WA fb special

[gpi]

you will need to lift the sump with some help from mr gal pipe and his mate bfh

[mph]

you will need to lift the sump with some help from mr gal pipe and his mate bfh

To clear fb and hr arms on a hr front or just to clear hr arms on a hr front.

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[mph]

Any tips on removing these bad boys

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[Errol62]

Heat control arm end with oxy but not too hot. You could try the oven on flat out. Takeoff the seal and degrease first of course.

Regarding the mounts, sounds like you’re using original twin rear mounts ex-crash box or Hydramatic. In which case use the semi-circular cut-out to align the crank concentrically. This will give you correct output shaft to tail#h@ft to pinion angles. I think the motor is not quite parallel, pointing to the pinion flange which is off centre. Like gpi and Rosco says you will no doubt need to clearance the sump for the draglink fouling on I think left lock.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[gpi]

No need for heat. Just use the right tool.
It pretty easy to mangle the end when you’re using heat and a bfh, you don’t want this because the replacement won’t fit snuggly.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/too ... 43413.html

[EK283]

The ball joints can be very difficult to remove without a press or a good vice.

You could try heating like Clay says on the arm itself only to make that part expand around the ball joint but if they are rusted in they will not come out.

Local mechanic should have a press if you don't have one.

Greg

Just saw the tool between posts ! A very good option.

[rosco]

I had my ball joints replaced at a tyre/front end specialist... they pressed the old ones out and fitted the new ones which I supplied.
from memory, in 1982 - it cost me $10...

As for the Kit for FB/EK subframe to HR crossmember... maybe they have it right now.... I had to play with EK on the top under the cups and HR below.
They were far too high which resulted in the outrigger sitting too far away from the sub-frame.

The spacers are used to allow the four bolts to be torqued up correctly - leaving the required "crushing" of the mount rubbers.
Without these, if you torque up the four bolts, they will crush the rubbers like mushrooms...
We need "insulation" between the cross-member and the sub-frame. It took me years to work that one out...
Once I found reference in the EK workshop manual - I made up the tubes and kept cutting them down in increments until I had the stated compressions.... the car rode an awful lot better after that... previously, without the spacer - it was jarring... I could feel it through the steering wheel every time I hit a decent pot-hole or joint in the road... with the spacers fitted and the bolts torqued - a lot of that jarring disappeared - car still bounced, but there was a bit of "give" in it... not rigid like it was previously.
Didn't make one jot of difference to how the car steered or kept track - which was surprising... I was expecting a bit of "float" in tracking... but there was no more than before with the rubbers "crushed".

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Agree. That looks like a must have tool.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FireKraka]

Hey Clint I have a press in the company workshop at Henderson and a blast cabinet if you wanted to bring them down could do the lot in one go.
Neil

[ardiesse]

Removal of Lower Ball Joints.

Equipment Required -
B.F.H.
short length of 2-1/2" water pipe (size from memory: to slip over the outside of the ball joint underneath)
short length of 2" water pipe (size from memory: to slip over the ball joint stud from above)

Procedure -
Remove rubber boot from ball joint.
Place the 2-1/2" pipe on a solid surface.
Place the control arm so the ball joint is inside the 2-1/2" pipe.
Place the 2" pipe over the ball joint body.
Deliver a couple of persuasive blows with the B.F.H.

Installation of Lower Ball Joints.

Equipment Required -
B.F.H.
One (1) ACME anvil
short length of 2-1/2" water pipe

Procedure -
Remove grease nipple from ball joint. Place ball joint on anvil.
Place lower control arm over ball joint, being careful not to tear the rubber boot.
Place the 2-1/2" pipe over the control arm, being careful not to foul the ball joint.
Deliver persuasive blows with the B.F.H. until the ball joint is seated correctly in lower control arm.

Rob

[mph]

Heat control arm end with oxy but not too hot. You could try the oven on flat out. Takeoff the seal and degrease first of course.

Regarding the mounts, sounds like you’re using original twin rear mounts ex-crash box or Hydramatic. In which case use the semi-circular cut-out to align the crank concentrically. This will give you correct output shaft to tail#h@ft to pinion angles. I think the motor is not quite parallel, pointing to the pinion flange which is off centre. Like gpi and Rosco says you will no doubt need to clearance the sump for the draglink fouling on I think left lock.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

The rear mount was made from an EH gear box mount when the big tunnel went in.
Ive got a rough plan in my shed , have the front end on jack stands and rear on jack stands aswell, block and tackle on the motor to the i beams above and leave the gear box bolted in its mount to keep the new motor mounts and motor in the exact same location as now.
Take a heap of measurements from the motor to the fenders more so side measurements and the gear box mount will stop it going back and forth.
Drop the fb k frame slip the hr one in , the motor will be the correct height as it will still be hanging on the block and tackle which the height of that wont move for the whole time. bolt the hr in and make mounts to suit where the engine is floating double checking side to side measurements , tack the mounts tack the front outrigger then reinstall the fb k frame and make it driving again , then build the hr one up, i want to have all the welding done so once its powerder coated i dont have to grind it of for more welds
something along these lines anyways

[mph]

I had my ball joints replaced at a tyre/front end specialist... they pressed the old ones out and fitted the new ones which I supplied.
from memory, in 1982 - it cost me $10...

As for the Kit for FB/EK subframe to HR crossmember... maybe they have it right now.... I had to play with EK on the top under the cups and HR below.
They were far too high which resulted in the outrigger sitting too far away from the sub-frame.

The spacers are used to allow the four bolts to be torqued up correctly - leaving the required "crushing" of the mount rubbers.
Without these, if you torque up the four bolts, they will crush the rubbers like mushrooms...
We need "insulation" between the cross-member and the sub-frame. It took me years to work that one out...
Once I found reference in the EK workshop manual - I made up the tubes and kept cutting them down in increments until I had the stated compressions.... the car rode an awful lot better after that... previously, without the spacer - it was jarring... I could feel it through the steering wheel every time I hit a decent pot-hole or joint in the road... with the spacers fitted and the bolts torqued - a lot of that jarring disappeared - car still bounced, but there was a bit of "give" in it... not rigid like it was previously.
Didn't make one jot of difference to how the car steered or kept track - which was surprising... I was expecting a bit of "float" in tracking... but there was no more than before with the rubbers "crushed".

frats,
Rosco

Hi mate ,
Thanks for the in depth details the makes a lot more sense now
Ive emailed kingswood country and called rare spares as they both now sell rubbers to suit hr front in the earlier holdens , rare spares has two part numbers for the bolt kits one for early one for hr.
rares were not sure which ones to use with there custom rubbers kits, but suggested i can take both kits and bring back what i dont need which was nice.
Kingswood country said use either basically ...... so thats going to get you in trouble trouble like back in 82
i did find in one of the manuals front end section just need to do some more reading.
Clint

[mph]

Hey Clint I have a press in the company workshop at Henderson and a blast cabinet if you wanted to bring them down could do the lot in one go.
Neil

Thanks for the offer mate ill keep it in mind aswell when the time comes, id pack the beers and probably forget to bring all the parts

[FireKraka]

Hey Clint I probably should also have mentioned that a guy by the name of Pete Mallaby on the fe fc forum makes original hr engine mounts that you just weld back on to your cross member I used to make my own but Pete runs his own sheet metal shop on the central coast NSW and I originally sent him my drawings of the mounts and he refined them and now sells them on eBay at least I think he still does if you can't find them let me know and I can reach him of the fe fc forum.
Using these makes life really easy as you use standard red motor rubber mounts and the metal mount looks original if anybody is inspecting.
Neil

[FireKraka]

Mate just checked eBay, do a search for hr engine mounts, $120 + $15 postage.

Put them on the engine lower the engine onto said hr cross member tack them in position lift up engine, weld mounts buda bing mounts all done and in the right position.
Neil