Managed to get last weekend off and used the opportunity to get my arse down to canberra to put all the chrome work in for the EKs.
If anyone is interested in a break down of costs for the stainless steel and chroming please let me know and ill put a list together.
The sum totals ( please note this includes all the sedan pieces and 50% of the van pieces - parts already pulled off the van fronts) came to the following totals -
For stainless steel , repairs and polishing - $4400ish
For the chrome repairs and re-chroming - $5000ish
Let me know if you guys want the breakdown, as I have the polishing itemised and I can call the chrome place for the breakdown.
The price of Chroming/polishing
The price of Chroming/polishing
[b] Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc. [/b]
Mephious,
HAVE I READ THIS RIGHT.
Thats Not FIVE THOUSAND BUCKS for chroming
Mate a get a few more quotes from other places, and check their work out as well. Before taking out a bank loan.
I had a price from Enware in Syd, cost for all chrome on sedan $2350.
As long as all the diecast sections were not to pitted.
Regards John
HAVE I READ THIS RIGHT.
Thats Not FIVE THOUSAND BUCKS for chroming
Mate a get a few more quotes from other places, and check their work out as well. Before taking out a bank loan.
I had a price from Enware in Syd, cost for all chrome on sedan $2350.
As long as all the diecast sections were not to pitted.
Regards John
There's nothing as Sweet as a EK V8
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Smooth customs
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This is like comparing paint materials, motor oils or tyre brands.
You only get what you pay for.
The process of plating has changed greatly in the last 50 years, and will not last as long as previously because of the base materials and quantities of surface coating applied.
State and goverment regulations on toxic materials have made these changes.
Some platers (a very small amount) will pay the higher costs of materials and the possible high fines if any contamination happens.
A higher price is also based on how picky people are now getting with the expected quality of a finished part.
Platers serving the smash and repair industry have an acceptable level that the average person will just look at and if its shinny that OK.
Stainless repairs are based on the skill of the person doing it, compared to the damage on the pieces supplied. And again the expected level of finish dictates the price
I deal with the price comparison debate every time a customer wants a price on a job.
And the most common comment is, but it only cost me $$$$$ in 1982 when I did my last car!
But at the end of the day each and every one of us has an expectation on what we expect to pay for what we want, and when it is over that amount we must be getting ripped off?
You only get what you pay for.
The process of plating has changed greatly in the last 50 years, and will not last as long as previously because of the base materials and quantities of surface coating applied.
State and goverment regulations on toxic materials have made these changes.
Some platers (a very small amount) will pay the higher costs of materials and the possible high fines if any contamination happens.
A higher price is also based on how picky people are now getting with the expected quality of a finished part.
Platers serving the smash and repair industry have an acceptable level that the average person will just look at and if its shinny that OK.
Stainless repairs are based on the skill of the person doing it, compared to the damage on the pieces supplied. And again the expected level of finish dictates the price
I deal with the price comparison debate every time a customer wants a price on a job.
And the most common comment is, but it only cost me $$$$$ in 1982 when I did my last car!
But at the end of the day each and every one of us has an expectation on what we expect to pay for what we want, and when it is over that amount we must be getting ripped off?
price
I haven't gone to any platers yet but will one day.
My head is still numb from these wheels problems... I may be reading Mephious wrong, but I think he's saying it's for nearly two cars..
If you split the chrome price of 5K for two, or nearly two - I suppose it's middle of the road.
Stainless is another deal...... depends on what you give them to be polished - if it's just a buffing - I'd be buying a bloody great bench grinder and some buffing wheels and dressing blocks - you got if for life - or until you push one piece in the wrong way and it gets speared back at you..
If they're damaged - there's a mountain of labour in that and they will charge for how long it takes to get it up to what you ask for.
My head aint on right at the moment... as I said, I may have read it wrong.
Dee
My head is still numb from these wheels problems... I may be reading Mephious wrong, but I think he's saying it's for nearly two cars..
If you split the chrome price of 5K for two, or nearly two - I suppose it's middle of the road.
Stainless is another deal...... depends on what you give them to be polished - if it's just a buffing - I'd be buying a bloody great bench grinder and some buffing wheels and dressing blocks - you got if for life - or until you push one piece in the wrong way and it gets speared back at you..
If they're damaged - there's a mountain of labour in that and they will charge for how long it takes to get it up to what you ask for.
My head aint on right at the moment... as I said, I may have read it wrong.
Dee
thats bad, i got a quote when i started my car for 300 per bar, that was just over 3 years ago, ive heard prices have been rising lately, i wonder if they will stick to the quote.
as for metal polishing the thought of getting it done never crossed my mind, i have plenty of spare stainless, i bought a real nice 2nd hand bench grinder from a swap meet for $45, much more usable than the $30 supercheap job i had before, i bought some poolishing wheels and some cutting and finnishing bars, all up under $100, i havent done it yet, i understand its deadly and side trim can accidently be converted to coil springs but i would prefer to do that than pay 4400.
just think, thats $9400 to make your bright bits a bit brighter., just buy a car with recently chromed chrome, rip it of and chuck the car.
by the way, i remeber my mum got a bumper bar repaired and rechromed for her datsun 200b in about 1990, pretty sure it was $75, and the bar was pretty cactus.
i am sure there is info somewhere on the net with info on repairing and polishing trim if you search around.
as for metal polishing the thought of getting it done never crossed my mind, i have plenty of spare stainless, i bought a real nice 2nd hand bench grinder from a swap meet for $45, much more usable than the $30 supercheap job i had before, i bought some poolishing wheels and some cutting and finnishing bars, all up under $100, i havent done it yet, i understand its deadly and side trim can accidently be converted to coil springs but i would prefer to do that than pay 4400.
just think, thats $9400 to make your bright bits a bit brighter., just buy a car with recently chromed chrome, rip it of and chuck the car.
by the way, i remeber my mum got a bumper bar repaired and rechromed for her datsun 200b in about 1990, pretty sure it was $75, and the bar was pretty cactus.
i am sure there is info somewhere on the net with info on repairing and polishing trim if you search around.
polishing stainless
Dave - you need a bench grinder -something with a lot of grunt.
you can do it by hand - but I think others have told stories of wearing out fingers.
I done it with a GEC bench grinder - an arber to fit to the grinder and screw the buffing wheel onto, a stitched rag buffing wheel and some light green buffing compound - all from Bunnings
If your stainless is damaged or scratched - you'll have to knock it out as best you can - this is going to be the bit you probably won't get done real good. If its just a bit scratched you might be able to sand it out with some fine wet and dry - but don't go in with the heavy stuff - youll just put deeper scratches into it - i used 800 and 1200 then onto the buff - if you sand too deep youl see ripples in the finish where you sanded once it is buffed up.
If you have good stainless without dings - you can buff it up like new - or better by dressing the buff with the compound and putting the stainless to the buff - you'll need a fair bit of trial and error to get it right - and the stainless will get darned hot - wear gloves.
Now the IMPORTANT bit = do NOT push anything into the wheel as it is coming at you - you must work AWAY from the diriection of the wheel - or at least make absoulutely sure any end or edge is not going to get picked up by that bloody fast spinning wheel - it will do one of two things - spear you through (good think its stainless - at least you won't get tentnus) or bend/buckle/brake or send the bit into the house three doors up..... please Dave - this is a VERY dangerous way to make stainless new.
But - it comes up almost as good as chrome.
Hope this helps - please, please, plesase take every word of warning here - your body is no match for that wheel.
hope this helps
Dee
you can do it by hand - but I think others have told stories of wearing out fingers.
I done it with a GEC bench grinder - an arber to fit to the grinder and screw the buffing wheel onto, a stitched rag buffing wheel and some light green buffing compound - all from Bunnings
If your stainless is damaged or scratched - you'll have to knock it out as best you can - this is going to be the bit you probably won't get done real good. If its just a bit scratched you might be able to sand it out with some fine wet and dry - but don't go in with the heavy stuff - youll just put deeper scratches into it - i used 800 and 1200 then onto the buff - if you sand too deep youl see ripples in the finish where you sanded once it is buffed up.
If you have good stainless without dings - you can buff it up like new - or better by dressing the buff with the compound and putting the stainless to the buff - you'll need a fair bit of trial and error to get it right - and the stainless will get darned hot - wear gloves.
Now the IMPORTANT bit = do NOT push anything into the wheel as it is coming at you - you must work AWAY from the diriection of the wheel - or at least make absoulutely sure any end or edge is not going to get picked up by that bloody fast spinning wheel - it will do one of two things - spear you through (good think its stainless - at least you won't get tentnus) or bend/buckle/brake or send the bit into the house three doors up..... please Dave - this is a VERY dangerous way to make stainless new.
But - it comes up almost as good as chrome.
Hope this helps - please, please, plesase take every word of warning here - your body is no match for that wheel.
hope this helps
Dee
Thanks Dee. Have to do the stainless on the nanny hat ( visor ) the only down side is it wont come off without a fight, so I guess I will have to do it on the visor. I wonder if these cloth wheels are available for drills. Off to bunnings, aaarrrhhh bunnings. 
Thanks again, now I have a starting point.
Thanks again, now I have a starting point.
Whatever....:(
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mrs ratbox
strike up another plus for rat cars that's another $9400 in my pocket
if it's just the chrome off the cars, no extras it sounds a little steep considering one is a van and the sedan has no side moulds/strips
i think they're like everybody else since this resurgence in popularity in old cars, i had a side mould/strip off a '63 impala repaired it was squashed flat about 8" cost me $45
about 6 years ago the same guy quoted me $250 to repair an EK mould/strip with simular damage about 6 months ago 
that's another $9400 in my pocket if it's just the chrome off the cars, no extras it sounds a little steep considering one is a van and the sedan has no side moulds/strips
i think they're like everybody else since this resurgence in popularity in old cars, i had a side mould/strip off a '63 impala repaired it was squashed flat about 8" cost me $45
about 6 years ago the same guy quoted me $250 to repair an EK mould/strip with simular damage about 6 months ago -
FCOV6
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Holy crap, i'm glad i have 2 of every bit of stainless and chromed metal for my FC. I paid $100 for a 98% rust free vehicle, less than 1K for the chassis kit /R&P kit/ Celica 5spd kit, 1K for a full bare metal respray and maybe a couple of hundred in misc. parts, no way i'd be paying 4-5k to get the trim and chrome redone