Morning Guys,
I recently bought a FB that's been in a shed for 23 years, its a bloody cracker and in fantastic condition, little bit of surface rust but other wise 100%!! Having trouble getting fuel to the carby, not sure wether to just keep winding it over, not sure how long it will/should take to get from the tank. i've pulled the bowl off the pump and sprayed some fuel in there to wet everything??????never dealt with something thats been sitting for so long. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
looking forward to getting the old girl on the road!!!
Sitting for 23 years???
Firstly, welcome to the forum Luko. Sounds like you scored a great car! Make sure you post up some pics in "My FB/EK" 
.
Check this link on how to post pics: http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194
If it has been sitting for 23 years the fuel tank will need to be flushed out and the carby should be striped and cleaned, I would say the jets are blocked, accelerator pump will be us etc.... Carby kit for the old strombergs are cheap (about $20).
Easy way to check if it is the carby is to remove the aircleaner and pour about a teaspoon of fresh fuel in the carby, give the motor a crank and it should at least try to start (try a few times)...... if not then you may have no spark.
hope it helps
. Check this link on how to post pics: http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194
If it has been sitting for 23 years the fuel tank will need to be flushed out and the carby should be striped and cleaned, I would say the jets are blocked, accelerator pump will be us etc.... Carby kit for the old strombergs are cheap (about $20).
Easy way to check if it is the carby is to remove the aircleaner and pour about a teaspoon of fresh fuel in the carby, give the motor a crank and it should at least try to start (try a few times)...... if not then you may have no spark.
hope it helps
Thanks for the help guys, I'll be having a play with it on the weekend and hopefully getting it fired up. I've got to do all the brakes and the clutch as well, they were seized up...........took me 2 hours to get her rolling on the trailor.
here are a few picks, enjoy!
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 0-1258.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 0-1514.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 1626-2.jpg
here are a few picks, enjoy!
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 0-1258.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 0-1514.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 1626-2.jpg
Appears to be a nice old survivor there Luko and from the photos it would appear that it may be a colour called "desert glow " ( sort of a pinkish colour ) with maybe a faded dartford grey flash ??.I have a desert glow/sandstone beige FB here in the shed.
Throw up the paint and trim codes on the body plate on the passenger side firewall and we'll decode her for you.
A bit of fuel down the carby as others have suggested will see if the engine is in a startable condition when its wound over.
To start a car that's been sitting for so long, firstly I'd be using a 50:1 two stroke fuel mix which allows some needed oil ( in the fuel mix ) to assist in lubricating dry engine internals that have not seen oil for at least 23 years.
After start and run you can go to straight fuel after approx 5 minutes or so after the engine internals have sprayed/pumped enough engine oil around the moving parts for sufficient lubrication.
I know this may sound stupid but make sure you have enough fuel for the pickup in the tank to be able to pickup the fuel, as a dry tank would probably take 5 litres of fuel to get near the pickup sock in the tank.
If you are having trouble getting fuel to the carb ( assuming you have fuel in the tank and not using a fuel container connected to the fuel pump bypassing the fuel tank ) you could try pressurising the fuel tank a bit with compressed air and a rag at the filler neck.
Use the air pressure gradually, don't give it full 100 psi as it may cause some damage??
Pressurising the fuel tank will force fuel through the pickup,fuel line,fuel pump and hopefully into the carby.Also , sometimes fuel pumps need to be primed to get them to "suck" ( as I recently had to do with Billy Blackarrows 305 Chev )
So pressure forcing fuel along the line to the pump will effectively prime the pump as well.
If there is a hole somewhere in the fuel line or leakage in the pump the resultant fuel leakage from pressurising the tank will show where the hole/leakage is.
Check the flexible fuel hose from the steel fuel line end to the fuel pump ( in the engine bay )to ensure it hasn't got a hole in it as it will suck air with a hole there instead of sucking fuel.Even a pinhole will cause problems.The fuel pumps are lazy buggers, if they have a choice, it's easier for them to suck air than fuel!!
Check condition of the cork ( sometimes rubber ) gasket underneath the glass fuel bowl to make sure it is in usable condition and not shrunk/hardened over time.
It also could be the rubber diapragm in the fuel pump is "holed" due to the deterioration/shrinkage of the internal rubber diapragm over time.A new or recoed fuel pump is the only way to fix this.Sometimes but not often, a bit of shit can make its way across the fuel pump internal valves and can also stop a pump from working.
Ummmmmm.......... what else..........??
If you have trouble getting spark try cleaning the ignition points in the distributor with some wet and dry paper as they can corrode/rust over time especially if they have been held in the open position for 23 years.
Unless the car was shedded 23 years ago due to an engine problem then I'm sure with a bit of work and patience you will be able to get it going once again.
Hope this lengthy bit of dribble from me helps you,
Cheers,
Terry.
Throw up the paint and trim codes on the body plate on the passenger side firewall and we'll decode her for you.
A bit of fuel down the carby as others have suggested will see if the engine is in a startable condition when its wound over.
To start a car that's been sitting for so long, firstly I'd be using a 50:1 two stroke fuel mix which allows some needed oil ( in the fuel mix ) to assist in lubricating dry engine internals that have not seen oil for at least 23 years.
After start and run you can go to straight fuel after approx 5 minutes or so after the engine internals have sprayed/pumped enough engine oil around the moving parts for sufficient lubrication.
I know this may sound stupid but make sure you have enough fuel for the pickup in the tank to be able to pickup the fuel, as a dry tank would probably take 5 litres of fuel to get near the pickup sock in the tank.
If you are having trouble getting fuel to the carb ( assuming you have fuel in the tank and not using a fuel container connected to the fuel pump bypassing the fuel tank ) you could try pressurising the fuel tank a bit with compressed air and a rag at the filler neck.
Use the air pressure gradually, don't give it full 100 psi as it may cause some damage??
Pressurising the fuel tank will force fuel through the pickup,fuel line,fuel pump and hopefully into the carby.Also , sometimes fuel pumps need to be primed to get them to "suck" ( as I recently had to do with Billy Blackarrows 305 Chev )
So pressure forcing fuel along the line to the pump will effectively prime the pump as well.
If there is a hole somewhere in the fuel line or leakage in the pump the resultant fuel leakage from pressurising the tank will show where the hole/leakage is.
Check the flexible fuel hose from the steel fuel line end to the fuel pump ( in the engine bay )to ensure it hasn't got a hole in it as it will suck air with a hole there instead of sucking fuel.Even a pinhole will cause problems.The fuel pumps are lazy buggers, if they have a choice, it's easier for them to suck air than fuel!!
Check condition of the cork ( sometimes rubber ) gasket underneath the glass fuel bowl to make sure it is in usable condition and not shrunk/hardened over time.
It also could be the rubber diapragm in the fuel pump is "holed" due to the deterioration/shrinkage of the internal rubber diapragm over time.A new or recoed fuel pump is the only way to fix this.Sometimes but not often, a bit of shit can make its way across the fuel pump internal valves and can also stop a pump from working.
Ummmmmm.......... what else..........??
If you have trouble getting spark try cleaning the ignition points in the distributor with some wet and dry paper as they can corrode/rust over time especially if they have been held in the open position for 23 years.
Unless the car was shedded 23 years ago due to an engine problem then I'm sure with a bit of work and patience you will be able to get it going once again.
Hope this lengthy bit of dribble from me helps you,
Cheers,
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
-
Aussie Bob
- Posts: 8276
- Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 12:28 am
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Sydney
Hi Luke once you get the fuel sorted and fresh oil, make sure you have had the radiator serviced, hoses checked and thermostat replaced or removed.
While doing the other work fuel, water, place some diesel oil in the spark plug holes and turn the engine by hand for some time, let it sit and keep doing that for a few weeks. Then gradually wind it over with the plugs out. let it idle for a day or two without overheating.
Fingers crossed, as it may have been laid-up due to an engine challenge.
Steve
Please give me a call if you like. I need your ID tag pics for out research
While doing the other work fuel, water, place some diesel oil in the spark plug holes and turn the engine by hand for some time, let it sit and keep doing that for a few weeks. Then gradually wind it over with the plugs out. let it idle for a day or two without overheating.
Fingers crossed, as it may have been laid-up due to an engine challenge.
Steve
Please give me a call if you like. I need your ID tag pics for out research
Thank you all for the help, i didnt really know if i'd get a responce for a couple of days. Hopefully i'll be get things sorted in the next week.
i'll take some photo's of the interior, thats where the real magic is. looks like it left the show room yesterday. its red and white with little stars in white on the top half of the bench seats and hood lining and not a tear in sight!
once again, cheers for your help!
i'll take some photo's of the interior, thats where the real magic is. looks like it left the show room yesterday. its red and white with little stars in white on the top half of the bench seats and hood lining and not a tear in sight!
once again, cheers for your help!
-
matches
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 6:08 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: port macquarie, nsw
congrats on the great find, and welcome to the forum! 
so is it going to be a fix whats broke, give it a bath and a good polish then go enjoy it? or are you going to get carried away with a full resto like so many others of us
?
looks awesome, especially all the little extras (dual wind deflectors, telescopic mirrors, looks like nasco mudflaps)
cheers, luke.
so is it going to be a fix whats broke, give it a bath and a good polish then go enjoy it? or are you going to get carried away with a full resto like so many others of us
?looks awesome, especially all the little extras (dual wind deflectors, telescopic mirrors, looks like nasco mudflaps)
cheers, luke.
-
lunatic leprechaun
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 12:18 am
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: carine, western australia
here's a few pic's of the interior, qualities not good.
not quiet sure what to do with this one, but getting her running, brakes and clutch un seized and go from there i guess.
cheers all for the advice!
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0755.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0754.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0754.jpg
not quiet sure what to do with this one, but getting her running, brakes and clutch un seized and go from there i guess.
cheers all for the advice!
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0755.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0754.jpg
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu12 ... 5-0754.jpg
