Ol' Rusty - FB/EK Sedan

[In the Shed]

I always enjoy your posts mate , love how you turn out quality work using no high dollar equipment

Yep always learn something ….. thank you

[Errol62]

Great job!

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[oz_ek]

[quote=
Weld, grind and sand. Now the rest of it looks even more like crap.

At least you have satisfaction of knowing its not full of bog!! ...Well done!

[funkyscooter]

Thanks all for the support. Wish I had some of that expensive kit Blacky, but the hardwood is pretty handy for a lot of things.
Next the boot lip on the divers side. There were a couple other sections I replaced further up, but this is the main one.

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Cut out and used the piece as a template, traced two sides onto some understated coloured card.

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Then bent a piece of fresh 1mm at 90 degrees, attached my guides and off into the shrinker stretcher.

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Some time later, added the third side which was also bent to fit and then welded it all together. Several trips to the car to make sure the section wasn't deforming with all the heat.

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Removed the channel from the vertical upright (it was only left there as a guide). Final fit looks a bit off at the top but it twists around into place by hand so that will do.

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Made the channel for the bottom of the boot lip in 3 sections. Bent it to 90 degrees, stretch edge to create subtle curve, trim excess off stretched edge , then roll the top over with a bit of hardwood. Light stretch with hammer on top and it holds its shape.

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Much measuring and guessing, tack and weld and two become one.

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Before tacking the third section, as it looks symmetrical, I tried it on the other side. I also flipped it over but the result was pretty much the same.

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Ok, so I have a slight problem.

[funkyscooter]

Drag the boot lid out of storage and checked the new section to it. It's close - well close enough and symmetrical.

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So previous repairs to the rear of the passenger side, plus me compounding that error with my new channel on that side, have pushed the rear inwards. Bit of hammer and dolly and shrinker on the rear skin, and a hammer to the passenger upright brace. Put boot lid on to use as a guide, then cut out the rest of the bottom lip, and use what ever is handy to re align the rear lip.

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Weld the remaining 2 sections of the lip on, Trim, check, trim, check, crawl under car, and with the lid closed mark were I have to cut off the excess at the front. Cut with grinder, final check fit. Balls.
Cut twice, check once. Cut it too short in places as it seems the grinder has a mind of its own at the end of the day when you just want to get things done. Got a bit of filling in to do.
Next day. This is my second attempt at tacking my compromised bit in. Those tacks just want to pull the metal in, even with a bit of hammer and dolly to stretch them out.

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Tacking in with big gaps is a pain. Copper behind each weld, tack, close boot to check, hammer/dolly to correct. Next. Do four, realise it is slowly pulling in all the places you can't get a dolly behind, cut welds and try again. This took 4 hours.

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Came back to it the next day, and spent another six hours filling it all in, dealing with the inevitable blow throughs, grinding as I went, and generally questioning why I did just remake the 3 sections that I messed up. But got there in the end. It's better, but still a bit wavy if you really look closely. At this point I choose not to.

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[Errol62]

Looks good from here. Better than factory no doubt.

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[Orange Betty]

Looks great to me. Your perseverance and ingenuity is amazing.

Dave

[funkyscooter]

Other thing I noticed when I put the boot lid on was how tight the gap was on the passenger side. Thanks to Belly760 (Sam) for posting about Fitzees Fabrications. Have watched a few of his videos and the one about gapping door panels got me motivated to have a crack at this. So with a little knowledge gained, I drew some cryptic markings on the metal.

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With the 1mm cutting disk I (carefully) cut along my pencil line. With the metal relaxed, the gap was even bigger now.

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Got my assistant to hold the panel in place while I tacked it.

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Checked and it looks like the 1mm cut is enough.

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Weld.

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Grind, DA, and done.

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There are a few other spots I could do on the sides as they are a lot tighter fit than the top and bottom, but I don't think I'm going to push my luck.

[Errol62]

Nicely done

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[FireKraka]

Mate I think you are a bit hard on yourself your skill level and perseverance are amazing I hope I can get as good or close, results on my wagon.
Love your posts please keep them coming.

[funkyscooter]

One more thing I noticed with the boot on. My repair near the centre rear where the brace attaches was a bit off. viewtopic.php?p=266339#p266339. This has left a high spot between the centre of the top of the boot lid and gutter. More cryptic notes one car.

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Easier to see in close up with a line scribed using the boot as an edge.

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Out with the callipers and a rough measure. More (less) cryptic notes on the car, marking the rise in 0.5mm increments

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Need to take out roughly 4mm at the highest point, so 1 pass with the 1mm blade will not be enough. But started with that. Used a bit of 10mm square steel (ground to 8mm) as a guide for the grinder.

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This should be low enough to allow me to re weld the brace behind the gutter, but not too low into the gutter to get a decent go at it in the front.

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And this is the result of not following your own method. Blade wandered high. Not sure what I was looking at at the time. Not too much damage.

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[funkyscooter]

For a quick test, I tacked this 1mm cut to see if it was going to work just gapping it like I did on the side. Seems to be ok. So I cut more out of the centre, pushing the top of the brace out of the way as I went. You can see the brace behind the cut, floating in the gap.

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Clamped and tacked. The gutter is now sitting a lot higher, but the edge looks good relative to the boot lid. Hopefully that is not an issue for the boot rubber.

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Welded in. Nearly out of gas.

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Dressed down the welds a bit and happy with the result. Once the lid is off I'll finish cleaning it up and I think that is boot lip done. Started the first corner Oct 24th last year. Time flies.

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[Errol62]

Excellent work again Scott.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[BS]

Awesome work!


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[funkyscooter]

With the boot back off, here is a final look at the gutter

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Had a couple hours today so sandblasted the front door hinges.

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Noticed one of the springy plates that holds the door fully open on the top drivers side hinge had a stress fracture.

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First thought, as the other springy thing works, was to put it on the passenger side where road camber and gravity do most of the work anyway. But as the welder was handy, and with a screwdriver wedged in place.....

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Ground down for a neat finish. Spring plate thingy now clamps nicely. I'll still put this hinge on the passenger side though.

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