So i've now got a HR, and a seperate HR front end.. which is good because i can now get my HR into primer and sell it for more than i paid for it. BOOYEAH.
Anyway.. i picked up a HR Front end for 65 bucks last night.. and its got the mounts moved back already. I checked the measurements and when you look into the engine bay.. the measurements are as follows..
Outrigger edge to left side of left mount.. 100mm..
Outrigger edge to right side of left mount.. 107mm..
Outrigger edge to left side of right mount.. 100mm..
Outrigger edge to right side of right mount.. 107mm..
Now.. My mates Dads EK is 85mm / 100mm instead of 100mm / 107mm.
His has a motor and m20 already installed.
Does this mean mine is for say an EH / EJ instead.. or what?
Measurements For Red Engine Mounts On HR Front End.
?
, I'll check it out tomorrow, and try make more sence of it 
, trev 
mounts
Hi Nick,
if I'm reading your post correctly - you are stating that there is a difference of about 20 mm or so between yours and your mates?
I remember vaguely that the mounts on a HR xmember tjo suit an EH were slightly forward to that used for ours....... if that's so, then the greater distance from the leading edge of the xmember to the mounts would be for ours - not the EH ....
Mine are mounted just short of level with the rear edge of the xmember - at the outer end.
Mine were done by Rare's a long time ago - in the early days - and I feel they may be a bit too far forward - my HR draglink just hits the EH sump on full r/h lock.......
If it's 20 mm further back - your's may be the same - the two BIG issues are the clearance from the water pump bolts to the radiator and from the cylinder head to the firewall....... that's what you are more concerned with.
what to others think?
See if I can find a pic of my mounts ......pm me please.
Dee
if I'm reading your post correctly - you are stating that there is a difference of about 20 mm or so between yours and your mates?
I remember vaguely that the mounts on a HR xmember tjo suit an EH were slightly forward to that used for ours....... if that's so, then the greater distance from the leading edge of the xmember to the mounts would be for ours - not the EH ....
Mine are mounted just short of level with the rear edge of the xmember - at the outer end.
Mine were done by Rare's a long time ago - in the early days - and I feel they may be a bit too far forward - my HR draglink just hits the EH sump on full r/h lock.......
If it's 20 mm further back - your's may be the same - the two BIG issues are the clearance from the water pump bolts to the radiator and from the cylinder head to the firewall....... that's what you are more concerned with.
what to others think?
See if I can find a pic of my mounts ......pm me please.
Dee
Nick - take a pic and post it . A picture tells a thousand words so they say.
Do you have a motor out of a car that you can sit on the crossmember to see if it will fit the mounts ? If they have been welded on in the wrong spot it may be easier to just cut them off, bolt the front end in -bolt the mounts to the motor and sit it in the engine bay then tack the mounts onto the crossmember. That way you know they are in the right spot.
Do you have a motor out of a car that you can sit on the crossmember to see if it will fit the mounts ? If they have been welded on in the wrong spot it may be easier to just cut them off, bolt the front end in -bolt the mounts to the motor and sit it in the engine bay then tack the mounts onto the crossmember. That way you know they are in the right spot.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
my mounts
Hi Nick,
you seem to be in a pickle with this?
Most of us have our mounts all roughly in the same spot - I'm not sure what your mate's father's ones have been fitted for, I also think they may be for either EJ or EH.
My mounts are mounted almost to the rear of the cross-member - I know Rare Spares at Brunswick did mine - I got them done - they used a "jig" which they told me was set up for early Holdens - FE through to EK.
I saw some others whilst down there which were for EH and they were definitely more forward than the ones fitted to mine.
I only have a few pictures of them, but these may help.....
You can see that they have been "built up" slightly to get the height position.
You will also find that these are early mount posts - the newer ones (engineer preferred) are a much larger post..... but these are mine.....
frats,
Rosco
you seem to be in a pickle with this?
Most of us have our mounts all roughly in the same spot - I'm not sure what your mate's father's ones have been fitted for, I also think they may be for either EJ or EH.
My mounts are mounted almost to the rear of the cross-member - I know Rare Spares at Brunswick did mine - I got them done - they used a "jig" which they told me was set up for early Holdens - FE through to EK.
I saw some others whilst down there which were for EH and they were definitely more forward than the ones fitted to mine.
I only have a few pictures of them, but these may help.....
You can see that they have been "built up" slightly to get the height position.
You will also find that these are early mount posts - the newer ones (engineer preferred) are a much larger post..... but these are mine.....
frats,
Rosco
Hmm. The mounts on mine aren't nearly as high as yours Rosco.
The idea of fitting the motor into the engine bay with the crossmember in.. how will i know how far forward or back is correct? I know that you can get custom tailshafts so that isn't the problem.. but like.. how far towards the firewall is "correct"?
I'll have to get pictures tomorrow..
My mates Dads car is an EK ute.. with a 179 in it. I know its correct since theres a motor already there.. plus mine don't look the greatest welds or anything. Looks ok.
I know it might be difficult for you guys with wiring and shit all around the motor.. but if you can get a measurement from the front of the crossmember (radiator side) to the engine mounts.. same as i've done.. when looking directly in get the drivers and pass side left and right measurements of the mount and we can compare em.
The idea of fitting the motor into the engine bay with the crossmember in.. how will i know how far forward or back is correct? I know that you can get custom tailshafts so that isn't the problem.. but like.. how far towards the firewall is "correct"?
I'll have to get pictures tomorrow..
My mates Dads car is an EK ute.. with a 179 in it. I know its correct since theres a motor already there.. plus mine don't look the greatest welds or anything. Looks ok.
I know it might be difficult for you guys with wiring and shit all around the motor.. but if you can get a measurement from the front of the crossmember (radiator side) to the engine mounts.. same as i've done.. when looking directly in get the drivers and pass side left and right measurements of the mount and we can compare em.
Nick.
No wonder I was confused 
, you were saying the measurement was from the "outrigger" not the "crossmember"!
Why dont you get an engine crane and swing the motor in there and see where to put the mounts, Trev
.
, you were saying the measurement was from the "outrigger" not the "crossmember"! Why dont you get an engine crane and swing the motor in there and see where to put the mounts, Trev
.[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/trevwood/WOOFTOsmall.jpg[/img]
Woofto Car Club Member No3
Woofto Car Club Member No3
measurements
Just thinking outside the box, Nick.
Any measurements we throw at you are going to be different - it will depend on what size the mounts are....... make sense - you should be asking the distance to the point where the engine bracket/mounting face bolts are.
I'm with Trev - take a peek at your mates Dad's ute and lift your engine and place it to suit.
And like Blacky says - tack it in a number of spots then fully weld it in when the engine is out of the way.
Tailshaft - mine is from an LJ Torana auto - yoke senters were 50 3/16"
Mine fits well and truly into the rear of the box (Aus 4) - if anything - I'd like it to be 1/2" shorter..... but in all the years its been there - the wear marks on the shaft haven't gone to fully in.
If you are running either an auto, an all sincro 3 or an Aussie 4 you'll need a 27 spline yoked output shaft.
EK manual has fewer splines not sure about EK auto - others will know.
I think the EK auto is also 27 splines - but not 100%
EK manual tailshaft is 53.1 " yoke senter to senter
EK auto tailshaft is 50.04" senter to senter.
The other end of the tailshaft - depends on diff senter - you'll need a later "U" bolt-up tailshaft rear uni for anything after EJ.
If you go much later senter - you'll probably need to fit a long bolt into the lower r/hs hole in the rear axle housing - late model senters have a longer casting where that bolt is.
I'm going out on a ledge here - before you do anything permanent - phone an engineer - don't give your real name for now.
The police wanted my engine/trans alignment in a straight line to the diff - this was at a time before engineering was necessary.
It may pay to at least contact a vehicle systems engineer in your state and have a chat with him........ don't want to throw cold water all over your project - but at least you'll know what you're up for ....... don't have to give your name - and shop around - apparently they differ from engineer to engineer.
That's about all I can help with Nick in this area.
Other blokes may have some more ideas.
Dee
Any measurements we throw at you are going to be different - it will depend on what size the mounts are....... make sense - you should be asking the distance to the point where the engine bracket/mounting face bolts are.
I'm with Trev - take a peek at your mates Dad's ute and lift your engine and place it to suit.
And like Blacky says - tack it in a number of spots then fully weld it in when the engine is out of the way.
Tailshaft - mine is from an LJ Torana auto - yoke senters were 50 3/16"
Mine fits well and truly into the rear of the box (Aus 4) - if anything - I'd like it to be 1/2" shorter..... but in all the years its been there - the wear marks on the shaft haven't gone to fully in.
If you are running either an auto, an all sincro 3 or an Aussie 4 you'll need a 27 spline yoked output shaft.
EK manual has fewer splines not sure about EK auto - others will know.
I think the EK auto is also 27 splines - but not 100%
EK manual tailshaft is 53.1 " yoke senter to senter
EK auto tailshaft is 50.04" senter to senter.
The other end of the tailshaft - depends on diff senter - you'll need a later "U" bolt-up tailshaft rear uni for anything after EJ.
If you go much later senter - you'll probably need to fit a long bolt into the lower r/hs hole in the rear axle housing - late model senters have a longer casting where that bolt is.
I'm going out on a ledge here - before you do anything permanent - phone an engineer - don't give your real name for now.
The police wanted my engine/trans alignment in a straight line to the diff - this was at a time before engineering was necessary.
It may pay to at least contact a vehicle systems engineer in your state and have a chat with him........ don't want to throw cold water all over your project - but at least you'll know what you're up for ....... don't have to give your name - and shop around - apparently they differ from engineer to engineer.
That's about all I can help with Nick in this area.
Other blokes may have some more ideas.
Dee