Well yesterday i went to start the ek and it started fine after 2 years sitting around. But i went to change in into gear when i crunches.
So to be safe i didn't jam it into gear incase i carn't get it out. Plus the brake hose has a hole in it so i carn't stop either.
What could be the problem, The clutch is only 10years old with about 2000miles on it. The clutch pedal feels good so am stumped on what is the problem.
Gear box problems?
Gear box problems?
Car 1:
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion
Couple of things spring to mind, it possibly needs adjustment or its stuck because its been sitting.
Maybe you need to pull the inspection cover underneath and get some one to push the clutch and see if there is enough movement to free the pressure plate.
Maybe you need to pull the inspection cover underneath and get some one to push the clutch and see if there is enough movement to free the pressure plate.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
As DR said the clutch plate could be stuck to either the flywheel or pressure plate or both.Can be a common problem after a few years sitting idle.
There are a few things you can try if it is frozen to the flywheel/pressure plate.
You can't really see the clutch in action to check if it is frozen as the original grey 3 speed has a one piece bellhousing.
Have you bled the clutch cylinders to ensure that there is no air in the system?Any air in the system and you will lose the clutch operation.
You could try clutch slave cylinder adjustment to see if that helps.
There are a few things you can try if it is frozen to the flywheel/pressure plate.
You can't really see the clutch in action to check if it is frozen as the original grey 3 speed has a one piece bellhousing.
Have you bled the clutch cylinders to ensure that there is no air in the system?Any air in the system and you will lose the clutch operation.
You could try clutch slave cylinder adjustment to see if that helps.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Fill clutch master cylinder with new brake fluid.
Jack up front of car, place jack stands under neath front of car for safety.Underneath the car around the bellhousing area of the gearbox on the drivers side you will find the clutch "slave cylinder",It will have a rubber hose going to it from a steel line going up to the clutch master cylinder.
On the "slave cylinder" there will be a bleeder valve with a hole in the end which from memory is about 3/8th inch spanner fit (or 7/16th
) .
Sometimes the hole can be blocked by dirt rust etc so it may have to be cleaned out a little with something like a nail or similar.Occasionally the end of the bleeder valve will be blocked inside the slave cylinder so the bleeder valve will have to be complately unscrewed out to unblock the internal end hole.Don't overtighten when you do it back up, they will break/strip threads easily if overtightened.
Have an assistant sit in the car and get the assistant to push the clutch pedal down to the floor and keep the pedal to the floor.
Then you undo the bleeder valve with the spanner to let out any air and then you tighten it up again.
The assistant then lets the clutch pedal up again and then depresses the clutch pedal again to the floor.
You then undo the bleeder valve again to let out any air and then do up the bleeder valve again.
Assistant then lets clutch pedal up agin after you've retightend the bleeder valve.... blah,blah,blah etc.
Do this process until all air has been bled from the system.May take around 10 to 15 times of pumping the pedal to bleed the clutch system fully.
It's advisable to put a clear piece of PVC hose over the end of the bleeder valve and into a coke bottle or similar when bleeding and also wear some safety goggles as well because if brake fliud gates in your eyes it stings like hell.You will see the brake fliud and air coming out of the bleeder valve into the hose and will be able to tell when its fully bled if no bubles of air is coming out.
Wash brake fluid out of your eyes with water if it gets into them.
Best thing you could buy yourself is a Gregorys Scientific publication workshop manual ( number 67 ) from any spare parts place ( around $60 or so ) as it will describe how to bleed brakes/clutch better than I have
Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you
Jack up front of car, place jack stands under neath front of car for safety.Underneath the car around the bellhousing area of the gearbox on the drivers side you will find the clutch "slave cylinder",It will have a rubber hose going to it from a steel line going up to the clutch master cylinder.
On the "slave cylinder" there will be a bleeder valve with a hole in the end which from memory is about 3/8th inch spanner fit (or 7/16th
) .Sometimes the hole can be blocked by dirt rust etc so it may have to be cleaned out a little with something like a nail or similar.Occasionally the end of the bleeder valve will be blocked inside the slave cylinder so the bleeder valve will have to be complately unscrewed out to unblock the internal end hole.Don't overtighten when you do it back up, they will break/strip threads easily if overtightened.
Have an assistant sit in the car and get the assistant to push the clutch pedal down to the floor and keep the pedal to the floor.
Then you undo the bleeder valve with the spanner to let out any air and then you tighten it up again.
The assistant then lets the clutch pedal up again and then depresses the clutch pedal again to the floor.
You then undo the bleeder valve again to let out any air and then do up the bleeder valve again.
Assistant then lets clutch pedal up agin after you've retightend the bleeder valve.... blah,blah,blah etc.
Do this process until all air has been bled from the system.May take around 10 to 15 times of pumping the pedal to bleed the clutch system fully.
It's advisable to put a clear piece of PVC hose over the end of the bleeder valve and into a coke bottle or similar when bleeding and also wear some safety goggles as well because if brake fliud gates in your eyes it stings like hell.You will see the brake fliud and air coming out of the bleeder valve into the hose and will be able to tell when its fully bled if no bubles of air is coming out.
Wash brake fluid out of your eyes with water if it gets into them.
Best thing you could buy yourself is a Gregorys Scientific publication workshop manual ( number 67 ) from any spare parts place ( around $60 or so ) as it will describe how to bleed brakes/clutch better than I have
Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
that doesn't confuse me one bit FB MAD . I will give this a go tommorrow. Also is there a way to block the back brakes from working as there is a split in the rear hose in the diff. As when i get the gear box working i need to stop incase i run into the fence or worse the house.
Car 1:
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion
ARRRGGGGHHHHHHHHH 
the $*#@ bleeder vavle hole is threaded i went to screw it back in when it just keep on turning and fluid leaking every where.
the $*#@ bleeder vavle hole is threaded i went to screw it back in when it just keep on turning and fluid leaking every where.Car 1:
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion
1961 Holden EK restoring in progress
Car 2:
1990 Excel, ex Option audio demo car.
Car 3:
1927 Dodge fast four pickup.
Car 4: 1987 Nissan HR31 GTS-X skyling coupe
Car 5: 1979 Datsun C210 skyline with a L20et conversion