Harv's FED thread

[Harv]

Got too cocky. Had the injector on, worked out the linkage, and plumbed the fuel lines in stainless. Thought I was about done fuel wise. Figured I should set the barrel valve for leak-down (as a rough starting point for idle). Air did not come out as expected. The Enderle barrel valve internals are slightly more subtle than the diagram I drew on page 2 of the McGee thread. I got over confident, tried to plumb it up funky, and it was not right.

Pull it all apart, re-educate myself on the barrel valve internals, put it back together. Now it flows air correctly... just have to replumb the fuel lines

Worked out I am going to need dual return springs, one either end of the injectors. Its a split shaft, held together by an agricultural clamp. If I have only one return spring, and the clamp slips, I could get uncontrollable full throttle. The dual springs stick out a lot... need to think how to make them a little more subtle.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

I assume your throttle will be activated by force from the pedal on one shaft, and transferred to the other shaft by the agricultural clamp. Two springs will eliminate uncontrolled open throttle no doubt. The problem I envisage is if the clamp slips on application of throttle due to the resistance of the spring on the following shaft. As well as failing to rotate the idle shaft, if the clamp holds in the slipped position on pedal release, you will be faced with a similar problem, ie leading shaft jams open throttle. Possibly I am over thinking, but I experienced this scenario on my X2 carby setup. Solution was that the pedal connected shaft had a return spring and the second shaft relied entirely on the clamp, and idle set screw, of course. Maybe you could use a pretty light spring on the secondary shaft. I certainly relate to the fear of getting stuck on WOT.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Harv]

Hmm... more to think about. Hadn't thought about it sticking the other way. That WW clip is looking less and less acceptable. A clamp cross drilled to the two shafts would be good, but there is so much slop in the overall assembly that I cannot hard mount that way.. I need to be able to adjust (synchronise) the two shafts, using a feeler gauge to set butterfly opening.

Every time I think I'll get away with half-arseing something, I get a reminder that there is very little between me and the walls in this thing. John Force's crash last week was a good reminder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se-87igvCrI

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

F**k!


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[BS]

75 years old and still putting himself through that.

Funny you talk of sticking throttles. My brother sent me this the other day



It’s an instagram thing so not sure if everyone can see it but rather fitting to this discussion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Harv]

If it goes pear-shaped, I can use my right hand to toss the laundry, push in the fuel cutoff and switch off the magneto. That should kill it.

If I am passed out (like the dude in BS’s video) then it is harder. There is a battery master isolator on the rear of the FED. Looks like that is what the first responder was switching off in the video. With the magneto though that switch does not stop the engine in my FED.

It’s a good question for the IHRA tech guy - should that master switch cut battery, or instead ground the magneto? Could perhaps do both, but aiming to avoid any solenoid trickery if it can.

Cheers,
Harv