fbekholden.com

jarvo wrote:still looking awesome Cant wait for the next update...

Actually have a quick question so i might give you a call or PM... I have to cut out the rust in the rear window channel like you did in your pics, wanted to find out how hard it was to repair and what steel you used to reair it with

Cheers
Jarvo

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Not a problem mate...........Give me a call anytime ......0409253202

Harv wrote:Yep, Doller's right on the money. The original steering column floor plate puts the steering column too close to centre for V8's - I had to make a custom floor plate for my SBC too. It's still pretty tight on that back exhaust port (the CRS headers go almost vertical once the gas leaves the flange plate).

Cheers,
Harv.

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When I first setup the green car I used the motor that I will eventually fit into this one and reworked the steering column plates for that setup.......it was set up with a hr type front end.........then I heard about about the frontend that Southern Chassis Works were producing, no bump steer ,small turning circle, coil over setup and awesome looks ,So off I head down to see Heath and ended up coming home with one .....the motor sits about 20mm lower with the SCW frontend so puts it right over the rear exhaust port .....looking at it today , and not a problem....you guys are correct drop it down a little more and across to the right and with luck it will fit .......the headers I have are the CRS ones Harv...............wouldnt mind a set of them stainless ones Heath has just fabbed up .... and yes it will still be a little tight ......but thats the way I like it ..huh huhh
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u37 ... f0222b.jpg

Got the tailshaft back ...........should take around 500 horses .......built by Geoff at Knox Tail Shafts in Knoxfield ...reasonable price ,quick and courteous ...... Would recommend Geoff anytime ....Fingers

must be getting close to be thinking ummmm what colour

Got into the shed at the weekend got the handbrake sorted ...used the standard FB handbrake pull lever....I tried using 1 straight cable from the lever to the rear cables but it was too hard to activate... I reckoned it needed some leverage
.... so found a handbrake setup from the donor car and cut off the cantilever hand brake mechanism from the cross member and reworked it and welded it into place on the new chassis rail to activate the FG F0rd handbrake setup on the 9'' diff ...nice and easy to use .......got to get 2 new cables made up to suit .......The guys at Auto Cables .Yarrambat ..Phone 03 94361260 ...can make any cable , very quickly and at a very reasonable price ...They made the first cable ...used thicker cable, supplied and fitted the ends and got it to me in the mail the next day ....great service ..



Fitted up the Desert Cooler aluminium radiator ...had to trim the sides of the radiator panel and cut out 30mm from the radiator cross member ......result is 20mm clearance between radiator and water pump shaft ..can probably trim another 10 mm from the water pump shaft ......the engine has approx 20mm between the right hand bank and the fire wall ...overall very pleased with fit .......Started on the steering column by moving it back 20 mm into the interior giving me some clearance to the steering shaft and extractors just got to move the column down and across 20mm and its a goer ....next weekend finish and hook up the steering .....

Hey Fingers, did you keep the original piece that the front handbrake cable screws into? went to fit the cable up you give me and mines missing!!

Hey fingers nice fit up with that radiator. Lucky your not running rear mount thermos
I had to make a new radiator support wich got me 20mm clearance, trim 10mm off the sides of the thermo shroud to sit it closer to the radiator and also cut that extra 6mm off the water pump shaft, Then had to cut out the back of the bonnet latch and redesign that so it didnt hit the top of the ally radiator

I am going to start organising my brakes. . Brake lines . . Junctions . Booster . . And proportioning value. . . What did you guys use for brake lines . . Standard size or larger etc etc

Doing the same now. By the looks of all the previous posts 3/8 is the go.
I was looking at Stainless Braided line from the orient on Ebay but dont know about the quality . Might just go Stainless hardline all the way.

I just redid all the brakes in my Chev and used 3/16"brake line and 3/8" fuel line.

I made all my brake lines with 3/8 then went to get the ends put on and they couldn't because the lines were too big, so I had to throw them away and start again with 3/16 line .
I'd check the fittings before trying to go too big.

there's a few of us by the looks about to do the brake lines etc, 3/16 is the go and fuel lines 3/8, i'm still looking at pipe benders, i think i've found the flaring tool toolhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INDEX-TYPE-BRAKE-PI ... 43b1b6e2da

Blacky wrote:I just redid all the brakes in my Chev and used 3/16"brake line and 3/8" fuel line.

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Hey Blacky ........did you use a dual master cylinder ...did you run 0ne 3/16" line to the back or 2 .....I assume all your fittings would be double flaired ......I have a flaring tool but never used it to do a double flair .what steel ddid you use mate ....stainless or mild steel .......Fingers

Trev wrote:I made all my brake lines with 3/8 then went to get the ends put on and they couldn't because the lines were too big, so I had to throw them away and start again with 3/16 line .
I'd check the fittings before trying to go too big.

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Thanks Trev ............I was hoping 3/16 would be the way t go ...I can utilise most of the standard FB fittings ...what proportioning valve did you use mate ...did you have rear discs ...Fingers

I did have a HQ proportioning valve when i had the remote booster, then I changed to a HK V8 booster and master and got rid of it all together.
HR disc front and HR drum rear.