Hey thanks everyone. I'm learning new stuff all the time with my rebuild so if I can help others too and keep as many FB EKs on the road that's even better.
I had a play with one of my handle assemblies about 30 years ago..... and found that the scuffing on the button was caused by the push-rod bearing being worn.... you might like to look at those - and even better..... come up with something which ensures a deeper "boss" for the pushrod to work on...... just my thoughts...
I am going to buy new from Rares at $71.50 ea its a lot less hassle
Billy
BILLY BLACKARROW
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
I am going to buy new from Rares at $71.50 ea its a lot less hassle
I had my door handles rechromed with a whole stack of other stuff so the for the cost of a new spring and O ring it worked out cheaper than buying 4 new handles...
The barrel Walla Pete is referring to is for the station wagon rear tailgate handle...I don't think Rares sell these...
I don't have any experience with this barrel inside the handle issue with cars - but can tell you a bit about it with the front bootlid on a caravan.... grrrrrr.
The one on the caravan is probably similar in design as for mounting/retaining.
Water gets in and what doesn't flow into the boot, sits in a dam to rust the barrel to the body of the handle.
When I did get it out, I put a thin coating on the outside of it with Loctite 76769 silver paste - this stuff is brilliant for fitting dis-similar metals.... especially stainless into alloy... but, it costs a fortune.... one tub will probably outlive you though...
I fitted two "O" rings around the shaft to stop the leak - then ground out a relief drain (1/16th") to the base of the handle body.
I did pull out the barrel inside the holder on the boot-lid on my old bus.
I did exactly the same thing to it.... grinding a relief drain port and coating with 76769 but I did not fit "O" rings.
As Stewart posts - if you are going to have any re-chroming done... it may prove more cost efficient to throw it in with the bundle and get a locksmith to find a barrel to suit...... and have the lock key aligned with the rest of the car.