bonnet cable

[EKjimmy]

does anyone have photos of a bonnet release cable for an EK?
If not, has anyone adapted something off another car to use as a release cable.
I've had a look at the bonnet catch but can't really picture how the cable works, if I can figure it out then i'm sure any old choke cable could be used instead with the right sort of bits on the ends...

Jimmy

[Harv]

Jimmy, I can't access my EK at the moment (in storage ), but will try to describe the cable setup in it (no guarantee it is original, but it works and the fittings look period correct). It is a pull handle (kind of like a choke) that is bolted under the dash near the handbrake with a small bracket (i.e. hangs under the dash). The cable runs through the firewall and onto the underside of the bonnet - from memory it is clipped onto the bonnet. The cable goes onto the back of the bonnet lock, and has a small set-screw/clamp that grabs the cable outer sheath (coily wire). The inner cable has a cylinder of steel on the end of it (about 1/4" diameter if my memory is OK) that goes through a hole in the lock mechanism and stops you from moving the main bonnet catch (the bit you operate with your fingers from under the front edge of the bonnet).

Rare Spares has a cable for EJ/EH that looks very similar (at least from their website photos), and I intend to take a look at one next time I'm at Rares with a view to fitting to my FB.

Apologies for my crap memory , but hope it helps. If you get one working, please post pictures.

[EKjimmy]

Sounds exactly like what i was expecting, i'm aware of routing and knob position etc, just wasn't sure what was on the end, so i'd say you have an original one.And i'll check out the rares ones (didn't think they'd carry parts like that). Thanks for that Harv, once it's sorted i'll be sure to take some photos for ya.

Jimmy

[timbo.ambo]

Hi All.

I used the above info to fix my bonnet cable (Thanks Harv). When I purchased the car it was disconnected from the latch mechanism and just wrapped around the bonnet strut. So I thought I'd have a go today.

- Some WD40 along the outer spring covering made the inner cable move easier
- I threaded some clear plastic tubing along the spring so it didn't rattle against the bonnet struts
- I pulled the bonnet latch mechanism out (3 bolts) and gave it a good clean with toothbrush and grease/wax removing fluid ( ? expensive turps ?). It was filthy!. Then bolted it back in.
- I connected the outer end of the cable to the latch and screwed the holder tight (as described above)

I then came across the problem that probably caused the previous owner to disconnect it in the first place: when I pushed the release knob (under the ignition switch) all the way in, the inner wire popped right out from the spring at the other end, making it impossible to pull the knob out again. I got a mate to pull it while I centered the wire back at the latch so that it glided back into the spring covering. It was as if the inner wire was to long or the outer spring too short.. Both ends seem to be factory crimped so no shortening of the inner wire was possible (that I could see). So I came up with an idea: You can see in the last pic below that I wrapped some tie wire around a few times behind the knob to stop it pushing the other end out too far. any other more permanent fixes appreciated.

Cheers

Tim
(Grafton)

[Errol62]

I think the spring sheath end would originally have been threaded into a tube which the locking tongue slid in from your descriptions I gather this part is missing.

This mechanism would have to be the absolute Achilles heel of the FB EK models. A styling driven revision from the FC mechanism which was reverted in the EJ. Don't get me wrong. Style wise I think the FB EK wins. Would be interested to hear other owners experience but I would think there aren't too many who haven't had problems. Fortunately the curvature and weight of the bonnet keeps it seated.

I would be wary of the plastic tube melting or incinerating on a hot day. You could clip the sheath to the stays to prevent rattling.


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[In the Shed]

G'day folks,
Having driven my Dads FB for many years I was never lucky enough to experience the vast array of new features which the EK model possessed in the bonnet lock. Thanks for the pics Tim as I recently found one of these cable/knob set ups which I will eventually fit to my EK ute.

Regards
Stephen

[Rev Tex]

I'd hoped I might be able to use a generic EJ or EH cable to install a bonnet lock. But I can see the EK design was a different with a sleeve housing a solid pin. It looks like I'd have to make a sleeve arrangement also to get the clearance between the cable clamp and the locking hole.

Has anyone manufactured something like that to attach to a generic cable?

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[ardiesse]

You'll probably find that the hood release cable outer will be a close fit inside 3/16" ID brake pipe. Of course, you could rat an old choke cable outer for the sleeve (at the dash end). It's basically centre-punched onto the cable outer, so it will unscrew off the cable outer, and so it will screw onto the bonnet release cable outer in the same way.

Rob

[Errol62]

They are a bit of an orphan although tri 5 chev had same hardware. I’m considering trying to adapt the FE FC EJ-on type.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Rev Tex]

Thanks Rob, I've got another old Hood release cable and I'd wonder about using that Dash end sleeve, but I didn't think to try unscrewing it. I'll have a have a crack at that first and then worry about what to do for a pin.

[In the Shed]

Hi
Found an original cable and have taken some measurements as per picture. Hopefully that helps. Above the pin you will see a brass pin (originally from a book binder) that is identical to the original pin. You can have that if it helps. It can be silver soldered to the wire and will never move.

Send me a pm if you would like me to post, I can also centre drill it in the lathe for you to accept your cable.

Stephen

[Rev Tex]

Thanks Stephen,

That' a mighty helpful photo.

Today I took Rob's advice and removed the sleeve from an old cable. I chopped it don and screwed it to the other end of my new cable. I also manufactured a brass pin, which I'm going to soft solder on tomorrow I hope. I guessed my dimensions and I've come up a fair bit shorter than the original. I made the the pin 30mm long, but I'm hopeful it'll work.

Here's my current state of play:

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[Harv]

I learnt a lesson about altering a bonnet lock. The sleeve on mine was mangled, so I cut it slightly shorter. Fitted it to the wagon, all good.

Didn’t realise that if you pushed the cable in really hard, the brass pin could exit the sleeve. My engine builder pushed the cable in, the pin exited, and canted sideways a poofteenth. Could not retract cable… bonnet locked

Bumper off (driving lights in the way), indicators off, grille out, reach up and unbolt bonnet latch. On a 40C day, on white concrete out in the sun. Need pixie fingers to get the grille, one bolt flat at a time.

Cheers,
Harv

[Blacky]

I learnt a lesson about altering a bonnet lock. The sleeve on mine was mangled, so I cut it slightly shorter. Fitted it to the wagon, all good.

Didn’t realise that if you pushed the cable in really hard, the brass pin could exit the sleeve. My engine builder pushed the cable in, the pin exited, and canted sideways a poofteenth. Could not retract cable… bonnet locked

Bumper off (driving lights in the way), indicators off, grille out, reach up and unbolt bonnet latch. On a 40C day, on white concrete out in the sun. Need pixie fingers to get the grille, one bolt flat at a time.

Cheers,
Harv

Shoulda bought an FB

[Brett027]

Photo and tape if of use.

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