>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Trev wrote:I made all my brake lines with 3/8 then went to get the ends put on and they couldn't because the lines were too big, so I had to throw them away and start again with 3/16 line.
I'd check the fittings before trying to go too big.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>muza wrote:Hey Fingers, did you keep the original piece that the front handbrake cable screws into? went to fit the cable up you give me and mines missing!!
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????DOLLER wrote:Doing the same now. By the looks of all the previous posts 3/8 is the go.
I was looking at Stainless Braided line from the orient on Ebay but dont know about the quality. Might just go Stainless hardline all the way.
fingers wrote:>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>muza wrote:Hey Fingers, did you keep the original piece that the front handbrake cable screws into? went to fit the cable up you give me and mines missing!!
I will have one here somewhere mate ...........probably pull one off one of the donor cars down the back ........Give me a call when ya up this way mate.....Fingers
Mulcahy Rd Pakenham.fingers wrote:>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Trev wrote:I made all my brake lines with 3/8 then went to get the ends put on and they couldn't because the lines were too big, so I had to throw them away and start again with 3/16 line
I'd check the fittings before trying to go too big.
Where didya get your line and fittings mate...how hard was it to double flair the stainless .......Fingers
.
so I went to Coventrys and paid $17 a roll. Bought all new flare nuts , hoses and T pieces from Armadale Auto Parts , the fittings are about $2 each I think ? I am running HQ rotors and calipers up front and a '57 Chev rear end out back. 
fingers wrote:***********************************************************************************************************************************************************Cal wrote:I'm thinking white with red flash, boot, and roof
Thats sounds great mate ...an option I didnt consider ......anyone got a photo of this combo ...thanks Fingers
try Les at Betta Springs in dandenongCraig Allardyce wrote:fingers wrote:***********************************************************************************************************************************************************Cal wrote:I'm thinking white with red flash, boot, and roof
Thats sounds great mate ...an option I didnt consider ......anyone got a photo of this combo ...thanks Fingers
Hi Fingers, I can send you some pics of mine (as in my profile pic) if you still need it.
On the flip side, who did you get to do your rear leaf springs? I'm in Beaconsfield and am looking for someone local to get mine reset...maybe Dandenong.
thanks for the info blackyBlacky wrote:A few of our club members went in and bought a proper flaring tool - its a ripper , really easy and fast to use . i used an aftermarket chrome booster and master cylinder , ran a single line front and back to a T piece then to each brake. I went to a brake specialist to buy the bundy tube - I used mild steel by the way - and they wanted to charge me $80 a roll
This is what the flaring tool looks like - best one I have used
SC00BB wrote:fingers wrote:
2/ FB red sedan with white flash and maybe white roof ??? appreciate your opinions on this
more coming soon
Sounds good to me but I'm a little bit biased
great stuff fingers wrote:The green car gets a reprieve .it is going back to standard ...Have bought a body shell from jarvo .its a ripper shell but the sand blasting showed up every single bit of rust ...so it will need 4 floor replacement panels some work on the inner sills where the cross member buts into it ...in the rear quarter lower sections on both sides and while we,re there mini tubs ..at a quick glance I think 225 x15 should fit under comfortably with the extra 15 mm from the tubbing and a little bit of rust in the spare wheel well ....the doors are the best doors I have seen in a while no rust what so ever.. yep ...none ..same goes for the bonnet and boot ...saves a heap of work ..also I have obtained 3 other cars from all around the country for donor bits and about 4 cars worth of parts ....
Heres some questions ....I want the sleeper look
1.......what type of paint should I use 2 pack or acyrillic Laquer
2.......Seat material and style of retrim ......I,m thinking red and white vinyl in speed boat pattern ( similar to 56 Chevy )
3.......Carpet on the floors or original rubber
PS .....Please disreguard the dates on the photos ....mostly incorrect as some where taken yesterday and some this morning ....
im gunna have dreams about that disc brake front end, wet dreams, you are a lucky lucky man.
Heres my wish list ....
1/
Oops ....thinking out loud again
2/ FB red sedan with white flash and maybe white roof ??? appreciate your opinions on this
3/ 400 plus hp 327 sbc.. matched Edelbrock heads , manifold ,cam,lifters and timing gear..Harland Sharp roller rockers ... already built and dyno tuned and run in at up to 5500 rpm
4/A Southern Chassis Works coil over frontend ...Comes with an Engineers Certificate ....Commodore brakes up front... 9 inch LSD with BA discs on the rear
5/The chassis strengthen kit has been discussed with the Engineer and he approves of it in thoery .it will use 4 rails radiating from the rear spring hanger to the cross rails then other steel rail bolted on both ends using crush tubes and 3 mm plate inside any rails using crush tubes up to the Y in subframe ....I got the chassis rails and the waffle sections to go inside the rails for strength folded up locally here in Drouin ...and the photos show the preliminary fitting up ...the design also allows for a set of built in trac rods to
control spring wind up on heavy acceleration .The mounting of the trac rods at the front rear spring hanger will be 4 mm flat steel incorporated into the chassis rails and the rear of the trac rod will be mounted to the bottom diff and shocker bracket ...no slipper pads will be used ..any comments on this move will be much appreciated ..any mounting points using bolts will either be fitted wth crush tubes or blind nuts welded to inside of the chassis ........
6/ Steel 15x8 &*#@ rims on the rear and 15 x6 on the front ....
7/ The steering column is standard FB top section so an FB steering wheel will fit runs all standard indicator and horn wiring and a HQ bottom section including the collapsible shaft and column .......All made by George Windus from Bendigo and comes with an Engineers Certificate......xxxxy but worth it for peace of mind ....
8/ Two speed wiper conversion required for engineering ..........and utilising the standard wiper knob ...just a mention for all you knob collectors............Approved by my Engineer
more coming soon
must have had a few beers onboard when I did that 
). The local brake shop charges about $3 per tube end that they flare, and I figure with the amount of mucking around I do it'll come close to paying itself off over it's lifetime (also saves me getting upset when I want a line flared at 5pm on a Sunday afternoon). The good thing is that it will do both metric (say Commodore brake lines or Bosch fuel pumps) and imperial (early GMH) flaring - good for mucking around putting late model running gear into early Holdens 
. To get a decent quality kit from other suppliers I would have had to buy both a metric and an imperial kit, so the money was about the same all up. The MasterCool set has a broad range of sizes (about 6 sizes each for metric and imperial), will do single, double and bubble flares and will also do the GM push-on fittings. The dies in the MasterCool set are damn sturdy - blocks of steel about 1"x1"x1". The tool I got is hydraulically driven, so no "twisting, twisting, twisting" to roll the tube edges - hopefully less chance of splitting the tubing when I roll the ends on old tubes.
