Rosco's EK 225 manual
-
EK DAZ
- Posts: 428
- Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:21 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand.
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Hey Mate , I'm enjoying this story very much. My EK wagon has been sitting in my shed for the last 32 years (slowly working on it ), but your story is giving me inspiration to get stuck in and make some real progress. Regards Daz.
EK DAZ
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Thanks Daz,
wow - 32 years.... you've certainly had that one for some time.. we share some common ground here.
Yes, it might take a bit of getting back into - but what I find is that once I make a start... I simply can't find enough hours in the day.. this old bus saps much of my available time when I'm in EK mode...
With everything I do on it of late - a greater need to spend more time on it results.. It's usually when I get dragged off it to do more pressing things that I can leave the covers on and slow down the pace..
The next 10 years of this story is going to disappoint many - but none greater than myself in punching it out and posting... I destroyed this amazing car - as you will read soon enough...... it continues to live today, and for most it looks amazing - but deep down, I know I destroyed it when I decided to modify it.....
frats,
Rosco
wow - 32 years.... you've certainly had that one for some time.. we share some common ground here.
Yes, it might take a bit of getting back into - but what I find is that once I make a start... I simply can't find enough hours in the day.. this old bus saps much of my available time when I'm in EK mode...
With everything I do on it of late - a greater need to spend more time on it results.. It's usually when I get dragged off it to do more pressing things that I can leave the covers on and slow down the pace..
The next 10 years of this story is going to disappoint many - but none greater than myself in punching it out and posting... I destroyed this amazing car - as you will read soon enough...... it continues to live today, and for most it looks amazing - but deep down, I know I destroyed it when I decided to modify it.....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Ok - this is the start of the thread that I really don't want to share - I destroyed this car, up until now it was probably one of the most original, intact EK's on the road in Victoria.... only the front right fender, bumper and over-rider had been replaced... along with serviceable componentry..... how I wish now that such was still the case....
It was on the 10th February, 1982 that this terrible pestilence actually started... on this day, I found rust in the front left corner of the subframe. the rust was in three faces of the corner - and I have implored everyone with an FB or EK to fit 1" rubber bungs in the outrigger mount holes of the sub-frame centre ever since... it was through these holes that crud/leaves/rust progressively ate away over the many years resulting in my very poor and ill directed decision to replace it...
If this had happened in recent years, I would simply have cut the corner and Migged in replacement sections. It is only the stabiliser bar mount which is dependent on structural demand for this... the cross-member mounts are well to the rear and there is also the sound metal of the baffle and stone tray mount platform which would probably have sufficed for an almost endless period once the rusting had been stopped - but at the time, the damage was deemed terminal which demanded that it be replaced. This was the very incorrect information I received at the time - the car was doomed from then on.
It was not until 13th October that year when the first bolt was removed to begin the replacement.
From February to October, and rising to suggestion to fit a "modern" motor for which a replacement would not ever be an issue - I had been amassing components for a red motor, HR (HD, actually) disc front end and Aussie gearbox...
I was told everything was a straight forward replacement... and that parts from various models would afford very little difficulty when re-assembling the required componentry to complete the modification........ this was very much far from the truth.
I will continue this series of posts in small sections - with the resultant issues and speedy rectifications to both get the car back on the road and to keep it serviceable...
So, here is the very last pic I took of the old girl complete with the original subframe and a grey motor - albeit the second one.
We can see at left in this pic, the Frantz oil filter, the radiator overflow bottle and a windscreen washer bottle. My log book reveals that the alloy rocker cover came from "The Old Tin Shed" at the top of either Elizabeth or Swanston St, Melbourne on 10th January, 1973 for the princely sum of $11.50..... I fitted this to the original motor to stop oil leaking out of the "buckled" steel rocker cover - I did not know that winding down on the two nuts too far would cause permanent buckling... with the alloy, I could wind down to my heart's content... and each gasket lasted about three adjustments of the tappets... pic.....
In this pic, we can see how untidy beneath the bonnet was.. the motor was very tired, my wiring left almost everything to be desired and as far as keeping it clean - the layers of crud and oil probably resulted in much less damage occurring to the firewall and subframe mounts than would otherwise have resulted.... We also see the two holes in the stone-tray where those "pesky" fog lights were once mounted....
For those with very keen eyesight, we can see the aluminium strip running along the lower edge of the bottom radiator baffle cross-brace - I became an advocate for the fitting of insect and stone screening... my first attempt was to fit aluminium fly wire mesh.... it served the purpose, and was concealed behind the shiny stainless of the grille...... we'll get to what I now use, but this is not to come for another 21 years....... pic
I did not take "disassembly" pix... but did capture one last look at the damaged sub-frame and the last grey motor ever to have lived in this amazing old car....
What you can see in this pic, are the three holes cut for air cooling to the Frantz filter - I did not cut these in the replacement.
The following day, the engine and sub-frame were removed... I know I did take pix, but am at a loss as to where they are for now - I will edit when they come to hand.
These are very dark days in the life of this dear old vehicle... I had no assurance at this time that the vehicle would ever return to the road.. fortunately, I had the determination to continue and persevere... the option of looking for a replacement vehicle was never considered... I could still put it "back" at any stage of my destruction....
frats,
Rosco
It was on the 10th February, 1982 that this terrible pestilence actually started... on this day, I found rust in the front left corner of the subframe. the rust was in three faces of the corner - and I have implored everyone with an FB or EK to fit 1" rubber bungs in the outrigger mount holes of the sub-frame centre ever since... it was through these holes that crud/leaves/rust progressively ate away over the many years resulting in my very poor and ill directed decision to replace it...
If this had happened in recent years, I would simply have cut the corner and Migged in replacement sections. It is only the stabiliser bar mount which is dependent on structural demand for this... the cross-member mounts are well to the rear and there is also the sound metal of the baffle and stone tray mount platform which would probably have sufficed for an almost endless period once the rusting had been stopped - but at the time, the damage was deemed terminal which demanded that it be replaced. This was the very incorrect information I received at the time - the car was doomed from then on.
It was not until 13th October that year when the first bolt was removed to begin the replacement.
From February to October, and rising to suggestion to fit a "modern" motor for which a replacement would not ever be an issue - I had been amassing components for a red motor, HR (HD, actually) disc front end and Aussie gearbox...
I was told everything was a straight forward replacement... and that parts from various models would afford very little difficulty when re-assembling the required componentry to complete the modification........ this was very much far from the truth.
I will continue this series of posts in small sections - with the resultant issues and speedy rectifications to both get the car back on the road and to keep it serviceable...
So, here is the very last pic I took of the old girl complete with the original subframe and a grey motor - albeit the second one.
We can see at left in this pic, the Frantz oil filter, the radiator overflow bottle and a windscreen washer bottle. My log book reveals that the alloy rocker cover came from "The Old Tin Shed" at the top of either Elizabeth or Swanston St, Melbourne on 10th January, 1973 for the princely sum of $11.50..... I fitted this to the original motor to stop oil leaking out of the "buckled" steel rocker cover - I did not know that winding down on the two nuts too far would cause permanent buckling... with the alloy, I could wind down to my heart's content... and each gasket lasted about three adjustments of the tappets... pic.....
In this pic, we can see how untidy beneath the bonnet was.. the motor was very tired, my wiring left almost everything to be desired and as far as keeping it clean - the layers of crud and oil probably resulted in much less damage occurring to the firewall and subframe mounts than would otherwise have resulted.... We also see the two holes in the stone-tray where those "pesky" fog lights were once mounted....
For those with very keen eyesight, we can see the aluminium strip running along the lower edge of the bottom radiator baffle cross-brace - I became an advocate for the fitting of insect and stone screening... my first attempt was to fit aluminium fly wire mesh.... it served the purpose, and was concealed behind the shiny stainless of the grille...... we'll get to what I now use, but this is not to come for another 21 years....... pic
- 1982 7 new engine 13 Oct 1982 mail.jpg (279.22 KiB) Viewed 1094 times
I did not take "disassembly" pix... but did capture one last look at the damaged sub-frame and the last grey motor ever to have lived in this amazing old car....
What you can see in this pic, are the three holes cut for air cooling to the Frantz filter - I did not cut these in the replacement.
- 14 Oct 82 original subframe mail.jpg (218.07 KiB) Viewed 1094 times
The following day, the engine and sub-frame were removed... I know I did take pix, but am at a loss as to where they are for now - I will edit when they come to hand.
These are very dark days in the life of this dear old vehicle... I had no assurance at this time that the vehicle would ever return to the road.. fortunately, I had the determination to continue and persevere... the option of looking for a replacement vehicle was never considered... I could still put it "back" at any stage of my destruction....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
From the previous pix, when the grille and over-riders we refitted - the donor FB provided me with a replacement sub-frame... it was in very good condition with absolutely no rust evident.
I had the sub-frame hanging for quite some time. I poured "Spartan Foscote RS-1" into the openings, coating the internals walls.... I left this for a day or two then re-positioned the frame to have the liquid work on all four walls of the internal frame... I repeated this using Wattyl "fishoilene" and left it to dry out for a couple of months.
Further, I drilled drainage holes in the lower sections of the front of this replacement sub-frame.
The HD ball joint cross-member was stripped and it was modified by Rare Spares at (then) Brunswick on 30 April. The cost of modification was $75.00.
I had the ball joints in the lower control arms replaced and also purchased replacement upper control arms with pivots.
The lower control arms and springs were fitted off vehicle - a huge task with limited tools (jacks and levers).
I had no idea of the required spring lengths... and the only advice I was given was to use the HR ones.... which I now know to be a mistake - the EK ones would have given me a more original ride height.
I purchased a change-over 179 HP block motor number M 163520 from GEM, Sydney through "Ram Automotive" in Dandenong, Noel Belford for $410.00 plus $8.00 for the harmonic balancer. With the plugs removed, I could clearly see ".060" on the crowns of the pistons... believing these to be oversize of the 179 ones.... making it a 186 sized engine -
(This was wrong.. and I only found out in 2008 when completely stripped this motor of every piece to find a mysterious rattle (still have it)...
I Measured the size of the pistons - and found out that in fact.. the "060" over size was that in excess of standard 186 pistons.. so, we had a 192 cu. in motor... tell you more about this once we get the car mobile - wow! was it a rocket.)
And so, we now come to preparing to fit it to the vehicle....
On 19th October - The car was propped up on wooden blocks and the original sub-frame removed.
I set about cutting the floor to accommodate the larger gearbox - it was difficult to determine how much I'd have to remove and yet leave sufficient clearance - this is from where there was no turning back, and it took me ages to make the first cut. I can almost hear the dear old thing dying in my ears now... as the angle grinder went in, there was a resonating echo through the floor as it groaned and tried to prevent further agony.... to no avail.
My last cut resulted in the external floor brace breaking loose and the floor section came away.
I was happy to see that the exposed metal within was absolutely sound.
On 20th October, I set about making up replacement vertical floor braces from 2" x 2" heavy C-section steel .. positioning them on the now cut away floor frame "top hat" ends then welded them in.
The welds were good - and I rapped them quite hard with a large hammer... they weren't going anywhere - the resultant echoing vibration carrying through the vehicle with every "rap".
From there, I made up an angled cross piece using 2" x 1" C-section which would clear the gearbox and join the two halves of the floor together - then welded that in.
Again, it was sound..and the floor was back as one again..... it was ugly - terribly ugly, but it was absolutely solid.
I decided on a removable lower cross piece which would simply bolt to four holes in the vertical brace extensions I had welded in. The handbrake frame would be welded to that... so far, so good... there is a gaping hole in the floor now and this gave me opportunity to rub the surrounding area back and paint it with Foscote RS-1... a rust neutraliser.
On 22nd October, I made up the lower cross brace.
On 23rd October - ignorant of what was to eventuate, I painted the shroud, outer and inner front floor with three coats of "3M Auto Body Deadener and Sealer" - this was the second huge mistake I made apart from the modification... that blasted stuff trapped moisture in under it - it took me over 10 years to finally get rid of it... and repair the resultant damage....
Once it dried the sub frame was attached to the body.
The steering box was bolted on which was another huge mistake.... I did not "shim" it correctly. There was a difference in the replacement for some reason - and the box was "stressed" as the bolts were taken up to torque settings.
On the same day, I fitted the HD cross member to sub-frame - I did not use spacers when fitting this - another huge mistake which was to be corrected over 20 years later.
I had huge issues with what insulation rubbers to use... which EK ones, and which HR ones... I ended up using some of each, and cut all four to get the gaps equal.... another mistake... we are starting to create more issues here which took me ages to realise and correct.
I took this pic - clearly showing the issues I was having with the height of the cross-member/sub-frame heights..
We can see the RS-1 having done its stuff to the front of the radiator baffle... I was happy with the hard coating it provided... yet foolishly later painted that deadly deadener over it...
On 24 October - I returned to the mounting issue and simply cut 1/2" metal spacer blocks to go under the HD crossmember to allow the excess lengths of the EK mount bolts to take up tension - the cross-member was then bolted to the sub-frame – and torqued to spec.
I had issues with the outrigger - getting it aligned and positioned in the frame with the insulators "bulging" as it was tightened up.
No-one who was mentoring me had solution for this, I made as best a call as I could to have the cross-member "pointing" where it belonged... but it was far from parallel and was forced to pull into line using the outrigger bolts - they were tightened up to spec. Fitted and sealed outrigger to spec.
The tie-rod ends were then fitted to the steering linkages.
I had trouble aligning the sub frame to the body with the internal attaching bolts - they were out just slightly, and nothing I could do to lever the sub-frame to the body brought them any closer... I ended up drilling out the holes by less than 1/8" and bolted the frame to the body.
The little self-tapper hole in the upper right of the sub-frame did not align with the body either.. and was re-drilled and tapped using a larger tapper.
I fitted the steering linkages and idler arm to steering box and sub-frame and for the first time, found out that my right hand lock was poor..
"this was not corrected until 2019 when Roger H came to "tweak" the re-conditioned steering box he did for me... I put up with this terrible r/h lock for some 37 years......
I tried everything I knew, read or asked about - all to no avail... Roger H found "it" and we'll discuss that in 37 years time."
On 25th October I drilled and fitted lower horizontal brace and hand brake anchor bracket then connected the handbrake - another issue... the HR handbrake cable from the EH axle housing was too short for the distance to the EK lever..... I made up a "patch" wire rope connector using small "u" bolts and clamps.
We were now ready for the motor/gearbox.
The pressure and clutch plates to flywheel –Torque spec.
Fitted throw out lever and pivot ball to bell housing.
Fitted bell housing and throw out bearing to engine – torque spec.
Fitted gearbox to bell housing and engine assembly – torque spec.
A pic of the assembly sitting on a rolling frame ready to be picked up using block and tackle...
With the Odo showing 152,250.5. With the assistance of my father on the block and tackle, and my younger brother-in-law apprentice - we attempted to fit the engine and gearbox assembly to the engine compartment.
We lifted the assembly then rolled the car forward under it... gently lowering and angling it to enter the newly created floor opening...
Arggh!... it wouldn't go... it hit the firewall and damaged the rocker cover.. I was not happy.
We tried and tried to lower and manoeuvre the assembly in until it became obvious that something was blocking entry... it was the lower brace... with fitted up handbrake etc., etc.... so, that had to be disconnected.
At this time, there wasn't any transmission mount yet provided ... and the gearbox extension was preventing the assembly moving back..
It eventually went in.. then we fitted some wooden blocks under the gearbox to support it..
However - more dramas were to follow - the engine mount blocks would not line up with the cross-member mounts... it was "cock-eyed".
I checked and checked that the correct mount plates were fitted on the right sides... and that one mount was located in front and one behind.. as instructed in all of the "red motor" workshop manuals I had now acquired...
It still didn't want to go pointing straight ahead with the rear gearbox mount in the centre of the vehicle...
We called it a day - the engine was in... it fitted and tomorrow would be a fresh start to sort out the alignment issue...
Until next....
I had the sub-frame hanging for quite some time. I poured "Spartan Foscote RS-1" into the openings, coating the internals walls.... I left this for a day or two then re-positioned the frame to have the liquid work on all four walls of the internal frame... I repeated this using Wattyl "fishoilene" and left it to dry out for a couple of months.
Further, I drilled drainage holes in the lower sections of the front of this replacement sub-frame.
The HD ball joint cross-member was stripped and it was modified by Rare Spares at (then) Brunswick on 30 April. The cost of modification was $75.00.
I had the ball joints in the lower control arms replaced and also purchased replacement upper control arms with pivots.
The lower control arms and springs were fitted off vehicle - a huge task with limited tools (jacks and levers).
I had no idea of the required spring lengths... and the only advice I was given was to use the HR ones.... which I now know to be a mistake - the EK ones would have given me a more original ride height.
I purchased a change-over 179 HP block motor number M 163520 from GEM, Sydney through "Ram Automotive" in Dandenong, Noel Belford for $410.00 plus $8.00 for the harmonic balancer. With the plugs removed, I could clearly see ".060" on the crowns of the pistons... believing these to be oversize of the 179 ones.... making it a 186 sized engine -
(This was wrong.. and I only found out in 2008 when completely stripped this motor of every piece to find a mysterious rattle (still have it)...
I Measured the size of the pistons - and found out that in fact.. the "060" over size was that in excess of standard 186 pistons.. so, we had a 192 cu. in motor... tell you more about this once we get the car mobile - wow! was it a rocket.)
And so, we now come to preparing to fit it to the vehicle....
On 19th October - The car was propped up on wooden blocks and the original sub-frame removed.
I set about cutting the floor to accommodate the larger gearbox - it was difficult to determine how much I'd have to remove and yet leave sufficient clearance - this is from where there was no turning back, and it took me ages to make the first cut. I can almost hear the dear old thing dying in my ears now... as the angle grinder went in, there was a resonating echo through the floor as it groaned and tried to prevent further agony.... to no avail.
My last cut resulted in the external floor brace breaking loose and the floor section came away.
I was happy to see that the exposed metal within was absolutely sound.
On 20th October, I set about making up replacement vertical floor braces from 2" x 2" heavy C-section steel .. positioning them on the now cut away floor frame "top hat" ends then welded them in.
The welds were good - and I rapped them quite hard with a large hammer... they weren't going anywhere - the resultant echoing vibration carrying through the vehicle with every "rap".
From there, I made up an angled cross piece using 2" x 1" C-section which would clear the gearbox and join the two halves of the floor together - then welded that in.
Again, it was sound..and the floor was back as one again..... it was ugly - terribly ugly, but it was absolutely solid.
I decided on a removable lower cross piece which would simply bolt to four holes in the vertical brace extensions I had welded in. The handbrake frame would be welded to that... so far, so good... there is a gaping hole in the floor now and this gave me opportunity to rub the surrounding area back and paint it with Foscote RS-1... a rust neutraliser.
On 22nd October, I made up the lower cross brace.
On 23rd October - ignorant of what was to eventuate, I painted the shroud, outer and inner front floor with three coats of "3M Auto Body Deadener and Sealer" - this was the second huge mistake I made apart from the modification... that blasted stuff trapped moisture in under it - it took me over 10 years to finally get rid of it... and repair the resultant damage....
Once it dried the sub frame was attached to the body.
The steering box was bolted on which was another huge mistake.... I did not "shim" it correctly. There was a difference in the replacement for some reason - and the box was "stressed" as the bolts were taken up to torque settings.
On the same day, I fitted the HD cross member to sub-frame - I did not use spacers when fitting this - another huge mistake which was to be corrected over 20 years later.
I had huge issues with what insulation rubbers to use... which EK ones, and which HR ones... I ended up using some of each, and cut all four to get the gaps equal.... another mistake... we are starting to create more issues here which took me ages to realise and correct.
I took this pic - clearly showing the issues I was having with the height of the cross-member/sub-frame heights..
We can see the RS-1 having done its stuff to the front of the radiator baffle... I was happy with the hard coating it provided... yet foolishly later painted that deadly deadener over it...
- Sub Frame Cross member 24 Oct mail.jpg (225.49 KiB) Viewed 1076 times
I had issues with the outrigger - getting it aligned and positioned in the frame with the insulators "bulging" as it was tightened up.
No-one who was mentoring me had solution for this, I made as best a call as I could to have the cross-member "pointing" where it belonged... but it was far from parallel and was forced to pull into line using the outrigger bolts - they were tightened up to spec. Fitted and sealed outrigger to spec.
The tie-rod ends were then fitted to the steering linkages.
I had trouble aligning the sub frame to the body with the internal attaching bolts - they were out just slightly, and nothing I could do to lever the sub-frame to the body brought them any closer... I ended up drilling out the holes by less than 1/8" and bolted the frame to the body.
The little self-tapper hole in the upper right of the sub-frame did not align with the body either.. and was re-drilled and tapped using a larger tapper.
I fitted the steering linkages and idler arm to steering box and sub-frame and for the first time, found out that my right hand lock was poor..
"this was not corrected until 2019 when Roger H came to "tweak" the re-conditioned steering box he did for me... I put up with this terrible r/h lock for some 37 years......
I tried everything I knew, read or asked about - all to no avail... Roger H found "it" and we'll discuss that in 37 years time."
On 25th October I drilled and fitted lower horizontal brace and hand brake anchor bracket then connected the handbrake - another issue... the HR handbrake cable from the EH axle housing was too short for the distance to the EK lever..... I made up a "patch" wire rope connector using small "u" bolts and clamps.
We were now ready for the motor/gearbox.
The pressure and clutch plates to flywheel –Torque spec.
Fitted throw out lever and pivot ball to bell housing.
Fitted bell housing and throw out bearing to engine – torque spec.
Fitted gearbox to bell housing and engine assembly – torque spec.
A pic of the assembly sitting on a rolling frame ready to be picked up using block and tackle...
- 25 Oct 82 engine trans mail.jpg (202.71 KiB) Viewed 1076 times
With the Odo showing 152,250.5. With the assistance of my father on the block and tackle, and my younger brother-in-law apprentice - we attempted to fit the engine and gearbox assembly to the engine compartment.
We lifted the assembly then rolled the car forward under it... gently lowering and angling it to enter the newly created floor opening...
Arggh!... it wouldn't go... it hit the firewall and damaged the rocker cover.. I was not happy.
We tried and tried to lower and manoeuvre the assembly in until it became obvious that something was blocking entry... it was the lower brace... with fitted up handbrake etc., etc.... so, that had to be disconnected.
At this time, there wasn't any transmission mount yet provided ... and the gearbox extension was preventing the assembly moving back..
It eventually went in.. then we fitted some wooden blocks under the gearbox to support it..
However - more dramas were to follow - the engine mount blocks would not line up with the cross-member mounts... it was "cock-eyed".
I checked and checked that the correct mount plates were fitted on the right sides... and that one mount was located in front and one behind.. as instructed in all of the "red motor" workshop manuals I had now acquired...
It still didn't want to go pointing straight ahead with the rear gearbox mount in the centre of the vehicle...
We called it a day - the engine was in... it fitted and tomorrow would be a fresh start to sort out the alignment issue...
Until next....
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
This is a great write up mate, it saves me reading a book at night.
Sent from Cahawba , Alabama
Sent from Cahawba , Alabama
FB-Special
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Thanks mph - but I'm not sure you meant it that way...
Long, long way to go in this thread.... you won't need to go near a library until you retire...
More words than pix for now, but I believe it warranted - it was a sordid affair getting it back running again... lots to tell.
Once it's back on the road (in about four more days, thread wise) - we start the long battle of "fixing" everything that simply didn't go like a hand in a glove... some of it, more like a hand into a mincer...
frats,
Rosco
Long, long way to go in this thread.... you won't need to go near a library until you retire...
More words than pix for now, but I believe it warranted - it was a sordid affair getting it back running again... lots to tell.
Once it's back on the road (in about four more days, thread wise) - we start the long battle of "fixing" everything that simply didn't go like a hand in a glove... some of it, more like a hand into a mincer...
frats,
Rosco
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Hi Rosco,
What a great read ! Keep it coming.
My story is very similar although I don't keep records like you so my journey is basically memories for myself and my family.
I was lucky enough to inherit my EK from my grandfather, it was the first car I learnt to drive and I certainly remember the joy my first modification brought me. To be honest It was as simple as changing from cross ply's to radials, wow what a difference !!!! The bug had bitten !!!!!
From then on it was motor upgrade then gearbox upgrade then diff etc etc all just to keep up with the mates. EH's, Torana's and the wicked one Fraud XY GT were all starting to rule the roads. The faster they went the faster I wanted to go, although the Fraud was in a league of its own.
I got the car when I was 18 and I'm now 52 and it has lived in 5 different houses, traveled a lot of kilometers and has seen 3 on the hop builds and upgrades, this one will be its last by me anyway.
You say you wrecked the car but I say far from it ! You must admit the original factory set up was quite a dinosaur especially compared to the opposite brand and the 5 years after they were sold. V8's, red motors, disc brakes, power steering and 4 speed gearboxes, Australian motoring was racing ahead and fast. The need for modification was quite necessary in my eyes because I loved the shape and colour but simply hated the performance.
Seriously I cringe at the street racing I used to do and the near misses, not one or two but five or six in a weekend ! Luckily my car survived just like yours has so don't be so hard on yourself. There are plenty of old Holden's crushed, smashed, stolen, burnt or just simply neglected back to mother earth. Nice to have it original but who cares as long as its still mobile.
Look forward to more reading
Greg
What a great read ! Keep it coming.
My story is very similar although I don't keep records like you so my journey is basically memories for myself and my family.
I was lucky enough to inherit my EK from my grandfather, it was the first car I learnt to drive and I certainly remember the joy my first modification brought me. To be honest It was as simple as changing from cross ply's to radials, wow what a difference !!!! The bug had bitten !!!!!
From then on it was motor upgrade then gearbox upgrade then diff etc etc all just to keep up with the mates. EH's, Torana's and the wicked one Fraud XY GT were all starting to rule the roads. The faster they went the faster I wanted to go, although the Fraud was in a league of its own.
I got the car when I was 18 and I'm now 52 and it has lived in 5 different houses, traveled a lot of kilometers and has seen 3 on the hop builds and upgrades, this one will be its last by me anyway.
You say you wrecked the car but I say far from it ! You must admit the original factory set up was quite a dinosaur especially compared to the opposite brand and the 5 years after they were sold. V8's, red motors, disc brakes, power steering and 4 speed gearboxes, Australian motoring was racing ahead and fast. The need for modification was quite necessary in my eyes because I loved the shape and colour but simply hated the performance.
Seriously I cringe at the street racing I used to do and the near misses, not one or two but five or six in a weekend ! Luckily my car survived just like yours has so don't be so hard on yourself. There are plenty of old Holden's crushed, smashed, stolen, burnt or just simply neglected back to mother earth. Nice to have it original but who cares as long as its still mobile.
Look forward to more reading
Greg
Last edited by EK283 on Tue Feb 11, 2020 9:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
So many cars so little time!
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Wife’s FC was stock other than VH44 booster, radials and chopped front springs. Was great to drive although not a huge performer. My EK I hardly knew in factory form.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Thanks Greg,
As I have mentioned previously on your thread - we parallel in many respects. I did not travel in the fast lane, as you did... I was more comfortable with economy and reliability... I simply had large travel distances on a daily basis where there wasn't another option.. the hours I worked made it impossible to use public transport if my vehicle failed... the discipline of punctuality threatened my employ on locomotives... I was never late due to vehicle failure in the 40 year career I had... and can only recall being late for duty on one occasion when I was held up in traffic...
Hindsight is a wonderful thing... like you, at the time - we looked forward to "improving"... and keeping up with our peers... in reality, I know I simply didn't appreciate what I had - and no matter how fast or flash my friends cars were...... none of them were original - I just couldn't see it.
I was duped into doing the big mod - pushed along and told that I was doing this for the "better"... I now know this to be far from true....
But, I can't go back - not without an even bigger task of fully restoring it.... and even if this were to eventuate - it would now not be "original".. but a "resto"... I believe I'll stay where I am with it - it has taken some 38 years to get this right (almost - always "something" I will find to make it more compatible...).
We have hit rock bottom in this thread now - my perseverance, stubborness and determination are about to come to the fore... as you will shortly read.
The gaping hole in the floor - once I had cut it out, was probably the point where I fully realised what I had done... it got better as I went on from there..
Thanks for your encouragement, and kind words... I am happy to share with the forum the issues I suffered with this build... and yes, I kept a full log of all my work on the old bus, save for the bit between getting my driver's license and marrying - can't possibly imagine what caused the entries to cease during that time......
I recorded parts numbers for all Holden parts I needed to complete the modification - I simply had to. I could not rely on myself remembering what came from what model later on if a replacement was needed..
Further, I took pix of every registration label that I paid for - once the sticker was placed on the quarter vent window.. I was a little disappointed in latter times when we no longer were issued with these stickers...
It is now my practice to distort the registration plate numbers/letters in any pix I post.... I note that there are people in this world with ulterior motives... I am more comfortable with concealing certain information than putting it on public display.
I took many pix, but these increase ten-fold once I go to digital photography... as you will see as we move towards the end of this thread.
Thanks again, Greg - I appreciate that you too have an "inheritance" passion for these wonderful vehicles... I have kept the external appearance of mine to suggest originality... but we both know it is very far from that.
The sad thing is - when many people look at my old bus today - they make statements that simply bring a smile to my face.... things like "I see you still have the old grey in it".... when clearly, it is a red that is painted in "Holden Engine Grey".... and another favorite of mine "I didn't know these came out with bucket seats, is this a forerunner to the "Premier"?
Ok, time to put today's post together...
frats,
Rosco
As I have mentioned previously on your thread - we parallel in many respects. I did not travel in the fast lane, as you did... I was more comfortable with economy and reliability... I simply had large travel distances on a daily basis where there wasn't another option.. the hours I worked made it impossible to use public transport if my vehicle failed... the discipline of punctuality threatened my employ on locomotives... I was never late due to vehicle failure in the 40 year career I had... and can only recall being late for duty on one occasion when I was held up in traffic...
Hindsight is a wonderful thing... like you, at the time - we looked forward to "improving"... and keeping up with our peers... in reality, I know I simply didn't appreciate what I had - and no matter how fast or flash my friends cars were...... none of them were original - I just couldn't see it.
I was duped into doing the big mod - pushed along and told that I was doing this for the "better"... I now know this to be far from true....
But, I can't go back - not without an even bigger task of fully restoring it.... and even if this were to eventuate - it would now not be "original".. but a "resto"... I believe I'll stay where I am with it - it has taken some 38 years to get this right (almost - always "something" I will find to make it more compatible...).
We have hit rock bottom in this thread now - my perseverance, stubborness and determination are about to come to the fore... as you will shortly read.
The gaping hole in the floor - once I had cut it out, was probably the point where I fully realised what I had done... it got better as I went on from there..
Thanks for your encouragement, and kind words... I am happy to share with the forum the issues I suffered with this build... and yes, I kept a full log of all my work on the old bus, save for the bit between getting my driver's license and marrying - can't possibly imagine what caused the entries to cease during that time......
I recorded parts numbers for all Holden parts I needed to complete the modification - I simply had to. I could not rely on myself remembering what came from what model later on if a replacement was needed..
Further, I took pix of every registration label that I paid for - once the sticker was placed on the quarter vent window.. I was a little disappointed in latter times when we no longer were issued with these stickers...
It is now my practice to distort the registration plate numbers/letters in any pix I post.... I note that there are people in this world with ulterior motives... I am more comfortable with concealing certain information than putting it on public display.
I took many pix, but these increase ten-fold once I go to digital photography... as you will see as we move towards the end of this thread.
Thanks again, Greg - I appreciate that you too have an "inheritance" passion for these wonderful vehicles... I have kept the external appearance of mine to suggest originality... but we both know it is very far from that.
The sad thing is - when many people look at my old bus today - they make statements that simply bring a smile to my face.... things like "I see you still have the old grey in it".... when clearly, it is a red that is painted in "Holden Engine Grey".... and another favorite of mine "I didn't know these came out with bucket seats, is this a forerunner to the "Premier"?
Ok, time to put today's post together...
frats,
Rosco
-
wikedsparkz
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2020 11:44 am
- State: VIC
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Wow what amazing history to your old bus 
wish I had taken more photos when I was driving my beasts. Wow in 75 I was born lol maybe 10 years later I fell in love with old cars. I also was wondering with the ks if they go back to 00000 again, that's cool, wonder if my beasts,have clocked over at least once by now lol
Love your stor, I'm with everyone, keep going
Hope I have some stories like this again when she is back on the road again
wish I had taken more photos when I was driving my beasts. Wow in 75 I was born lol maybe 10 years later I fell in love with old cars. I also was wondering with the ks if they go back to 00000 again, that's cool, wonder if my beasts,have clocked over at least once by now lol Love your stor, I'm with everyone, keep going
Hope I have some stories like this again when she is back on the road again
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Thanks Vicky - I'm in trouble with my computer at present... windows update has locked me out of my files... so, next issue might not be for a bit yet.
Yes, take many pix of what you are doing with your build... you'll be surprised at what you forget if you don't keep a log.... pix will bring a lot of this missing info back to your memory.
thanks for the encouragement... will keep going with posts, but until I get this computer sorted out - not for a spell.
frats,
Rosco
Yes, take many pix of what you are doing with your build... you'll be surprised at what you forget if you don't keep a log.... pix will bring a lot of this missing info back to your memory.
thanks for the encouragement... will keep going with posts, but until I get this computer sorted out - not for a spell.
frats,
Rosco
-
In the Shed
- Posts: 2175
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 10:18 pm
- State: SA
- Location: South Australia
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Great reading Rosco, keep at it.
Greg/Rosco,
I too learnt to drive in my fathers FB sedan. He purchased it on 17/12/62 (for 845 pounds) and gave it to me in 1983. It was not cool to be seen driving a stock FB back then and was certainly not great for attracting young ladies. Now when I take my EK ute out the car gets plenty of attention and I get told it is a "cool car". Sadly that is around 35 yrs too late to be driving a cool car!
My big regret on the sedan is cutting two speaker holes in the rear parcel shelf.
Regards
Stephen
Greg/Rosco,
I too learnt to drive in my fathers FB sedan. He purchased it on 17/12/62 (for 845 pounds) and gave it to me in 1983. It was not cool to be seen driving a stock FB back then and was certainly not great for attracting young ladies. Now when I take my EK ute out the car gets plenty of attention and I get told it is a "cool car". Sadly that is around 35 yrs too late to be driving a cool car!
My big regret on the sedan is cutting two speaker holes in the rear parcel shelf.
Regards
Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Thanks Stephen,
for many of us on this forum, we have a history with these amazing cars.... many of us have progressed through the queue of remaining owner/historians and now hold a position in the front row.
As a question of interest, I ponder who are the oldest members in this forum and also who has owned their vehicle the longest... I won't be at the top of either list, but would be interested to know which members are....
Is this worthy of opening up a poll thread?
frats,
Rosco
for many of us on this forum, we have a history with these amazing cars.... many of us have progressed through the queue of remaining owner/historians and now hold a position in the front row.
As a question of interest, I ponder who are the oldest members in this forum and also who has owned their vehicle the longest... I won't be at the top of either list, but would be interested to know which members are....
Is this worthy of opening up a poll thread?
frats,
Rosco
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Bump... I'm back, thanks to considerable help from gpi to get Windows working again.. take a bow.
Ok, hoping we can pick this thread up and get going again....
24th October, '82.. my logbook shows was the date the engine/gearbox assembly was finally fitted into the engine bay.
It was a very difficult fit.. we used a block and tackle from a beam in the garage and with it swinging in the breeze, the angle just could not be made for the assembly to go in... we used blocks of wood on the cross-member to support it and shifted the lift point chain links to gain a better approach angle (sounds like glide slope, doesn't it).
It finally went in and the next issue arose... the motor mount plates simply wouldn't line up properly with the engine mounting rubbers.
At this point in time, I did not know that the two plates were different and that they mounted forward of the mounting blocks on one side, and behind on the other...
It was getting late and we'd all had enough - I fitted the four bolts and left the gearbox supported by a trolley jack for the night... it was "in" - but not right.
Next day, after a jolly good read - I found the plate issue mentioned and lifted the engine again - re-fitting it with the procedure.. it was much better, but still very tight to get the gearbox to centre where it belonged.
At that time, Rares were selling a large rear transmission mount.. it simply bolted through the floor using four large bolts.
It was a welded assembly and made the floor area very robust - it is still in the vehicle today - along with some further strengthening I did much more recently when I revisited the floor hump.
The connections started to take shape.. each little bit of the puzzle coming together - it seemed similar to a plastic kit model... all the previously purchased and prepared parts were added to the basic skeleton and more and more, the boxes of them began to be outnumbered by those in the assembly..
A couple of pix to break this up... scan quality of these two is shocking - but it clearly shows the "red" in and mounted in its own right.
I'm probably jumping ahead a bit by placing these pix here... this was exactly as the re-build had proceeded when the vehicle was road tested for the first time..... there weren't any front seats in it.... we "piled" up blankets to sit on top of the "mound" of the floor.... it certainly was a weird experience... and the noise!... for anyone who has yet to drive one of these old buses without the transmission floor cover in place - you simply won't believe your ears!
In these pix, we can see that the Davies-Craig thermatic fan has been fitted. We are still running the original type radiator and we are running with a generator and regulator.... all this gets changed later as problem after problem begin to sour the mission.
Before being able to start the motor - the rear axle had to be swapped out and an EH housing fitted, with a 3:55 coarse spline diff centre.
I had issues with finding a tailshaft and eventually came up with the shortest Holden one available - from an LJ Torana auto - eye centres 50 3/16".
Brake lines, cables and modified speedo cable were added. The speedo cable was made to my measured length of 60" - but I now know this to be too short... it would be better at 65"... removing the instrument cluster far enough to unscrew the holding ring on the speedo has been an issue ever since..
On 3rd November, '82 - all connections were completed and the first attempt to start the motor was made...
Oil was added and the motor cranked over a number of times with the plugs removed to prime up the oil galleries - the oil light went out fairly quickly during this cranking.. and then the plugs were re-fitted.
The battery was almost new, the starter motor was in good condition - yet on attempting to start, the motor would "just" turn over... sometimes, the solenoid would drop out and the starter motor would over-run... I could not think of anything I had not done or had not tightened up properly for this to happen.. it was all virtually "new" equipment...
I shuddered to think that coolant had got into the chambers - and pulled the plugs again.. relieved to find that they were dry.
More attempts to start the motor resulted in much the same... it would fire randomly, but not start.
There was fuel in the carby and the timing was set.. I could think of nothing which was causing this.
I decided to pull off the carby and check it.
This carby was obtained quite a few weeks earlier. A "change-over" reconditioned one from Muller and Jacka of Ringwood... I handed them one from a wreckers which was in diabolical state... the "one" they gave back to me was "new looking"... I did not check anything inside it.
When I handed it in, they told me they didn't have any in stock - but would have one brought out from their Preston shop... the following day.
When I started to strip down the carby - I found out why the motor would not start.. they had done "nothing" inside the gunked up and crudded internals of the carby I probably handed them. They had put a new link and arm on the pump.. but I'm almost convinced that they did nothing to clean out the ports or passages within... it was still gunked up.
I took it back to them and they denied not having stripped it.. told me a whole pack of lies about it being in good condition and that my issues would be found elsewhere.. I told them they had not heard the last of this, and on that - was almost accosted to leave the carby with them again... my remarks were that they had their chance once, they were not going to get a second one to prevent liability...
I ended up going to Preston Motors in Nunawading where I had a contact in the spare parts section.. Tracy - she was very sympathetic and offered me a "factory" change-over for the rubbish I took with me to her..... I walked out with a very nicely priced 179 carby...
Fitted it up, primed it with fuel - and turned the key with baited breath... broooom!.. it started.
Ran a bit rough for a little while, but I eventually got the mixture set just on the rich side and put the timing light and dwell meter on the ignition.
All this brought the motor to run quite sweetly - I decided to keep the idle up a bit until the car could be road tested...
It was now "full on" to get the basic gear on so that I could take it out for a drive...
One thing which was puzzling me, was that when I turned off the ignition - the motor would run on for between 10 and 20 seconds... I knew the key was killing the coil.. but the motor ran on until it shuddered itself to a stop... you'll read a little later on what was causing this - and shriek at the cause...
Over the next couple of days, the motor was started a number of times - brought up to operating temperature and stopped.. the thermo fan was cutting in and out and the radiator "seemed" to be coping with the larger engine... it really needed to get out onto the road for some running...
I was still in the process of painting that blasted body deadener onto everything.. and got impatient in the wait.
On 5th November, I grabbed my apprentice and we fitted some blankets onto the floor.... got ourselves comfortable and decided to go out onto the road to the top of the hill and back.
The floor still had its huge hole over the gearbox and it was only the subframe in the above pix which were the front of the car...
By golly, the steering was "light"... all that body work and bumpers missing...
First gear, change to second and for the first time - I was alarmed at the power this motor had... third gear and it still pulled away on light throttle... probably as good as the grey did in second with a fair bit of boot in it.... fourth and it simply "purred"..
Now, to try the brakes... first application - and they almost locked up.. but, there was something "wrong".. the pedal was just off the rest at the top and it was as hard as all heck... a few times, they appeared to "stick" on... I knew I had removed the check valve from the master cylinder - but the way they grabbed and stuck before releasing was of concern...
The booster was that which was "thrown in" with the front end... it was a Girling one.. a long bodied thing with a plate at the rear - I was not happy with the way it was functioning..
It seemed to be getting better with use, but I had marked it for replacement - even at this early stage.
So, we made it safely back home - I was happy, to some extent... there were many in my family who took one look at what I was doing and believed the dear old bus would never see the road again... wrong.
More and more of the parts started to go back on. I had concerns about the thermo fan driving anything into the radiator - so fitted some aluminium flyscreen behind the grille...
In this last pic, as we bring this chapter to a close - we can see one of the many 5 litre drums of 3M body deadener... it would take me decades to get rid of that stuff from everywhere I had plastered it on...
We will continue next with full re-assembly of the vehicle - and all of the progressive issues which started to arise.
It seemed like a wooden floor of nails that would not stay down.. I'd find some with their heads up and bang them down - only to find more come up in different places - this went on for over 10 years until I was confident that I'd either fixed or replaced what was seemingly an endless mission...
frats,
Rosco
Ok, hoping we can pick this thread up and get going again....
24th October, '82.. my logbook shows was the date the engine/gearbox assembly was finally fitted into the engine bay.
It was a very difficult fit.. we used a block and tackle from a beam in the garage and with it swinging in the breeze, the angle just could not be made for the assembly to go in... we used blocks of wood on the cross-member to support it and shifted the lift point chain links to gain a better approach angle (sounds like glide slope, doesn't it).
It finally went in and the next issue arose... the motor mount plates simply wouldn't line up properly with the engine mounting rubbers.
At this point in time, I did not know that the two plates were different and that they mounted forward of the mounting blocks on one side, and behind on the other...
It was getting late and we'd all had enough - I fitted the four bolts and left the gearbox supported by a trolley jack for the night... it was "in" - but not right.
Next day, after a jolly good read - I found the plate issue mentioned and lifted the engine again - re-fitting it with the procedure.. it was much better, but still very tight to get the gearbox to centre where it belonged.
At that time, Rares were selling a large rear transmission mount.. it simply bolted through the floor using four large bolts.
It was a welded assembly and made the floor area very robust - it is still in the vehicle today - along with some further strengthening I did much more recently when I revisited the floor hump.
The connections started to take shape.. each little bit of the puzzle coming together - it seemed similar to a plastic kit model... all the previously purchased and prepared parts were added to the basic skeleton and more and more, the boxes of them began to be outnumbered by those in the assembly..
A couple of pix to break this up... scan quality of these two is shocking - but it clearly shows the "red" in and mounted in its own right.
I'm probably jumping ahead a bit by placing these pix here... this was exactly as the re-build had proceeded when the vehicle was road tested for the first time..... there weren't any front seats in it.... we "piled" up blankets to sit on top of the "mound" of the floor.... it certainly was a weird experience... and the noise!... for anyone who has yet to drive one of these old buses without the transmission floor cover in place - you simply won't believe your ears!
- 83feb04 mail.jpg (150.95 KiB) Viewed 914 times
- 83feb05 mail.jpg (153.72 KiB) Viewed 914 times
In these pix, we can see that the Davies-Craig thermatic fan has been fitted. We are still running the original type radiator and we are running with a generator and regulator.... all this gets changed later as problem after problem begin to sour the mission.
Before being able to start the motor - the rear axle had to be swapped out and an EH housing fitted, with a 3:55 coarse spline diff centre.
I had issues with finding a tailshaft and eventually came up with the shortest Holden one available - from an LJ Torana auto - eye centres 50 3/16".
Brake lines, cables and modified speedo cable were added. The speedo cable was made to my measured length of 60" - but I now know this to be too short... it would be better at 65"... removing the instrument cluster far enough to unscrew the holding ring on the speedo has been an issue ever since..
On 3rd November, '82 - all connections were completed and the first attempt to start the motor was made...
Oil was added and the motor cranked over a number of times with the plugs removed to prime up the oil galleries - the oil light went out fairly quickly during this cranking.. and then the plugs were re-fitted.
The battery was almost new, the starter motor was in good condition - yet on attempting to start, the motor would "just" turn over... sometimes, the solenoid would drop out and the starter motor would over-run... I could not think of anything I had not done or had not tightened up properly for this to happen.. it was all virtually "new" equipment...
I shuddered to think that coolant had got into the chambers - and pulled the plugs again.. relieved to find that they were dry.
More attempts to start the motor resulted in much the same... it would fire randomly, but not start.
There was fuel in the carby and the timing was set.. I could think of nothing which was causing this.
I decided to pull off the carby and check it.
This carby was obtained quite a few weeks earlier. A "change-over" reconditioned one from Muller and Jacka of Ringwood... I handed them one from a wreckers which was in diabolical state... the "one" they gave back to me was "new looking"... I did not check anything inside it.
When I handed it in, they told me they didn't have any in stock - but would have one brought out from their Preston shop... the following day.
When I started to strip down the carby - I found out why the motor would not start.. they had done "nothing" inside the gunked up and crudded internals of the carby I probably handed them. They had put a new link and arm on the pump.. but I'm almost convinced that they did nothing to clean out the ports or passages within... it was still gunked up.
I took it back to them and they denied not having stripped it.. told me a whole pack of lies about it being in good condition and that my issues would be found elsewhere.. I told them they had not heard the last of this, and on that - was almost accosted to leave the carby with them again... my remarks were that they had their chance once, they were not going to get a second one to prevent liability...
I ended up going to Preston Motors in Nunawading where I had a contact in the spare parts section.. Tracy - she was very sympathetic and offered me a "factory" change-over for the rubbish I took with me to her..... I walked out with a very nicely priced 179 carby...
Fitted it up, primed it with fuel - and turned the key with baited breath... broooom!.. it started.
Ran a bit rough for a little while, but I eventually got the mixture set just on the rich side and put the timing light and dwell meter on the ignition.
All this brought the motor to run quite sweetly - I decided to keep the idle up a bit until the car could be road tested...
It was now "full on" to get the basic gear on so that I could take it out for a drive...
One thing which was puzzling me, was that when I turned off the ignition - the motor would run on for between 10 and 20 seconds... I knew the key was killing the coil.. but the motor ran on until it shuddered itself to a stop... you'll read a little later on what was causing this - and shriek at the cause...
Over the next couple of days, the motor was started a number of times - brought up to operating temperature and stopped.. the thermo fan was cutting in and out and the radiator "seemed" to be coping with the larger engine... it really needed to get out onto the road for some running...
I was still in the process of painting that blasted body deadener onto everything.. and got impatient in the wait.
On 5th November, I grabbed my apprentice and we fitted some blankets onto the floor.... got ourselves comfortable and decided to go out onto the road to the top of the hill and back.
The floor still had its huge hole over the gearbox and it was only the subframe in the above pix which were the front of the car...
By golly, the steering was "light"... all that body work and bumpers missing...
First gear, change to second and for the first time - I was alarmed at the power this motor had... third gear and it still pulled away on light throttle... probably as good as the grey did in second with a fair bit of boot in it.... fourth and it simply "purred"..
Now, to try the brakes... first application - and they almost locked up.. but, there was something "wrong".. the pedal was just off the rest at the top and it was as hard as all heck... a few times, they appeared to "stick" on... I knew I had removed the check valve from the master cylinder - but the way they grabbed and stuck before releasing was of concern...
The booster was that which was "thrown in" with the front end... it was a Girling one.. a long bodied thing with a plate at the rear - I was not happy with the way it was functioning..
It seemed to be getting better with use, but I had marked it for replacement - even at this early stage.
So, we made it safely back home - I was happy, to some extent... there were many in my family who took one look at what I was doing and believed the dear old bus would never see the road again... wrong.
More and more of the parts started to go back on. I had concerns about the thermo fan driving anything into the radiator - so fitted some aluminium flyscreen behind the grille...
In this last pic, as we bring this chapter to a close - we can see one of the many 5 litre drums of 3M body deadener... it would take me decades to get rid of that stuff from everywhere I had plastered it on...
- 1982 17 new engine 11 Nov 1982 mail.jpg (151.38 KiB) Viewed 914 times
We will continue next with full re-assembly of the vehicle - and all of the progressive issues which started to arise.
It seemed like a wooden floor of nails that would not stay down.. I'd find some with their heads up and bang them down - only to find more come up in different places - this went on for over 10 years until I was confident that I'd either fixed or replaced what was seemingly an endless mission...
frats,
Rosco
Re: Rosco's EK 225 manual
Another great read mate.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
FB-Special
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.