Harv's meth monster project

[FJWALLY]

thats a crack up harv

have you tried Rostoff? Always found it worked after a couple days even on real old Shite on the old mans 28 Chevs.

[In the Shed]

The no-penetrant breakout load on the siezed grey motors is "greater than one hefty bugger swinging off the crank with 6' of boiler tube"... don't ask

Cheers,
Harv
[/quote]

What does that calculate to be in lb per foot of torque? Might need a pic of that tech tip!

[Harv]

Harv's School of Tool Abuse:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheater_bar

Comes complete with guidance like "don't force it... get a bigger hammer", "if you can't fix it with a hammer, you've obviously got an electrical problem" and "tighten it up until it snaps, then back it off half a turn".

I watched Dad use a cheater bar once trying to get a nut loose from under a Mini. 6' of pipe, his legs braced against the car whilst lying on a creeper. The Sidchrome socket split, and the creeper launched across the garage at a speed that would make the Jamaican bobsled team proud. He was wise enough to curl up, and only belted his shoulders against the wall. That nut came off later with the gasaxe. Suspect the socket went back for a lifetime warranty replacement.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

The no-penetrant breakout load on the siezed grey motors is "greater than one hefty bugger swinging off the crank with 6' of boiler tube"... don't ask

Cheers,
Harv

What does that calculate to be in lb per foot of torque? Might need a pic of that tech tip![/quote]
Don’t know how much you weigh Harv but let’s be kind and say 1000 ft lbs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Harv]

Minor hiccup. I have been waiting for the head for a long time, and heard back today that the bloke building it needs the exact bore pattern in order to blend in the head's combustion chambers.

I had intended to:
a) get the head (been more than a year now),
b) use my EJ-block test-subject block to dummy up the head,
c) make up the Norman manifold in timber, then get some smart bugger to TIG me up one,
d) make up all the brackets and do-dahs to mount the magneto, fuel pump and drysump pump,
e) pull it apart and get the block/crank/piston machining done,
f) reassemble.

Looks like I will have to do step e) a little earlier than anticipated.

Cheers,
Harv

[ardiesse]

Harv,

Slightly mystified that the cylinder head wizard needs the exact bore pattern. All grey motors have the same bore spacing, so I thought all you'd need to tell him was the bore size. And then the greys don't use dowels to locate the head on the block . . . so there's a degree of uncertainty in position.

Rob

[Harv]

Slightly mystified that the cylinder head wizard needs the exact bore pattern. All grey motors have the same bore spacing, so I thought all you'd need to tell him was the bore size. And then the greys don't use dowels to locate the head on the block . . . so there's a degree of uncertainty in position.

I am also equally puzzled. I would have figured use the standard GMH bore spacing and the 83mm sleeve diameter, and work from that. He was worried though that the machinist might shift the bore centres around when fitting the sleeves. I hope not, as that would do interesting things to the crank (at least in the north/south direction). Agree that there is enough slop in the head studs/bolts to account for any machinist error. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps he does not have a grey motor block to hand to work from.

He was also suprised that I would get the block machined, and then pistons made to suit. His understanding is that you buy the pistons first, then the block is bored to that size. I'm figuring that if I am buying custom, forged pistons then surely they can match them to the block. Am I missing something here?

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Hi Harv,

When I built a 283 chev for racing I had the same thing happen to me.

The machinist would not touch the bores until I had the pistons made, in this case Ross from USA. He said that although the measurements would be passed on there is normally error between ordering and receiving. How much error is to be debated, so I had to wait until pistons landed before boring started and that was a mind numbing 14 weeks.

Also I had the block sonic tested and bores machined to suit the wall casting thickness, you are right North South in the bore is interesting, cant really move much that way but the load in the block is East West from conrod movement on the crank.

If you are going to the trouble of custom pistons have you thought about rod length ? Luckily for me you can buy longer rods being a chev and this relieves some side loading in the bores, pistons then made to suit.

Regards Greg

[Harv]

Thanks Greg. I'll have a chat to Duncan Foster today and see what their take is on it.

I went with Eagle CRS5900MCXD forged H-beam connecting rods. These were made for the Mitsubishi 4G63 motor. The 4G63 was a 1997cc 4-cylinder engine produced in both naturally aspirated and turbocharged form from 1980. It continues in use with some Chinese manufacturers, and was the powerplant of the Lancer Evolution when Tommi Mäkinen won his four consecutive WRC championships. Early versions of the 4G63 (prior to April 1992) used thicker con rods, smaller gudgeon pins, a broader big end width and six bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft (later versions used seven bolts). Eagle offer five different forged H-beam rods for the 4G63, all of which are 5.9” long, 45mm rod journal, 48mm housing bore, are fixed with ARP bolts and exceed ASME E-4340 steel standards. Most use the later 22mm gudgeon pin diameter. The rods are available as either standard, or extreme duty. Typically the early 6-bolt rods are used on genuine Holden cranks, though need ~0.008” surface facing. The later 7-bolt rods are normally used on the aftermarket grey motor billet cranks as the reduced big-end width provides less crank stress.

Cheers,
Harv

[Harv]

Spoke to Duncan Foster this morning. Normal practice is to buy the pistons first, then machine the block to suit. This is due to some off-the-shelf pistons having dimensional variation. There is often little recourse when buying off-the-shelf pistons - they are what they are. In my case, the pistons are being made to suit. Provided I supply the manufacturer (Special Piston Services) with the correct bore, I can then guarantee they will be correct - if they are not, they go back to the manufacturer.

Looks like I need to drag the siezed EJ motor out from behind the shed (with the spooders ) and strip it down this weekend. Have also got to get the spare diff out from under the house and get it across to Craft Diffs.

Pictures to follow.

Cheers,
Harv

[Harv]

Pulled the EJ block out, and stripped it down. Motor looked pretty good - 30-thou over, fairly clean bores. It had been stored under cover before I bought it, then the seller left it in the rain for a while (perhaps a fortnight). I had drained some water from the sump years ago and topped it up with oil. Some pitting on the inside of the oil pan, but mechanicals all above the tide mark and OK. One sump bolt boss had snapped off and was in the bottom of the pan - someone has tried to put a long bolt in instead of the short sump screws. No major drama, though the thread will want some sealant to keep the oil in now that it is not a blind hole. Some very large holes in the crank - presume they are balancing holes, though can't remember them being this large in the last crank I pulled out.

Took the block over to Duncan Foster to get it sleeved. Young machinist comes out to the car smiling, and identifies an EJ block by sight. He's done similar work before, and has an uncle with a grey. Feels good getting work done by blokes familiar with old Holdens.

Cheers,
Harv

[Harv]

Not sure if this is normal, a reco job, or a lightened crank (?).

Holes in the face and edge of the counterweight - holes are 1" diameter and 1.25" deep (rough):

Optimized-Counterweight end.JPG (528.59 KiB) Viewed 862 times

Optimized-Counterweight face.JPG (654.51 KiB) Viewed 862 times

Notched throws:

Optimized-Notched throw.JPG (597.62 KiB) Viewed 862 times

Cheers,
Harv

[FireKraka]

Not sure about the notched throws Harv but the holes do look like balance holes but yes look pretty big from the photo.
Neil

[ardiesse]

Harv,

I reckon the notches are index marks to define "zero degrees" when the crank was being machined in the factory. They seem to line up with nos. 1 and 6 crankpins.

b.t.w. - are the pistons and conrods from this block any good?

Rob

[Harv]

Pistons look pretty good. Very minor scratch marks. I was wrong though, they are 40-thou over (tops marked RP2075 .040 TOP 001 M). Rods look OK, and have been pop-marked at some stage to match the caps to the correct rods.

No lifters in the motor though... and stupid me gave my spare set away to Fraze. I need to do some research to see what aftermarket lifters are available. A wise old man once told me Falcon lifters fit - I must give him a call.

Cheers,
Harv