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Nick
Copper or Bronze would look fine
Think about a white or silver roof, or even in the flash down the side

If you went to the Brisbane Hot Rod show, the Bronze Hudson I built was on display. This was one of the nicer Bronze orange colours we could find. And it needs body mouldings to break it up and give it that little more life

Dont go for white anywhere in your interior if it is to be an everyday drive car, been there many years ago. Looks fantastic, but no matter how careful you are it seems to get dirty.

Hey Paul (I think its Paul.. theres two of ya on here )

I didn't go, although saw the thread about it a while back and also some pics of it on BoostCruising.com.

That isn't the colour i'll be goin for.. More like.. ahh.. hang on i'll have to find a pic for ya.

Here we go..



On the interior.. well.. i most likely won't have people in the back at all.. if not very rarely.. and during work hours i'd have a big blanket on the seats.

A mate of mine has white interior in his HD and he reckons its easy to clean.. vinyl as well no leather or anything.

Hey Nick, Get in touch with the rexona distributors and tell them your thoughts and they might chuck in some dollars to have a promo style car!!! based on the deoderant can use grey/silver interior with the grey/silver flash to break up all that bronze.
Just my 2 cents
Cheers Theo Z...............

Theo,

Interesting idea.. i wouldn't run the name rexona on my car though

I duno about the silver though.. as i duno what trim i'm gona be runnin just yet and i don't know if i even want it two toned.. i don't think i do.. still decidin..

I think the copper with a white interior would look unreal though..

Another update..

First up is the very near completed sill..

Ass bit.. still have to do a little panel to make that body line "flow".



Inside the rear gaurd.. Looks shit in the pic but looks pretty wicked in person.



Front. The Subframe will be all smoothed out when i do the rust repairs on it. Will look like it never rusted at all when i'm done with it.

Also incase your all wondering.. that cut is because we accidently welded the subframe to the body. Oops.. So we just cut that and when the subframe comes off i'll trim that top plate off and reweld it to the body. Also gona end up welding a peice of angle to the body as a mounting point so instead of a bolt going against 2mm sheet its gona be going against 5mm angle.



Front Gaurd repair.. Rust cut out..



Makin the first parts of the patch.





About to be tacked in..



Second half..



Filled..



Same gaurd.. lower front.



Lower rear..



Driver door ready for filler.



Rear drivers side door..






Car from the front so far..



And the rear..



Our work area.. took this at night so you can't see everything but anyway..

Nick
You are doing a great job fabricating the pieces needed and getting all the rust repaired.

But the shot of the filler being applied to the headlight area of the front guard is not the way to do it.

Where ever you need to apply filler, the complete area and say 50mm around the outside of the application zone must be sanded. All primer and contamination from welding must be removed.

Otherwise you risk all these repairs delaminating, as the surface underneath will not bond properly with the filler.

This may happen in days weeks or possibly months, and it can lead to totally stripping the car back and starting over again. This is devistating after all the work that has been put into a job and money on materials including paint.

I have seen this happen several times over the years.

Hey,

I didnt do that. Dad did the bogging and the area that we needed to be bogged has now been sanded down. Will get another pic for ya tomorrow.

It hassnt been bogged over shitty burnt primer.

DeadSled wrote:Hey,



It hassnt been bogged over shitty burnt primer.

..........................................SC is not saying that, he is pointing out that filler should be applied over and only over clean bare metal, and that means not even surface rust. And he did mention that it will cause you problems again later, as it will.
I read his reply as a tip and not to knock your work, it maybe a good time to inform your dad what he needs to do, to prevent all the hard work you guys are doing from failing in the future.

Regards John

Deadsled, John's right 100%!
Paul was giving you handy tips for a long lasting repair that you won't have to re-repair again only months down the line. (believe me I know 'cause I DID have bog over a not properly prepared area & had to do it again )
These blokes here are NOT knocking your work, the're helping with years of experience only.
Scotty.

P.S. you're doing a better job than I could ever hope to do!

Fellas i know you all mean well..

I'll get another pic of the front gaurd today and you can tell me then if it still needs to be fixed or not. It still needs a bit more sanding anyway.. its all been sanded down to just the tiny like 10cm wide area it needed to be on so the rest is infact bare metal now.

I'll show yas later

Still haven't gotten pics.. i've been lazy.

I'm in need of a few parts.. for some kustom shit.

1 x EH / EJ Bonnet..

7, 9 or 11 EH or EJ Over-riders.

kustom stuff a.. i wonder what all those overriders are for

Good luck with the overriders, they seem to be very sought after nowdays for grills etc.

be specific with the bonett as EJ are different to EH