Preparing the car for a Nationals trip

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Trev
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Preparing the car for a Nationals trip

Post by Trev »

Keen to hear what people are doing to get ready for the Nationals this year :D .

Since last years Nationals I was planing to repaint the sedan but a new job and a move of house put a stop to that :thumbsdown: :thumbsup: :thumbsdown: :thumbsup: (bad, not getting the car done and good, new job and re-locate).
What I did get done before the move is the engine bay striped, welded up excess holes, new brake booster setup, auto column installed and floor shifter removed, painted engine bay and slung the motor back in :thumbsup: .
Over the last couple of weeks I wanted to get the car ready for the trip so I bought a new stereo and speakers for the back. Put in new quarter vent rubbers. Wired up a trailer plug. Pulled apart my trailer I bought to tow behind the sedan (so we can fit all our stuff in, growing family in size not number any more :roll: ) and replaced every nut and bolt and painted the springs. Put a new hitch on the trailer so it stays on the car (bonus).
And thats about it for now, it's great to work on my car again instead of the house :thumbsup: , Trev.
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parisian62
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by parisian62 »

New set of tyres, replace the points with pertronix, oil change, replace welsh plugs that are on the way out and if time allows a minor rust repair near the boot lid...oh and a tank full of petrol... :ebiggrin:
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Devilrod
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Post by Devilrod »

Basic service and a good clean and polish. Anything else will be a bonus.....
Dakam
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by Dakam »

Not much here - oil change, filters, plugs, cooling system flush, grease, polish, sit back and admire.

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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by bumper »

Pick car up! Drive it home, rwc and then transfer and reg in Vic! Then few personal touches to make it mine :D
Time is going to fly :shock:
wanker????
I'd rather consider myself as an "owner operator"!!

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rosco
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by rosco »

Good topic, Trev... and one which members might find jogs the minds of those making the run...

As regularly occurs - someone is going to receive the "hard luck award"... and it is usually as a result of a breakdown.

Just a couple of things I'd probably suggest for people to consider in the next month..

Take a good look at the condition of your tyres - and spare.
An oil and filter change goes without need of mention - so why am I..? don't forget to grease your front suspension AND the tailshaft uni joints.
Find a bit of dirt road and do a brake test - make them lock up and get out of the car to see that all four tyres have left skid marks.
If you haven't changed the master cylinder fluids wihin the past two years - flush them both with new fluid.
Check your wiper blades and operation - histoically and by location - this year's nats has the potential for need of them at least once.... the open plains and mountains in the west of Victoria are well known for strong winds and rain.... the south west even more so.
Spend an hour or so under you bonnet - looking... check any leads and terminals for corrosion - gently tug at leads to check that they are well secured. If any corrosion is detected - unscrew them and clean the terminals and contacts.
An air filter change is probably worth the expense if you haven't done one for a long time - or at least take the cover off, lift it off and tap it to see that it is relatively free of debris....

You might like to inspect your manifold nuts and studs, exhaust flange nuts or even the flange gasket... it is going to get hot on such a long run.....

Perhaps replace the fuel filter and take a peek inside the bowl of your fuel pump glass...

A flat battery is probalby not going to occur in running - and if one does eventuate - there will be plenty of others around to jump start... but check the electrolyte levels anyway.

For those running long distances, pop off the bearing caps and take a look at the front wheel bearings - even a re-pack is not out of the question - if they have been neglected for a number of years.

A few suggested spares would be fan belt, both radiator hoses, a thermostat and gasket, a set of points, one spark plug lead (the longest one), a HT cable, a carburettor needle and seat, brake fluid, a litre of engine oil, a plentiful supply of "flashlube" if you use it, either some coolant or definitely something to carry water in, some "rainex" just in case, a wire cutter and some lengths of lead, a roll of insualtion tape, FUSES, a clean cloth for wiping the inside of your windscreen - you can't bring your entire tool collection but 3/8th through to 5/8th combination spanners are probably worth the effort - don't forget a plug socket, jack and handle, wheel nut socket and T bar.... a couple of screwdrivers and a Phillips head, pliers and an assortment of cable ties..... think that's about what my "kit" comprises - but I also carry a multi-meter and 12v soldering iron... and containers of all types of connectors, small nuts and bolts/washers, - these are rarely ever looked at, but I know they are there - more often than not others know I carry them and ask.....

Whatever you do carry - you probalby won't need it, and what you don't - you will....

If travelling in multiple - the above can be apportioned out to spread the space issue.... but bear in mind that if returning solo or in different company or on different dates - the bits you need will be in the other cars.....

Don't forget your insurance papers, roadside assist tag, SPARE keys for all locks including fuel cap - AND your spare remote for any burglar alarm central locking installation, a small note-book and pencil (how many times have you found that blasted pen no longer works when you need it? - even if not from new),

First aid kit and any medications you may require (yes, I hear you MiniFB - but I am suggesting prescribed versions)... beer supply is plentiful - and there are precious few stretches of road where the contents of a fridge will be consumed prior to access to replenishment....

Don't forget a spare set of reading glasses... if you are like me - they have a habit of slinking away on their own.....

Don't forget to include your received entry forms, accomodation booking receipts and anything you might want to show/display/discuss during the event..
Mobile phone charger is one many leave at home.... the cigarette socket ones are great to leave in the glove-box (why do we still call it that?).
Along with your Navman or whatever charger, camera charger and a long list of stuff we carry when travelling....

If my suggestons don't fill your boot - you might also just get some clothing and supplies in - plus your detailing kit for the show'n'shine....

Trev has the right idea - a trailer.... we might just bring one ourselves - but if so, it won't be what you may expect....

frats,
Rosco
parisian62
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by parisian62 »

Wow! I think I should be cruising in convoy with you Rosco... :ebiggrin:

Some good advice there for sure.

Probably the most useful thing in my toolkit is the NRMA roadside assist number... :oops: :)
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bootlegger
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by bootlegger »

Id be adding to roscos list a spare radiator. I still dont know why I packed one for my recent adelaide trip but boy im glad I did. Id still be on the hay plain.
igor
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by igor »

We put a spare radiator in to go to Sawtell, thankfully did not need it. After being caught out on the way home from a Vic club run in Queenscliff we now carry a reconditioned alternator!
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by igor »

Nuh!! That's why we pay our RAA fees every year :lol:
rosco
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by rosco »

I am going to keep adding to the thread as I think of things.... a torch! - not everyone travels in daylight....
A wet weather raincoat and hat - umbrellas are great - but not when you need both hands to work on something - nothing surer than if you break down - it will be raining...

If you have UHF radio - the small hand held 3W ones are just perfect for observation runs and when running in convoy - our club uses ch 19.. it's usually free.
If your running on your own - ch 40 is my suggestion - "road" chat amongst the long haul truckies is a great media to learn of trouble/issues ahead... turn it off passing thorugh towns and in cities - if you don't - you soon will! unlikd mobile phones, use of UHF is not illegal - I wouldn't go giving the constabulary any impression you are using a mobile, however - but it is not illegal to use a micorphone on a UHF whilst driving.... the hand held unit, thus counts as a microphone....

If you are running with kids in the car - and you want to involve them in actually looking out the window instead of playing the gameboy, Ipod or whatever you are happy for them to stay at peace with each other using....... when you have a moment or two spare - type out a list of extra-ordinary things you expect to see on your journey... not too long a list, but one which consists of things not seen around every corner.... including the unique things you know you will see when passing through certain towns or locations...... (MiniFB - I can see a "spotto" list consisting many memorable pubs in yours - you might be able to add pix from your mobile phone even - I expect this will be a list you'll pass around and is limited to the blokes in the convoy you are travelling with - just in case you fall asleep and miss one)....

BP, when I was a kid - used to supply a fairly large range of different "spotto" cards.... first one to check all the items off wins...... what? you ask.... in my day - it was just winning.... but perhaps the temptation of what/where lunch will be pruchased, what music is played next might keep their attention to beyond the inside of the vehicle.... as parents, you should be thnkking of stuff like this...... I detest children travelling distances in vehicles who "see" nothing - other than what they are distracted from their electronic entertainment to see..... if you get them to circle a check box with pencil - you can rub them out and re-use on the return trip, if they prove successful.......
A trip such as this is an excellent opportunity for those approaching teens to learn to read maps... or at least be able to follow progress along your journey.... play dumb, and pose many questions with rewards and gratitude for the answers given..... goodness only knows - you might even avoid a wrong turn somewhere... or, if enough attention is being paid - make one and hope it is identified..........these have to be worth a substantail reward.....

that's enough for now - undoubtedly, I'll have some more thoughts before we all take to the road....

frats,
Rosco
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V8EK4us
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by V8EK4us »

Awsome lists Rosco...well done :thumbsup:

Well I will be spending the next few weeks on the White EK....... few tricks going under the bonnet (thanks to Bumper) a good service and general check over and might even get to wash the old girl....not Sue, the EK :lol: :lol: oh yeh... also have to fit the baby seat in for Georgia :D :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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EKfanPaul2
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by EKfanPaul2 »

Hi Trev,
Good topic.
Last year at Sawtell, as we know the rain was torrential. (checking the weather since, I doubt if it has ever stopped raining in Sawtell!!)

I noticed the floor / carpet was wet in my car. I believe the car is only as good as the floor it sits on - so as per my last 2 cars, I ripped the whole interior out to be sure its all cool.

i found that 1 spout from the vent chamber had a slight hole. Replaced both rubebr hoses.
The radio airiel hole was bigger than required with no grommet - letting in lots of water from the whel arch area

The car used to have seat belts so the guy that tarted the car up before I got it had a great idea. Just put carpet over it. (leaving the holes)

Also some rust repairs were ordinary as well leaving gaps

My good mate Don ended up welding up 18 holes. Most were man-made. Anti rust & primed.

That left the floor all fixed.
The carpet was absolute crap. It looked like speaker material. I bought some replica floor mats and put them in. Cleaned up the scuff plates and replaced one

3 door rubbers had the bottom part chopped off. (A favorite trick from the 1970's when these cars were worth nothing and the rubber on the bottom went - leaving the rubber hanging down)
This would have allowed water to get in and under my mats causing rust

3 rare spares rubbers , the doors off and a lot of help from Bill Reid and now she has new rubbers and is weather sealed.

All that work from a rainy nationals. However, these events test our cars and find things for us to improve.

paul K
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Devilrod
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Post by Devilrod »

Another tip is to drive them regularly, maybe even daily :wink: to iron out any potential bugs....
rosco
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Re: Preparing the car for the Nationals

Post by rosco »

Yes, Paul .... good, no! - great work!
Pity many wouldn't pay the same attention to the floor as yourself....

Whilst your at it, you might like to take a peek under the car - the sill drain ports especially - the "spot welders" GMH recruited from available overseas immigrants prepared to work for peanuts and paid appropriatley had a bad habbit of welding these ports shut when joining the inner sill to the outers..... I believe there should be four each side.....

You might also like to look at the two drain ports in the lateral sub-floor members.... rubbish from the openings above these under the floor sheeting piles up in the laterals..... I sealed all those openings up with butyl mastic many years ago....but made sure there was a drain port drilled into the lower end of each lateral just prior to where it reached the sills......

On your radiator baffle plate "sump" - you will find two 1" holes for access to the outrigger bolt heads... please, oh please EVERYONE! purchase some black neoprene flat plug caps from Clark Rubber and fit them.... the factory never did - and many lost sub-frames to rust because debris flowed into the frame through these holes and couldn't get out.... water, dust and stones quickly accumulated inside the sub-frame and rusted it out - more so on the left side due to kerb camber.......
There was a small hole in latter sub-frames at the end of the front section... but it quickly blocked up....

I also welded in a "drain pipe" to my battery box floor - it carries anything the battery spews out or runs in from the side skirt to the underside of the engine bay.... call me obsessive.. and eccentric ... it's what I do....

If you want to go just a bit further with the drain tubes from the plenum chamber - make sure there is a very small gap between the fender and the sill - a couple of thin rubber or fibre (not steel) washers will suffice - it just lets water drain out..... I would also suggest painting in some fishoilene whilst the two surfaces are apart.

When you wash your vehicle with a hose - send a bit of water all around this and flush it clear... along with above the head-lights and up into the upper rear corner of the guards. I have done this since 1972 after hand sanding these known trouble spots to bare metal and painting with so much paint that I believe my headlight "eyebrows" are almost a solid piece.....
Inside the front lower rear wheel-arches is also another crud catch and cake point... a hose sprayed around inside here also keeps the area free of any build up.

Don't forget your radio antenna lead grommet throught the side of the firewall/kick panel... I made certain that the aerial cable actually created a fall below the hole and rose up again... water running down the cable then ran to the base of the cable and dripped off - should the grommet ever fail..... I cable tied this to the guard support to stop it flapping in the wind....

There is a serious gap and front wheel-arch problem area if you aren't aware of it. There is an open cavity which collects crud just where the guard support meets the wheel arch.... the wheel arch is double skinned here - I would guess that most vehicles now have some serious issue which has already required cutting out and filling... if not - clean it out, spray in some fishoilene and in a few months of warm weather, seal it up with butyl-mastic....

You might also choose to look at your wiper pivot shafts - they sometimes can be a source of water ingress.....

Don't forget to check the two drain ports per side at the bottom the rear quarter panel.... dust/rubbish/carpet or sound insulation fluff usually finds its way to them - you cannot see into them from inside the boot... but a thin flexible blade from underneath will keep them open...... I driled two further holes in the rear beaver beyond the frame of the boot - inside the two braces supporting the rear panel - water does get in there and can't get out ... there is one drain port in that rear section under the filler (sedan) - but again, rubbish usually blocks this up....

With the rear seat base cushion removed - you will quickly find that anything which runs down from the rear window (sedan) will lay around in the front lower "sump" each side under the seat... I drilled two small holes here to drain this out.... don't believe it would of ever became a rust problem... but any water in a vehicle eventually promotes evaporation and condensation... just wait until you start pulling back your headlining..... any "crunching" you feel when you wipe over the hoodlining at the front and back where it reaches the window seal is - well, I think my words are strong enough......

I can remember many such "early" Holdens with the "hanging" door rubber under the door.... the next model - EJ was the first to have the rubber seals fitted to the door and not the scuff plate......

Another frequent issue often detected was the "rattle" of the front exhasut pipe clamp becoming loose.... not many people knew what this was... and for the the non-threatening issue it was - sounded like the engine/trans was about to come to grief..... such a simple fix for a very concerning noise.....
I wonder how many vehicles were sold because of fear of that noise beoming terminal.... and the used car salesmen made a substantial profit by either tightening the clamb bolt/nut or replacing the assembly..... and were free to on-sell an otherwise almost perfect vehicle at a very substantial profit.....

Sorry folk - digressing intolerably...

Trev's thread was concerning prep for the nats road trip - not for prolonging the life of the vehicle over time.......

frats,
Rosco
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