Das boot. The trans hose came in handy again for the tail light wires where they go outside. Flooded the fuel sender depression with fish oil as I've seen too many of these rusted out. Need a grommet for cabin entry.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
All day on the wiring and probably most of tomorrow the way I’m going. A few minor issues with the dash portion, otherwise pretty good.
The flasher telltales were swapped left and right so just un taped and re-routed. The high beam warning lamp globe doesn’t want to go in and I’ve broken two. Using globes from the half dozen old looms lying around here. I had forgotten what a pain the cigarette lighter is, essential piece of equipment that it is.
Can’t wait to kick it in the guts.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
When it comes time to power up your newly re-wired ute, use a battery charger instead of the battery. This will ensure that the smoke stays well-compressed inside the wiring where it belongs. You'll be able to check the parking and tail lights, the instrument lights, the dome lights, the stop lights, and possibly even the indicators before the charger current-limits. The headlights will only glow dimly with a battery charger, which will be enough to verify that they're not shorted. The ignition system won't be as obvious, but if your charger has an ammeter, the ignition should draw maybe 4 A. Then when you're satisfied that you have no shorts to ground, connect battery and let rip.
(A very light smear of Vaseline around the openings for the small lamps in the dash will help no end to install the lamp holders.)
It's such a cruddy system getting these things to work properly - Ive got an issue with my indicators now since I got the new housing - can't get them to work now - ah well - more tinkering when I get it back.
Process of elimination innit. Got most things working. No dash lights. Already swapped out one light switch so I’m about to get to know them better. I tried cleaning the points on the bi-metal circuit breaker on the first one didn’t make a difference. The rheostats are prone to fail. I’ll get there. Off to car part heaven to get new globes. The sockets in the indicator tell tales appear to be wedge type rather than traditional bayonet.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
With the instrument light rheostats, WD-40 goes a long way. But it's not the wiper-to-resistive-coil contacts that give trouble, it's the rotary connection to the wiper near where the shaft goes through.
Blacky wrote: Mon Nov 02, 2020 5:17 pmI ran an earth wire from the dash body to the car when I did my ute because of dodgy earth related wiring issues , that fixed it.
A gentleman does not motor about after dark - Joseph Lucas, Prince of Darkness (or at least it should have been ).
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Blacky wrote: Mon Nov 02, 2020 5:17 pmI ran an earth wire from the dash body to the car when I did my ute because of dodgy earth related wiring issues , that fixed it.
A gentleman does not motor about after dark - Joseph Lucas, Prince of Darkness (or at least it should have been ).
Cheers,
Harv
The Lucas headlight switch on my Rudge was labelled OFF/DIM/FLICKER
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Thanks for your advice and whimsy folks. More progress. Emptied another litre of cavity wax inside guards and doors and rear floor. Went for a drive! Just up the street to mates place and back but got top gear coming back down the hill. Plenty of sound from driveline which I haven't touched yet, but all works.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie