WALLY'S EK

[gpi]

Errol had his leak after refurb, id check that too...

[ardiesse]

Rob,

You wrote,

"I did notice though the rears are backed right back to the cylinder and drums are still touching - is this normal or has an incorrect component slipped in - front has a couple turns off fully backed off - I’ll have to run it around and wear the pads down a bit to get it fully freed up - just seams odd - was same before replacing"

This is a notorious "gotcha" of early Holden rear brakes. What's happened is that you've backed the adjusters off too far, so that the handbrake lever and strut are holding the shoes apart, instead of the adjusters. The primary shoe then moves upwards under return spring tension, and - the brakes drag, making you think they're adjusted too tight. The cure is to disconnect the rear handbrake cable at the gearbox, back the eccentrics all the way off on both sides, and then adjust the shoes like you would for the front brakes. Only adjust the eccentrics after the rear brakes are properly adjusted; and after that, reconnect the handbrake cable and gradually sneak up on the right adjustment with the threaded end of the front handbrake cable: adjust up until the rear brakes begin to drag, and then back the nut off a few turns so they don't any more. If done right, the handbrake will apply hard after the first few clicks of the ratchet.

Just be thankful you're not doing this on a Humpy . . .

Rob

[FJWALLY]

Rob,

You wrote,

"I did notice though the rears are backed right back to the cylinder and drums are still touching - is this normal or has an incorrect component slipped in - front has a couple turns off fully backed off - I’ll have to run it around and wear the pads down a bit to get it fully freed up - just seams odd - was same before replacing"

This is a notorious "gotcha" of early Holden rear brakes. What's happened is that you've backed the adjusters off too far, so that the handbrake lever and strut are holding the shoes apart, instead of the adjusters. The primary shoe then moves upwards under return spring tension, and - the brakes drag, making you think they're adjusted too tight. The cure is to disconnect the rear handbrake cable at the gearbox, back the eccentrics all the way off on both sides, and then adjust the shoes like you would for the front brakes. Only adjust the eccentrics after the rear brakes are properly adjusted; and after that, reconnect the handbrake cable and gradually sneak up on the right adjustment with the threaded end of the front handbrake cable: adjust up until the rear brakes begin to drag, and then back the nut off a few turns so they don't any more. If done right, the handbrake will apply hard after the first few clicks of the ratchet.

Just be thankful you're not doing this on a Humpy . . .

Rob

Cheers Rob - I will give that a go - what would I do without you wise peoples


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[Errol62]

Errol had his leak after refurb, id check that too...

Should be right with Power Brakes SA at Gilles Plains. Wish they were at Norwood still. Just don’t use South Glenelg Brake Service if you want it right first time.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FJWALLY]

Errol had his leak after refurb, id check that too...

Should be right with Power Brakes SA at Gilles Plains. Wish they were at Norwood still. Just don’t use South Glenelg Brake Service if you want it right first time.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yep - powerbrakes


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[FJWALLY]

Rob,

You wrote,

"I did notice though the rears are backed right back to the cylinder and drums are still touching - is this normal or has an incorrect component slipped in - front has a couple turns off fully backed off - I’ll have to run it around and wear the pads down a bit to get it fully freed up - just seams odd - was same before replacing"

This is a notorious "gotcha" of early Holden rear brakes. What's happened is that you've backed the adjusters off too far, so that the handbrake lever and strut are holding the shoes apart, instead of the adjusters. The primary shoe then moves upwards under return spring tension, and - the brakes drag, making you think they're adjusted too tight. The cure is to disconnect the rear handbrake cable at the gearbox, back the eccentrics all the way off on both sides, and then adjust the shoes like you would for the front brakes. Only adjust the eccentrics after the rear brakes are properly adjusted; and after that, reconnect the handbrake cable and gradually sneak up on the right adjustment with the threaded end of the front handbrake cable: adjust up until the rear brakes begin to drag, and then back the nut off a few turns so they don't any more. If done right, the handbrake will apply hard after the first few clicks of the ratchet.

Just be thankful you're not doing this on a Humpy . . .

Rob

Thanks Rob - gave them a quick adjust this arvo - worked a treat


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[FJWALLY]

One more thing I noticed is my clutch slave cylinder is a bit weapy and rubber boot is shot to peaces - whats the best brand to replace with? Is there one that comes with the adjuster bolt or are they all like rares and come without?


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[ardiesse]

Rob,

Less trouble overall if you get yours stainless-steel sleeved. Clutch slave cylinders don't come with the pushrod.

Werribee Brake and Clutch?

Rob

[FJWALLY]

Rob,

Less trouble overall if you get yours stainless-steel sleeved. Clutch slave cylinders don't come with the pushrod.

Werribee Brake and Clutch?

Rob

Cheers Rob - yeah I might do that and buy a rubber kit from kingswood country or rares


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[Errol62]

So far I've got by with a light hone using my thumb and some 240. 100,000 country miles on an M20 4 speed using the Hadfield bracket. The rod and nut set do tend to go missing but can be made easily enough.

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[FJWALLY]

Not a bad score


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[FJWALLY]

Done - they turn them around quick at powerbrakes


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[Errol62]

After all these years they are still top notch


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Errol62]

You can fit a small coil spring under tension, between the hole in the end of your engine mount, and the end of the clutch fork. Takes up any free play to keep any static pressure off the thrust bearing, and was a factory fitted feature.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FJWALLY]

You can fit a small coil spring under tension, between the hole in the end of your engine mount, and the end of the clutch fork. Takes up any free play to keep any static pressure off the thrust bearing, and was a factory fitted feature.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Book doesn’t have it Clay- was it a later thought? Mine was set with no play at all when I pulled it out but I see it should have 1/8th play according to book


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