MeFB wrote:Hey, has anyone tried that new 'waterless' coolant that doesn't boil (therefore no pressure in the cooling system)?
Sounds like it could be a good thing for our old buses.
saw them use it on a show the other day the thing i was thinking though (me not being a mechanic) i thought it was heat that caused the damage not pressure when it comes to blown head gaskets warped heads, so it would still get hot just not boil
sometimes yor just better off shitting in yor hands and clapping
Thanks for all the help. The old girl has always run a little hot in the past but not to the extent that it is now. Hoses are all good, so I'm hoping that it is something relatively 'simple' such as the thermostat / cap / flushing. One thing for sure is that I wont be driving her much tomorrow This info has all been great, but I am not confident in doing this right, so I'll book her in and keep you all posted about how I go.
For the sake of 10 bucks I'd try a new cap, before taking it to any mechanic. Mine was that bad it would lose 1lt of coolant from the overflow just doing a 50km trip. The cap looked reassonably new, so I didn't suspect it was that.
If it turns out not to be the cap or thermostat dont just flush the radiator get it pulled apart and clean properly. You can bring it over and ill get it sorted for you.
bootlegger wrote:If it turns out not to be the cap or thermostat dont just flush the radiator get it pulled apart and clean properly. You can bring it over and ill get it sorted for you.
I brought a grey motor off a mate years ago so I could rebuild a hot grey while my car was still on the road as my daily driver, when we stripped to the block I thought I'd hot tank it to clean out the water jackets. Found out why this grey always ran hot (temp wise) when it was in my mates car, pulled the welsh plugs out and found the remains of at least two old rusty welshplugs in the water jacket
Looks like some Einstein must have accidently knocked them in and didn't bother to get them out
Got the car to the mechanic today...he's thinking gasket as the car has started to run rough when started the last two mornings until 'warmed up'. This would be water in a cylinder I guess, despite no condensation from the exhaust. Hopefully no lost welsh (welch) plugs in there! No matter what I hope shes fixed soon, hate being without my FB. Thanks also for all the help too..........and by the way, found this on Holdenpaedia :
"Brief History of the Welch Plug by Nevin Hubbard of www.hubbardspring.com A brief bit of totally obscure history that I am one of the few living persons who knows. My family business, established in Pontiac, Michigan in 1905, is the original manufacturer of the "Welch" plug. The Welch brothers had a motor car company at the turn of the century that was later bought by General Motors - the Welch Motor Car company. They would run the cars around Pontiac to "break them in." At that time core holes in the engine blocks were fitted with pipe plugs. During one of these run-ins a pipe plug backed out. In order to get back on the road one of the brothers drove a quarter or half dollar into the hole. From this they developed the Welch plug, some with the help of my Great Grandfather Martin Hubbard. They then patented the plug and the M.D. Hubbard Spring Company become the sole manufacturer of the Welch plug for the life of the patent. To this day we have the largest range of sizes available anywhere. So the Welch plug in origin is an American innovation and name. Best Regards, Nevin Hubbard M.D. Hubbard Spring Company www.hubbardspring.com "
It would be quite simple to do a head gasket leak test. Last thing you want is them tearing the head off if they aren't 100% sure it is the head gasket.
Boil the jug and pour some boiling water in a cup (no tea bag!) Pop in the thermostat and after a minute or so, get some long nose pliers and pull it out of the cup and look at it
It should have opened up. if it has, put it back in because it's alright. Pull off the top and bottom hose (from the radiator) If you have a compressor, let it build up and get the garden hose ready as well. If you have an air blower, wrap some rag around it to make it a fairly tight fit in the bottom outlet. then get the garden hose and fill the radiator about 1/4 and blow the compressed air up the lower radiator outlet and hold the air on for about a minute or so. The Shit sitting in the top of the tubes in the radiator should come out the top. This is usually where radiators are blocked. This is rough but cheap and usually effective. Don't get water on the power lead or compressor or you may get a shocking surprise.
I did this on my FB the other day and it seemed to work. I also didn't have to pull out the radiator because I'm lazy by nature.
Tonys Temperature Tonic.
It was actually two things! Thermostat was not working properly and the radiator has seen its last days....unfortunately couldn't be saved which is a shame as it was original. Still better the radiator than cook the engine eh? Should be back on the road tomorrow which will be good.
Good news. now you can try it on some of those hills. Like was mentioned before, don't wait for the light as it comes on too late, and it's not a water level indicator, more like an
I'm DANGEROUSLY HOT indicator (In my experience anyway!) Just check the water and look for the cap releasing water when the engine is running as this shouldn't happen. ( there may be a little dribble when you shut it off but I think this isn't too bad.
Tony.
P.S. I've just read my last 2 posts and they seem like JIBBERISH!
The old girl is back. Got to see the core of the radiator and it was really rooted. The housing for the thermostat had to be replaced because of pitting around the seal, so now she's running nice and smooth again after a tune up.
This info has all been great, but I am not confident in doing this right, so I'll book her in and keep you all posted about how I go.
