Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Rob. Great, I just love accessing those upper bolts. Other cause I heard is worn clutch shaft gear teeth.

I speculate the pump leak is down to my slackness in previous installation but will look at the surface as you suggest.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Got some more sensible tyres for the 7" steelies on the rear. They are even taller, being 205/75R14 Maxxis MA-1, same as front only they are 195 rather than 205.

The old Roadstone Dark Horse II-60 235/60R14 98H tyres went on the 8" CSA jellybeans. Should be ok for Saturday night specials unladen with some guard massaging.

Just to sort the front steelies offset issue now.ImageImageImage

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Atempt three at the fuel pump, actually I've lost count may be four.

The diaphragm shaft oil seal still wasn't seated correctly and also sustained a tear. Off to the parts bin and got an Australian made Goss one with metal top and outlet for rubber fuel line.


Thinks..........

Took metal top off and fitted revalved glass bowl top from my refurbished one. New gasket and much goo. Fingers crossed.

Went for a blat on new rear tyres. Now 50mph on Speedo is about 106kmh due to taller tyres. This thing is a real highway chariot now. Anyway up old Willunga hill no rubbing whatsoever.ImageImage

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mph
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by mph »

Errol62 wrote:Got some more sensible tyres for the 7" steelies on the rear. They are even taller, being 205/75R14 Maxxis MA-1, same as front only they are 195 rather than 205.

The old Roadstone Dark Horse II-60 235/60R14 98H tyres went on the 8" CSA jellybeans. Should be ok for Saturday night specials unladen with some guard massaging.

Just to sort the front steelies offset issue now.ImageImageImage

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Nice one any reason you went taller , could you have gone a 215 or just less hassle with 205. My 7s will be ready for me next week and trying to work out 205 or 215s for the back. But not as tall as yours.

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Just wanted the white bands Clint and this was what turned up. They do fill up the guards well but I'll be putting the 235s back under there in due course and put up with some rubbing for the sake of the looks.

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Blacky »

I went taller on my ute too Clint, I prefer t he look as it fills the guard better IMHO
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by mph »

I tried a few different combo a few months back but ready to buy tyres now. I tried 205 60 14 on a 7" rim , 23.7" tall tyre which did leave a wheel arch gap i was 50/50 on looks it reminded me of the low profiles on fat 13s look which i dont mind its old school look.
I also put a 215 65 14 on 8" steel , 25" tall tyre thought it looked a tad to tall maybe my ride height being lower at the back end or something maybe more suited for a fb ek with rake. big rear boots to suit old school rake. I didnt quite dig it as much.

Currently i have 185 70 14 on 6" steel 24.2" tall.
I find this my most desired height which is also the same height as a 215 60 14 24.2" this is the size im chasing but cant seem to find in a white wall.

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Last edited by mph on Sun Aug 01, 2021 9:28 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by mph »

Blacky wrote:I went taller on my ute too Clint, I prefer t he look as it fills the guard better IMHO
What size boots on the ute now mate.

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Hearing you on the white bands Clint. Maxxis all round 75R14. Front 195 on 6" "speedway" offset reversed stock ht rims. Rear 205R14 on 7" deep offset suit LC rear axle.

Front and rear are real tall. Fronts need to change the offset to stock +25mm to pass inspection and anyway it's best setup relative to scrub radius and bearing shear loading. Rears are sensible now with 205 tyres and don't rub at all.

Car rides pretty comfy and stable at speed. Handling is fairly neutral. Bit spin happy on the inside rear particularly in the wet of course.

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Drove ute down to Middleton for malibu club rally this morning. Concerning noises started coming from the gearbox when shifted from first up to second. Sounded like it was going into reverse or noisy synchro ring. Medium pitch engine speed whine in neutral with clutch pedal to floor. Fiddle with shifter as I drove and it went away. Only to return more prevalent. Got home no problem. Just concerned.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by ardiesse »

Clay,

Gearbox, linkages and column are stock-standard, aren't they? Is there oil in the gearbox? (have to ask anyway, because gearboxes can lose most of their oil in a few thousand km of highway . . .)

Whine in neutral with clutch disengaged can only be the throwout bearing, as the gearbox internals aren't rotating. Unless, of course, your clutch is not releasing properly. Does it feel like you beat the synchros when you change gear, and does it crunch into first or reverse?

A friend's EH, way back when, used to make a loud whirring sound when the clutch was released, or just at the point of engagement. The driven plate was loose on the hub, and chattered between the flywheel and pressure plate. But you have a new clutch . . .

Put the rear axle up on stands, disconnect the linkages at the gearbox, shift the 'box into first, start the engine. Listen for strange noises with the clutch released and engaged. Switch off. Select second gear at the box. Start up again. Repeat. And again for top gear.

Rob
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Will try Rob. Thrust bearing and clutch have 7000km on them, mainly highway do not much work at all. All torqued to spec.

When reversing in go shed just now, selected reverse, no noise, driving. Clutch depressed and noise started. Let clutch out without shifting, still in reverse. Noise ceased as clutch started to engage. Doesn’t seem like thrust bearing though.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by EK283 »

Clutch fork needs to have some play and a spring on it to keep the bearing off the pressure plate.

7000kms with the bearing spinning will wear it out rather rapidly. I had a similar experience with a thrust race slide, it was worn on an angle and and the race was constantly engaged because it was cocked and touching the pressure plate. It also crunched between gears. Took the gearbox in and a couple of times before I found it !!!!!!

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Brett027 »

Sounds like you are on to it Greg. You'd have to guess it can really only be the throwout bearing or the clutch falling apart. Unless the input shaft is loose either in its bearing or the flywheel bush??? They are pretty much the only bits that are impacted by clutch movement?
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by ardiesse »

Sounds to me a bit like clutch plate chattering. Same symptoms as the EH. I diagnosed the EH by taking the clutch cover off (and with battery disconnected!) getting friend to disengage the clutch while I wobbled the driven plate facings with my fingers. But you can't do that with a grey gearbox.

Didn't you say that the input shaft splines were rusty and the clutch plate wasn't a sliding fit on the splines?

(Goes back in topic - no, different topic)

" Except the clutch is bit sticky prolly due to the brisk nature of spline preparation and or tight spigot bush It's been sitting in the back of a Ute 30 years so spline bit manky."

I wonder . . .

Rob
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