say that the factory Detroit water pumps should bust an A-belt on their own too.

My guess is that the belt ratings that manufacturers publish are waaaaay on the safe side for belt loading.

Cheers,
Harv

You can count on 'Project 2' to be discussing the most varied of topics.
Thanks for the additional info Harv.

On my car build, the A section belt will just run what it was designed for. An engine drive air con compressor - if fitted, will have a seperate belt. Everyone else's car is up to them

Brett027 wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 10:35 am

On my car buil, the A section belt will just run what it was designed for. An engine drive air con compressor - if fitted, will have a seperate belt. Everyone else's car is up to them

That would be my modus operandi , most Holdens with power steer or air had an additional belt - makes sense to me to maintain that train of thought if space allows. If I had my time again I would have modded the firewall and moved the motor in the rattler back an inch or 2 to improve weight distribution and allow clearance for ancillary drives and fans etc.

Bungendore Hot Rod Builds has made modifications to the mounting point today to raise the gearbox 12mm and move forward mount 10mm also. CRS crossmember was not quite right for my mods, but more about my placement of the engine mounts. Steering misses sump on full locks so happy camper.

Good solution if you have room to clear tunnel, as it should also improve the driveline angles, specifically if you are lowering the rear. Lowering rear leaf springs by re-setting flatter tends to point the pinion flange down relative to stock height. Lifting the rear mount will help compensate by pointing output shaft up slightly.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Well, the answer to the positioning of rubber mounts to engine question is pretty clear. If the crossmember mount brackets are welded in the same place on each side, the engine will skew to the drivers side with the rubber mounts both bolted to the front or back. If the drivers is behind and the passenger side in front the engine sits square to the firewall.

Some pics of space etc.

Whatever you do , make sure you keep track of what mounts and brackets you use, I dummied up the rattler with the old motor and when I went to fit the new one it was miles out , had to root around for ages finding the right sized brackets to get it back to where it needed to be .....

From memory Blacky it is easiest to install motor with only the engine plates on and the rubber mounts in place. So all I have to do is keep track of the engine plates- which is within my capabilities still .

Mucking around with radiator today. Slight changes to top guard brace to allow core to move in about 10mm. Similar mods to kframe around radiator bottom. Have ended up with a reasonable clearance from fan. Some finessing yet to do but basic plan is there.

Motor is still lifting up at front quite a bit. Really noticeable when the fan is in place with rad on. Can anyone enlighten me on how much (if any) a red motor kicks up at the front from level?

5degrees I reckon. As a guide you can bolt on the 186S manifold. Carb flange should be level.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

By your photo, relative to the radiator, mine has a bit less slope although still some. Would be nice if you could bring the rear up and/ or slightly lower the front. Balance up the clearances with a bit of shimming and slotting and will be good.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Put the manifold on this morning and low and behold its got a very slight slope the other way. About a width of a piece of paper brings the bubble level, so I'm thinking I'll leave it where it is. Happy days. Thanks Clay.

You could see if you can get the bottom of the radiator a bit further forward I suppose.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie