Hi Greg,
I might be able to save you some grief... please read.
To start with, I don't know the product you have... being PPG, I would hold it way above most others. If it is related to POR15 - I would probably consider it myself.. but would still go the POR15 on bare steel or slightly rusted surfaces.
My drama commenced in 1983, I painted over 20 litres of "3M body sealer and deadener" into my old bus..... worst mistake I ever made apart from modifying it...
It took me over 20 years to get the wretched stuff off again.. and the damage that was done needed a huge amount of "fixing".
Any such "hard" and "waterproof" sealant is dangerous stuff to metal.... it "traps" moisture underneath it and that's where the rust will start.... creeping away until it shows up eventually as bubbles.... by the time you see these emerge - it's too late...
The "satin" nature of the finish conceals those bubbles/blisters very well, until your eyes finally twig on what's going on...
The stuff might be ok if you prepare the steel properly, neutralise any known rust, prime it and then seal it with an many coats of enamel paint...
But, if this type of sealant is applied to anything but a well prepared and sealed out surface - rust will eventually come.... and it will come in a big way. Moisture trapped under a sealed surface is far worse than simply leaving it bare and wearing whatever surface rust develops... sealing over rust is a killer....
I have used fishoilene, primer and epoxy enamel on my floor - the best part of 20 years now has the floor as sound as the day I laid the carpet back over it.... I have used POR15 on the underside and in the boot on bare steel and it has also remained perfect - the big advantage of POR15 is that it can be painted over rust (hence POR)... although I did sand as much of it back - and also had to "metal ready" the shiny steel (the product needs a little bit of rust-like surface to work at its best).
I am keen to learn what this product you show is.... I will chase up the data sheet and see what I can glean from it.
I am extremely hesitant to take any notice of a product which states it "seals out" moisture.... if it can seal "out"... it can seal "in"....
Ok, just chased up the product.... it's nothing like POR15... in fact, not from the same company... this company is "PPC" not "PPG".
It would appear that this SW-2 product is similar to fishoil.... works by capilliary action for the most.
As Greg states, it would be excellent for areas which are inaccessible.. however, if any intention to top-coat surrounding areas is planned - it will more than likely react as fishoil does.
It further states that it can be removed using thinners... which is a good thing for repair work.
I am a little perplexed that it dries "hard"... my limited understanding and experience with anything containing or related to fishoil had never resulted in a "hard" finish..
This is what I extracted from the specs...
SW 2 Protective Oil is similar to Fish Oils, but without that fishy smell and will penetrate into difficult to access areas. Where applying paints like POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint or similar is hard or impossible, SW2 is the way to go. Ideal for the interior of vehicle doors, body panels, hollow sections of chassis, trapped recesses, etc. SW 2 Protective Oil forms a water resistant, penetrating thin film which dries to a satin finish, and will help prevent condensation, corrosion in these areas. SW 2 Protective Oil can also be used as a long term protective film on stored machinery, parts, castings and the like.
Ok - and it can be top coated.. in another data sheet...
Can be painted over the top which makes it ideal to use between sandblasting and painting if there is going to be a time lag.
I don't know this product, but an keen to follow your use of it....
thanks for posting.
I stumbled onto the POR-15 extension posted below whilst searching.... this one, I am keen to chase up.... the one downside to coating the underside of a vehicle is that POR-15 is extremely thin.... and offers almost zip insulation or deadening...
POR-15 Rubberized Under Coating can be applied directly over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint forthe toughest rust, corrosion and moisture barrier possible along with excellent sound and vibration deadening.POR-15 Rubberized Under Coating is a flexible, paintable, black coating. It is the only undercoating with POR-15 Technology and will protect against moisture, dust, heat and cold. It’s an excellent moisture barrier for application over auto body repairs and creates an effective sound barrier that reduces vibration and deadens sound in wheel wells, quarter panels, fenders and under carriages.Provides superior adhesion to both painted and unpainted surfaces. POR-15 Rubberized Under coating has superior resistance to road salt and will resist chipping and abrasions. May be used to insulate against engine and muffler noise, protects against dust penetration and exhaust fumes.FEATURES• Low odour• Water resistant• Easy application• Satin finish• Anti-corrosive
Many ways to skin a cat it seems fellow enthusiasts.
Fully bolted up the guard around the door gap and the brace took some persuading, no doubt distorted somewhat from the big patch I put in the middle of it. Just thought I would make sure all bolted up before I started slinging mud at it.
I didn’t need to butt weld the lip section as it has pulled down just enough to take a skim of bog. You have to win sometimes.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Many ways to skin a cat it seems fellow enthusiasts.
Fully bolted up the guard around the door gap and the brace took some persuading, no doubt distorted somewhat from the big patch I put in the middle of it. Just thought I would make sure all bolted up before I started slinging mud at it.
I didn’t need to butt weld the lip section as it has pulled down just enough to take a skim of bog. You have to win sometimes.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Looking good mate, not much rubbing on that joint.
Just a comment on any type of restoration and rust protection, it needs to be done ! I have seen cars restored with great paint jobs that only last a year or two before the dreaded rust bubbles start appearing. Any location that has been welded starts rusting from the inside out as soon as the weld has cooled due to the oils in the steel being evaporated by the heat. So any protection is better than none, just like the cat skinning you mention.
Rosco,
Yes using the product in places I can't get to. I have a panel man recommend this to me and swears by it. It does smell like fish oil for a day or two but then dries without the odour. I have painted over it but only in seems and where I can't get to it with any abrasive or thinners. So far no problem.
I know there be rust to some degree inside my sills, chassis rails front clip and rear and other box members. These areas will or have already been flooded with rustoleum motorcraft deodorised fish oil. Plugs and measures taken to prevent ingress of dirt and moisture, and attention to drainage. Hopefully the rust will then be prevented from advancing to anything detrimental or noticible. Multi-skin and folded seam areas like the guard lip reinforcement and bonnet hinge mounting area are some of the tricky areas. I have no worries with door and tailgate seams at least. Inside the roof all cleaned of any rust, wax, grease and most of the paint, and 2k etched.
Any surface rusted areas such as floor top and bottom, firewall, inside rear quarters, subframe and front crossmember 2 or 3 coats of Phoenix Paints Metalfix 100. Some of this will be painted over with acrylic after keying to 240.
Hopefully get these guards etch primed soon so I can start squirting the PPG 1k primer high build on everything. Oh and fix door bottoms. The bonnet underside needs sorting as well. And the fuel tank.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
I am confident and comfortable that the areas you are treating will never cause you issue, Clay...
I am not familiar with modern products, but believe the technology has developed significantly since I last did any rust-proofing on mine..
Fishoil is my old favorite... it was the first product I cam across many, many years ago which actually seemed to stem progression...
I am keen to watch what people are using currently - in years to come. I must get off my butt and start to get a grip on this newfandangled technology.
I will have some panel work to spray soon... and will ask many questions concerning etches and 2K systems... I have had a dabble with 2K in both primer and topcoat and am very impressed with results.
However, there is absolutely no doubt that my panel top coats on the old bus will be acrylic - I love working it... not so great at laying it down with a perfect ripple free (flutter) finish, but I don't believe it possible to get that mirror finish I strive for "off the gun".
Its the only way to get them straight. All the pros who do early cars will file finish the best they can then fill with something whether its filler, spray on polyester or hi fill and spend hours rubbing to have a good panel.
Panel work is so time consuming but worth the effort in the end.
Thanks Greg, you’re too kind mate. Thanks mainly to the advice I’ve got on here, I’m learning this bodywork gig. This ute is good practice for the next project. And yeah, it’s effin time consuming. Just spotted another shallow concave. Called past Lonsdale paints this morning and grabbed what seems like number six 600g pack of Upol Gold fine finish filler. Most of it has ended up on the floor and every other horizontal surface in the vicinity.
I’ve developed a disposable application system using cut lengths of old timber venetians as spreader squeegees, cardboard mixing palettes and ice cream stick stirrers from the coffee station at work.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
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EK van on rotisserie
Its the only way to get them straight. All the pros who do early cars will file finish the best they can then fill with something whether its filler, spray on polyester or hi fill and spend hours rubbing to have a good panel.
Panel work is so time consuming but worth the effort in the end.
Top job mate its going well.
Greg
spot on, only way to get nice and straight is too skim the whole car with filler and take it off, 3M platinum plus is now the filler of choice for us resto shops as it sands nice and has very few pin holes, followed by some finishing glaze then prima primer, then block block block... repeat and block block block....
Pin holes yes getting a few with the upol FCHZ. I am rushing this and will No doubt miss the odd dimple. Painting tomorrow.
I read somewhere the 2k sticks well to chrome and alloy. What about stainless? I'm deciding whether to paint the window trim for the sake of authenticity, and I do like the painted head and tail light garnishes as per factory. And the dash of course. I want it go look unmolested. None of this tarting up with special brightware. But it is extra effort.
All the trim screw holes need to be redrilled.
Stripping the engine bay to paint when I do the dash. I cant get my head around when to do this bit. In the factory the dash and excepting at Woodville the firewall, seem to have been done last.
Dash will cop high build 1k but won't bother with engine bay. Just rough up the twelve month old metalfix with 240.
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