guard problem

[blue ute]

Is there any secret to refitting the front guards, seem to have a problem linning up the door/guard gaps, the gaps where ok (that I remember) when I removed them.
All I've manged to achieve is bark off my knuckles, paint off my guards & me blowing a fuse

[oldnek]

Blue,
Make sure your car is on level ground. Install the the inner pillar guard bolts first then start all the rest but leave them loose(not tight). Align the door gap first and lower guard to sill. Then align the top section near the windscreen. Close the bonnet and align top of guard to bonnet, then tighten the inner guard bolts near headlight. Once thats done tighten all the other bolts.
Regards John

[rosco]

Thanks John,
finally have found someone who has given detail to procedure...............
Not intending to remove mine for some time, but will archive this for reference.
frats,
Rosco

[parisian62]

Sounds like this is Tech archive material...? whaddya think?

regards
Stewart

[karsten]

im with you parisian62,, that gonna be real handy info over chistmas in my shed,i mite add something that i found was done in my car ,,, at the bottom of gaurd on inside where it sits up against the front pillar there was a blob of like bog, but there aint any holes or rust so i assume it was to space guard away from shell and to bring the guard out a little if its to far in

[rosco]

Hi Karsten,
I would expect you haven't taken a front guard off yet?
there is a little bit in it which you should be made aware of........... most of us have made this mistake - hopefully you won't once you read this.

From behind your footwell kick-boards on both sides, there are four/five bolts which hold the guard onto the "A" pillar - you access them with a socket and extension bar - this is the bit I want you to remember - make absolutely sure you do something to stop those falling from your socket on the way out into the cabin - they will drop down into the well - or a socket will, and are a drama in themselves to retrieve. You may consider as I intend to do on the next occasion, place a padded rag/towel etc down into that cavity to catch anything..............
This would, of course, be relevant on re-fit as well. When ever you are working in that vicinity, remove the kick boards and secure that cavity - I have dropped inumerous screws/ washers, nuts and anything else which I have been working on under the dash down into that "bermuda triangle" finally learned to fit something temporary in there trick.

You must also ensure that the rubber/neoprene "seals" in the cups of these guard bolts are in good condition - they seal out the elements from leaking into that cavity - I think you will understand that can only promote corrosion at the front of the sill. I must write something to give people insight into what can be done to make the very best of preserving the frames of our vehicles........maybe another in a similar fashion to the immobiliser project I have just about completed - the concept is that I'll announce it and make available to those who want it as a pm or direct email...........

As for the sequence to remove a guard - I will leave that one to John - I am very interested to learn if there is a procedure for this - I just unbolted and tried to carefully lift and separate (sorry ladies - that sounds familiar with an apparel undergarment) the guard from the skirt of the subframe.

You may be in for a bit of a shock when you get it off - now is the time to put years of extended life into your vehicle - try to plan for what can be done whilst in there.................

again - another two cents.......

frats,
Rosco

[karsten]

yeah i have the whole lot off already rosco go to my fb ek galery and into my post( karstens ek ) and have a bowpeap at the pic of my car mate and yeah i was real carfull i have for many years used the rag trick when pulling the heads of my truck and not wanting to pull of its pants for being a clumbsy fool and droping a bolt down tho big holes where the push rods come through,, yes we all learn from mistakes,hey mate