Hi all,
Just in the process of upgrading the ol girl to HQ stubs, brakes on the front. The question i have is that i have seen people talking about 26P/43P 15inch rims etc but they had converted front ends for V6/V8's. Mine is the standard HR disk brake front end running a straight six and steering racks behind the cross member not in front. Will i still have to watch out for 26P's to clear or will the 43's be right as all i'm finding is 43's or mags that i can't find any guidance on...The diff will be a VN disc brake that i am altering to suit the rims as per plans i have seen on here...
Ta Pete
Rim ?
Re: Rim ?
Pete,
The 26/43P issue is mainly a drama when the front stubs are run with Commodore disks and wheels on a HR front end. From what I understand, HQ disks/rims are typically a lot nicer offset than the (very positive) Commodore ones. I'm no HQ stub expert though - plenty of the guys on the forum are running them though and should chime in.
You're not thinking about running Commodore wheels on HQ pattern disks are you?
Cheers,
Harv.
The 26/43P issue is mainly a drama when the front stubs are run with Commodore disks and wheels on a HR front end. From what I understand, HQ disks/rims are typically a lot nicer offset than the (very positive) Commodore ones. I'm no HQ stub expert though - plenty of the guys on the forum are running them though and should chime in.
You're not thinking about running Commodore wheels on HQ pattern disks are you?
Cheers,
Harv.
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Rim ?
Thanks Harv,
I was trying to keep the pattern the same but not sure of which way to go after all the notes on here i got a little confused. If its easier to go HQ front and do a 43P crustydore rear i will as cost is the big deal but will have to try and match rims without spending a fortune that's why i'm trying the diff myself instead of paying some so and so 1200 to 1500 to do it. Any options including diff great fully appreciated only reason for this upgrade is for future development to a VL Engine turbo combo. I'm based south of Brisbane so any references down this way or others to go to would be great if anyone has any.. 1
Pete
I was trying to keep the pattern the same but not sure of which way to go after all the notes on here i got a little confused. If its easier to go HQ front and do a 43P crustydore rear i will as cost is the big deal but will have to try and match rims without spending a fortune that's why i'm trying the diff myself instead of paying some so and so 1200 to 1500 to do it. Any options including diff great fully appreciated only reason for this upgrade is for future development to a VL Engine turbo combo. I'm based south of Brisbane so any references down this way or others to go to would be great if anyone has any.. 1
Pete
Re: Rim ?
Pete,
Some options:
a) run HQ stud pattern all around. You will need to have the rear VN Commodore rotors offset drilled for oversized wheel studs (do a search on here, or contact Blacky, the resident offset drill/oversize stud guru ). You can then use Chev or HQ wheels front and rear. Lots of offsets available in Chev/HQ wheels that should clear the front suspension. Trim the diff width to suit the wheels you find.
b) run Commodore stud pattern all around. You will need to do the offset drill trick on the front rotors. You will also need to run 26P offset wheels on the front to clear the suspension. Commodore mags and steel wheels are relatively cheap and common (more so than Chev/HQ). Again, trim the diff width to suit the wheels you find. You may need to have a discussion with your engineer though as this modification is technically not compliant to the National Code of Practice which requires that “the wheel track of passenger cars (or derivatives) must not be increased by more than 25mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model. This means that the rim offset must not be changed by more than 12.5mm.”. You would be moving from a 6mm positive HR rim to a 26mm positive Commodore rim i.e. a change of 20mm, more than the 12.5mm allowable. Queenslands Code of Practice may allow it (not sure – haven’t dug through it in detail: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/b3ea8 ... ctions.pdf).
c) run HQ front and Commodore back. No need to offset drill, but a lot harder to find a matching set of wheels.
If it was mine and I was chasing cost, I'd have the 26P discussion with the engineer first. If they will allow it, run Commodore front and rear (option b).
If they won't allow it, go option a) or c). If asthetics are a worry, find the wheels you love at a price you can live with first, then choose one of them.
Cheers,
Harv.
Some options:
a) run HQ stud pattern all around. You will need to have the rear VN Commodore rotors offset drilled for oversized wheel studs (do a search on here, or contact Blacky, the resident offset drill/oversize stud guru ). You can then use Chev or HQ wheels front and rear. Lots of offsets available in Chev/HQ wheels that should clear the front suspension. Trim the diff width to suit the wheels you find.
b) run Commodore stud pattern all around. You will need to do the offset drill trick on the front rotors. You will also need to run 26P offset wheels on the front to clear the suspension. Commodore mags and steel wheels are relatively cheap and common (more so than Chev/HQ). Again, trim the diff width to suit the wheels you find. You may need to have a discussion with your engineer though as this modification is technically not compliant to the National Code of Practice which requires that “the wheel track of passenger cars (or derivatives) must not be increased by more than 25mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model. This means that the rim offset must not be changed by more than 12.5mm.”. You would be moving from a 6mm positive HR rim to a 26mm positive Commodore rim i.e. a change of 20mm, more than the 12.5mm allowable. Queenslands Code of Practice may allow it (not sure – haven’t dug through it in detail: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/b3ea8 ... ctions.pdf).
c) run HQ front and Commodore back. No need to offset drill, but a lot harder to find a matching set of wheels.
If it was mine and I was chasing cost, I'd have the 26P discussion with the engineer first. If they will allow it, run Commodore front and rear (option b).
If they won't allow it, go option a) or c). If asthetics are a worry, find the wheels you love at a price you can live with first, then choose one of them.
Cheers,
Harv.
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Rim ?
I have a rods racks front end and I also ran into this problem.....easiest/cheapest way to get through roadworthy was +26P front steel rims, I also put in a VL Turbo complete rear end (brakes and all) unshortened. Only the saddle mounts needed to be welded into postition. Works a treat. And all the stud pattern, (commodore.) Keep in mind the rods rack front end uses HQ Stubs I think> ??