Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Still got the nail punch up my sleeve Harv


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Got the back lifter out. Feels good in the bore. Looks good. Slight scuffing in one direction. Should I try and clean up the scuffing with emery 800 1500?

It won’t seem to compress at all.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

.ImageImageImage

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Traced coolant leak to upper thermostat housing. I used a later alloy upper and lower. I have an o ring seal one I will put on.

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Ayhem..... Seems the apprentice neglected to install thermostat housing gasket. Anyway gave the master mechanic (that's me) an ex use to install bling. Won't go too hard on the feller. ( names withheld to protect the hapless).

Pushrod turning now but number 2 exhaust same issue.Image

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by ardiesse »

Clay,

:clap:

Good thing the motor's running.

You can't push the plunger down by hand in a hydraulic lifter once it's got oil in it. You need Tool Number 6A40-something for that.
And not all the pushrods in a red motor turn always. I've stripped down many a red motor where some lifters stayed in the same position as when installed, and I could see the worn stripe where the lifter went over the cam lobe's peak. It's a subtle thing. The lifter base is supposed to be convex, with a radius of curvature of about 40 inches; and the cam lobes are supposed to be ground with a slight taper, so that the centre of effort is off-centre. These two features make the lifter and pushrod spin.

It's not the end of the world if the pushrod doesn't spin.

Shh - I have resurfaced lifters using a wood lathe, an angle grinder and a fine-grit sanding disc, followed by wet'n'dry on a sheet of glass. It only takes the merest kiss of the sanding disc to make the lifter base convex.

Rob
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Well that's a relief....
Thanks Rob. New you'd chime in eventually. I will give it 20 minutes at 2000rpm. See how that goes.

About the only thing left now is the need of a clutch hose, which I will get tomorrow by hook or by crook.

Wheel align Tuesday.Image

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

My god sounds sweet!!!

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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20 minutes is a long timeImage

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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by In the Shed »

Errol62 wrote: Sun May 30, 2021 4:32 pm My god sounds sweet!!!

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Must be the side pipe 😊
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by ardiesse »

Clay,

Powerbond Brakes will surely be able to make a clutch hose if they don't have them on the shelf. Or you could put a big loop in a Humpy brake hose.

Rob
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Don’t worry rob I’ll get one


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

FE FC brake tubes are 1/4” too aren’t they?


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

I recall it being an issue when you fit the later brakes.


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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Car Parts Plus ordered me a clutch hose pn H699.

They managed to sell me a new slave as well. $60 Taiwan ally. Damn, now I have to take the old slave off. On the bright side I can bench bleed it.

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