EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

[rosco]

You trying to win the bet?, Finny...

frats,
Rosco

[WayneXG95]

You trying to win the bet?, Finny...

frats,
Rosco

And bingo we have a winner...

[Finny]

Just couldn't do it.
Rosco, "OK" ???

[Finny]

Will continue hunting down leaks and finish my next major challenge.
I'll check the fluid levels and what is actually coming off under the car, but I'm thinking it's gearbox oil, and maybe engine oil also.

I was hoping NOT to be removing the engine and/or gearbox, but I need to stop the leaks.
Rear of the engine, still has a leak by the look of it.



Rear gearbox seal seem moist, but I don't think it's loosing anything there.



Bottom plate on the gearbox looks OK.



Clutch slave also looks OK, although I'm missing a cover or something.



Gearbox looks like most fluid is coming from somewhere need the selectors.







Haven't starting looking at this yet, and not sure what seals/areas can leak.

[Harv]

Finny,

The easiest way to hunt down whether it is the gearbox is to dip your finger in and sniff it . Gearbox oil is distrinctively stinky.

Both the selector and shifter shaft seals are easy enough to replace with the gearbox in-situ. The tailshaft seal is a bit more fiddly, but not insurmountable... just need to make sure you don't go heavy handed and crack the extension housing lip.

Cheers,
Harv

[EK JAY]

That's ok finny there factory grey motor / gearbox leaks there period correct

[Harv]

That's ok finny there factory grey motor / gearbox leaks there period correct

It there aint no oil under it, there ain't no oil in it

Cheers,
Harv

[parisian62]

Link to the video of it's drive.
Probably a little boring but you can hear it running well.
Turn up your speakers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5O_49uo ... e=youtu.be

Hi Adrian

A bit of a belated congrats from me. You did it!!! Sounds awesome. I bet you're grinning from ear to ear.

regards
Stewart

[Finny]

Still haven't quite finished the wagon, but hope to get a bit more done over the next few weekends.

Oil is definitely gearbox, have one seal for the selectors to replace, and will see how that goes.
Still don't have the doors aligned, but at least the drivers door closes again.
Time to bring out the check list, I'm sure I still have a lot to finish.

I also have a speedo that works great up to about 35mph. then it jumps wildly back and forward up to 100 and makes a squelching whirring noise.
Wonder if it just needs tightening or if I need a replacement speedo cable. or could it be something faulty at the back of the speedo ?

[rosco]

Keep going, Finny - just pick it off as you can, but try to enjoy it...

Speedo's - dastardly little blighters.... could be a number of things - but I'd first suggest taking a good look at the outer cable and check that it isn't damaged, that it isn't bent around something to tightly or crushed between something.

If that looks ok, undo it at the gearbox end and pull out the inner cable and check for kinks or frayed strands.
If you spin it by hand inside its outer cable - you shouldn't feel any binding... you will feel the strands rubbing against the spiral of the outer cable, but it shouldn't "bind".

I'd doubt that it would be the gearbox end unless the teeth are gnashing - easily checked by shining a light into the hole - the other end will be in your hands. As stated, unlikely - but easily checked before going deeper.

If it comes down to the issue being in the speedo head - it can be a very frustrating process. It will cost quite a bit to have it re-set and calibrated.... but it would be my final suggestion if you can't find a fix.

The speedo indicator works by magnetic draw. The cable spins the head and the faster it spins the more "pull" the magnet has on the cup of the indicator.

You might find that there is either a loose part in there, the cup is off-centre or something is binding take a good look at the inside of the cup for rust etc - and - check that there aren't any marks which may be causing that "squeal".

I know of one occasion when one of our members pulled his apart and found a dead spider in there - speedo went straight off the dial as soon as the car got to 20 mph.... fastest running spider known to man... like a mouse in a mouse-wheel...

To test the head, I'd suggest taking out the instrument cluster and simply spinning the input.

A variable speed cordless drill with a suitable piece of flexible wire shaped to fit the square hole will be a great little indicator if your issue is in the head assembly... a short length of excess bicycle cable soldered and filed to fit the hole would be a possible tool.
But don't stress the head and allow plenty of gentle flex so that you don't grind the head against the body.

You can spin it up from slow speed and keep it pretty much constant through a number of differing speeds..... if your speedo fluctuates or squeals - you'll need to go deeper - or send it in to be corrected - but, be warned "speedo specialists" charge an arm and a leg to re-calibrate..... modern vehicles have moved towards digital units with tacho-generators...... and finding a speedo specialist to remedy a mechanical unit will shortly be like finding a windscreen fitter for one of our old buses....

If you do decide to open up the unit - be extremely careful - they are very finely tuned and sensitive units. It won't take much to knock it out of kilter.... then you'll be off to the speedo shop....

Finally, if you do find the problem and fix it - check your speedo against a GPS/Navman/Garmin etc after re-installing..... it could be miles (pun intended) out - and will cost you tickets to the "Policeman's Ball"...

Please keep me informed.

frats,
Rosco

[Finny]

Thanks Rosco.
I have a spare speedo or 2, so if I find that's the fault, I'll just replace it. Not about to try pulling it apart.
Something is slipping by the sound if it. The only thing I don't have is a spare cable.
I might take the cable and the speedo out and test them out of the car.
I'll keep posting as things get completed.
Still not in that enjoyable driving position just yet.

[Brian Westlake]

Hey Finny. I put a few speedos in Fionas Lilac EK and the damned things all had the same symptoms. They would be alright till about 45 or so and then they would make a screeching noise and shoot up to 100 or so then back, up and down up and down. The end of the cable had worn and lost its square shape where it goes into the speedo. I just pulled it out of the speedo, squashed the cable a bit flat with pliers and screwed it back in. Perfect! This was years ago and still no problems. I got this one from Sunny Tim I think.
Tony RufNQuick.

[Finny]

Tried the squash the cable end idea, but it's still playing up, maybe a little better.

Have completed a few more items off the list.
Gearbox leak resolved. Only replaced the one seal from the selectors, and no leaks and no crunching gears.
Wasn't that difficult, just had to ensure the seal didn't get damaged or the area scored.



Also finished installing the sun visors and the front door and guard mouldings.
Had to drill new holes, as the doors and one of the guards were FB.









Also found that the steering seems to occasionally have a loose feel. Steering correction seem to be more than expected.
I've checked the front bearings (all good) and did a quick steering box adjustment. seems a little better but still get that vague feel and excessive correction needed.
Not an issue at 60 or 80, but could be an issue on the highway.
Mind you I wouldn't know the speed as the speedo is doing its push ups by the stage.
Slowing working through the outstanding items list.

Also wonder if anyone has cut / bent / reshaped any mouldings and how they did it.
I want to modify the two upper front door FB moulding so that end as a point.

[Blacky]

my speedo was doing exactly that - had it rebuilt and recalibrated last week , put it in this morning and did 350kms today and it is just like a new one cost me $220

[Harv]

G'day Finny,

Best bet on the steering is to get it up on stands, and have someone work the steering wheel whilst you check for slop all the way back from the road wheels to the steering box. Wiggle the wheel, watch for slack being taken up.

You can adjust the box up some more, though once you go too far you will feel the box get "crunchy" as the balls start to grab. The Rares rebuild kits are not bad, but you will need the column/box out of the vehicle to put the kit through. The Rares kit doesn't have the worm and race though (the old GMH kits did), so if they are badly flogged out it may mean a new box.

An obscure word from the wise: if you pull the column out, you will need to undo the bolt that holds the gear selectors onto the gear selector tube. When putting this back together, use a new spring washer, and make sure it is tight (it's a bugger to get in as you have to fight the selector tube spring. This one bolt is all that connects the gearbox to the steering wheel... if it comes loose, you have no gears. It is a mongrel of a roadside repair to get back in, and you are likely to need a tilt tray home. Don't ask me how I know

Cheers,
Harv